more boost
You can force the turbo to do it with that device, but that doesn't mean the turbo can efficiently make power while being forced to do that. Above, we were referring to basic boost control with an MBC. When allowed, the stock turbo will naturally taper, because it cannot sustain those boost levels at high rpm.
Miguel, I know you said you spike 24psi. We refer to our boost as the point where we spike. That's the whole point. When I say I run 21psi, that means I spike to 21psi. We don't refer to the boost at say 5500rpm where it's already tapered a few psi. You said you run 24 and hold 22...that means you still have 22psi at redline. If that's not what you meant, then change how you refer to your boost. You should only be spiking to 22psi, not 24. I'm not sure why you gave me that yadda yadda...you've had many, many posts with problems on your cars. There was a time when the freeze plug recurrence was associated with you running too much boost on pump gas, too, but I only vaguely remember it. Lastly, no, your low traps are not because of your poor 60's, sorry.
Miguel, I know you said you spike 24psi. We refer to our boost as the point where we spike. That's the whole point. When I say I run 21psi, that means I spike to 21psi. We don't refer to the boost at say 5500rpm where it's already tapered a few psi. You said you run 24 and hold 22...that means you still have 22psi at redline. If that's not what you meant, then change how you refer to your boost. You should only be spiking to 22psi, not 24. I'm not sure why you gave me that yadda yadda...you've had many, many posts with problems on your cars. There was a time when the freeze plug recurrence was associated with you running too much boost on pump gas, too, but I only vaguely remember it. Lastly, no, your low traps are not because of your poor 60's, sorry.
This logs come in handy everynow and then.
Take a look. This is on hi boost on race fuel (110). On this log, I had a boost leak and my WGA was out of adjustment (opening to soon). Problem has been corrected now. As you all can also see, this is a true boost spike do to those problems and also the fact that I could not use the rpm off-set due to surge. Since I had the boost leak, the E0-1 kept trying to adjust and thus the surge. I had to be at allmost 98 percent duty cycle and I think that also made the controller wacky. Seems I can't use the rpm off-set at this boost levels. Still, take a look at how little boost I drop at 8000 rpms. Simply amazing.
You can use this as a reference in the future.
I am glad to be able to prove the stock turbo can hold boost. I can do it over and over again. Been doing so for about 1 year in all weather conditions.
Take a look. This is on hi boost on race fuel (110). On this log, I had a boost leak and my WGA was out of adjustment (opening to soon). Problem has been corrected now. As you all can also see, this is a true boost spike do to those problems and also the fact that I could not use the rpm off-set due to surge. Since I had the boost leak, the E0-1 kept trying to adjust and thus the surge. I had to be at allmost 98 percent duty cycle and I think that also made the controller wacky. Seems I can't use the rpm off-set at this boost levels. Still, take a look at how little boost I drop at 8000 rpms. Simply amazing.
You can use this as a reference in the future.
I am glad to be able to prove the stock turbo can hold boost. I can do it over and over again. Been doing so for about 1 year in all weather conditions.
Last edited by 04AWDTURBOEVO; Dec 12, 2006 at 07:21 PM.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
You can force the turbo to do it with that device, but that doesn't mean the turbo can efficiently make power while being forced to do that. .
Until recently, last few weeks, I had not been able to go that hi on boost.
Take a look at my last tune. This is what I am waiting for now to dyno and to run at the track. Let's hope no more little things keep me from doing it.
Last edited by 04AWDTURBOEVO; Dec 12, 2006 at 07:21 PM.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
You can force the turbo to do it with that device, but that doesn't mean the turbo can efficiently make power while being forced to do that. Above, we were referring to basic boost control with an MBC. When allowed, the stock turbo will naturally taper, because it cannot sustain those boost levels at high rpm.
Miguel, I know you said you spike 24psi. We refer to our boost as the point where we spike. That's the whole point. When I say I run 21psi, that means I spike to 21psi. We don't refer to the boost at say 5500rpm where it's already tapered a few psi. You said you run 24 and hold 22...that means you still have 22psi at redline. If that's not what you meant, then change how you refer to your boost. You should only be spiking to 22psi, not 24. I'm not sure why you gave me that yadda yadda...you've had many, many posts with problems on your cars. There was a time when the freeze plug recurrence was associated with you running too much boost on pump gas, too, but I only vaguely remember it. Lastly, no, your low traps are not because of your poor 60's, sorry.
Miguel, I know you said you spike 24psi. We refer to our boost as the point where we spike. That's the whole point. When I say I run 21psi, that means I spike to 21psi. We don't refer to the boost at say 5500rpm where it's already tapered a few psi. You said you run 24 and hold 22...that means you still have 22psi at redline. If that's not what you meant, then change how you refer to your boost. You should only be spiking to 22psi, not 24. I'm not sure why you gave me that yadda yadda...you've had many, many posts with problems on your cars. There was a time when the freeze plug recurrence was associated with you running too much boost on pump gas, too, but I only vaguely remember it. Lastly, no, your low traps are not because of your poor 60's, sorry.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
You can force the turbo to do it with that device, but that doesn't mean the turbo can efficiently make power while being forced to do that. Above, we were referring to basic boost control with an MBC. When allowed, the stock turbo will naturally taper, because it cannot sustain those boost levels at high rpm.
Maybe he forgot that your car has already run 11.84. He should be learning from you. Jajaja!
t.e.s. I suggest you do a quick search and lookup somewhere in the threads that talk about ecuFLASH. I believe Dynoflash is going to start doing E-Flashes soon so you wont necessarily need a tuner. You can just email Al and then he can email you back a flash based on your mods and you just upload it into your ecu on your own. I believe you can get the cable to connect your laptop to your ecu at www.openecu.net (.com?). I dont beleive Al started doing it yet, but it should start soon. I suggest you do that if there's no way you can get flashed otherwise.
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Is the "12 second drag race expert" trying to school you again Manie?
Maybe he forgot that your car has already run 11.84. He should be learning from you. Jajaja!
Maybe he forgot that your car has already run 11.84. He should be learning from you. Jajaja!

Back to the question about the stock fuel pump and stock turbo at high boost from the original log. The stock pump on stock wiring can NOT keep up with the stock turbo. With a rewire however it is just adequate. The stock wiring would only allow the stock pump to support 35 lbs/min or so, which can be done at relatively low boost (~16 psi IIRC). This is assuming a target AFR of 11:1 by the way. At 42 lbs/min AFR could go no richer than 12.5:1. You'd be surprised how many EVOs are running this way. I did for some time, and didn't knock, but that doesn't mean it's right.
With a rewire, the pump will mathematically support 44 lbs/min at ~21 psi (redline max boost in most cases), and I run at 42-43 lbs consistently and the pump keeps up. The rewire done the traditional way will defeat the duel voltage pump circuit, but on a stock pump I can't believe this would be much of an issue. Having idle/cruise fuel trims shift 2-3% would certainly be better than risking the motor at WOT, in my humble opinion.
Edit> If there is enough interest to justify the time it would take, I could pull together the data the illustrates this point (no, I don't just make this **** up
).
With a rewire, the pump will mathematically support 44 lbs/min at ~21 psi (redline max boost in most cases), and I run at 42-43 lbs consistently and the pump keeps up. The rewire done the traditional way will defeat the duel voltage pump circuit, but on a stock pump I can't believe this would be much of an issue. Having idle/cruise fuel trims shift 2-3% would certainly be better than risking the motor at WOT, in my humble opinion.Edit> If there is enough interest to justify the time it would take, I could pull together the data the illustrates this point (no, I don't just make this **** up
).
Last edited by kjewer1; May 18, 2006 at 05:17 PM.
Originally Posted by PANGES
t.e.s. I suggest you do a quick search and lookup somewhere in the threads that talk about ecuFLASH. I believe Dynoflash is going to start doing E-Flashes soon so you wont necessarily need a tuner. You can just email Al and then he can email you back a flash based on your mods and you just upload it into your ecu on your own. I believe you can get the cable to connect your laptop to your ecu at www.openecu.net (.com?). I dont beleive Al started doing it yet, but it should start soon. I suggest you do that if there's no way you can get flashed otherwise.
ok im new here and new with the evo got it only few months.. i come from the scooby world
can u plz give me Al's Email?
thanks alot
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