Invidia Cast O2 Housing (pics)
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
no problem, right now, i was concerned with a burning smell after doing the turbo work... only to realize, it's the anti-seize boiling 
that stuff smells GRRRRRRRRREAT.
that stuff smells GRRRRRRRRREAT.
hahaha...I did the same thing when I put on the ebay o2. Thought the liquid wrench burning off was an exhaust leak.
here is my O2 housing. its the Invidia. i had personally done the Columbia Coating done myself. not bad really, easy to do, no mess, and it works great!!
also had the exhaust mani ported and coated...
along with the turbo hotside 10.5
also had the exhaust mani ported and coated...
along with the turbo hotside 10.5
yes. as BBYBruno stated, it stretches the factory wire around the housing. most people just cut and splice the wires to make it work.
if you look at the first set of posted pictures on page 1, you can see where the factory o2 was mounted compared to the factory o2 housing. the invidia is in the throat of the housing on the other side. i used a plug for the invidia and left it at that. i can put in a wide band sensor there later.
there is a couple of things that i MUST mention though if you try to do this. when you weld the new o2 bung on, it must be pre fitted before welding. the factory "bump" will have to be cut, ground, or machined off as it will hinder you from the new bung install. once the new bung is welded on, the o2 sensor wires have about a 1/4 inch clearance from the block when installed. this can be corrected two ways. 1 is to weld the bung more towards the front of the housing(towards the front of the car when installed) 2 you can machine down the bung itself to lower the height so it doesnt sit as high off of the housing.
as a side note, i looked for a tap that was the spec for the o2 sensor and it was $48.00 from Grainger IF they had one in stock. m18x1.5 is the sensor size. you will also need to drill the hole bigger for the sensor, which may not leave you enough material to tap.
this is why i decided to buy two stainless bungs for $8.00 shipped from ebay, grind off the cast bung, and have it welded for 10.00. well worth the few dollars to have it in the right spot AND keep the factory heat shield!!!! no cops peeking...hehehehee!!!
if you look at the first set of posted pictures on page 1, you can see where the factory o2 was mounted compared to the factory o2 housing. the invidia is in the throat of the housing on the other side. i used a plug for the invidia and left it at that. i can put in a wide band sensor there later.
there is a couple of things that i MUST mention though if you try to do this. when you weld the new o2 bung on, it must be pre fitted before welding. the factory "bump" will have to be cut, ground, or machined off as it will hinder you from the new bung install. once the new bung is welded on, the o2 sensor wires have about a 1/4 inch clearance from the block when installed. this can be corrected two ways. 1 is to weld the bung more towards the front of the housing(towards the front of the car when installed) 2 you can machine down the bung itself to lower the height so it doesnt sit as high off of the housing.
as a side note, i looked for a tap that was the spec for the o2 sensor and it was $48.00 from Grainger IF they had one in stock. m18x1.5 is the sensor size. you will also need to drill the hole bigger for the sensor, which may not leave you enough material to tap.
this is why i decided to buy two stainless bungs for $8.00 shipped from ebay, grind off the cast bung, and have it welded for 10.00. well worth the few dollars to have it in the right spot AND keep the factory heat shield!!!! no cops peeking...hehehehee!!!
Last edited by badhabit90; Apr 29, 2007 at 01:47 PM.
Sure--thx to Badhabit90, his idea--so he gets the cheers. To start, take off the spart plug cap--unplug the 02 harness..Get a sharp razor blade and carefully cut the electircal tape seperating the wires...go slowly and unravel the tape as opposed to cutting it if you can...the tape isn't one long strip its several pieces and in several layers--cut carefeully and work from the plug end back to the gray plastic wire loom..unscrew the wire loom from the VC..cut the black tape around the plastic loom and remove the tape.. the plastic keepers around the loom need to be removed, turn them over and insert a small plastic screw driver between the two plastic pieces--this will seperate the lock and then remove the plastic keepers and set them aside. Pull the gray plastic loom off, its split across the bottom so just work it off. work thru the remaining tape to the far side of the VC. The 02 wires should now be exposed completely. Wrap them to the rt side of the VC...you should have plenty of wire now. The devil is in the details--so work slowly- took me approx 30min from start to finish..get good electrical tape and pull it tight, but cut it as opposed to ripping it to seperate pieces. Work back now wrapping the 02 wires all the way from the harness to the plug, then rewrap all the remaining wires, replace the grey loom, wrap it and replace the keepers to the VC. Wrap all remaining wires tightly and wrap the ends of the loom to keep water out... Good luck, Mine looks like stock now--simple and sweet. Regards.
Last edited by meckert; May 1, 2007 at 05:30 AM. Reason: finishing