Clutch pedal adjustment made a big difference why?
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: C.A Honduras!
Clutch pedal adjustment made a big difference why?
well here is what happen today i went and did a 6500rpm dump on my clutch pedal and all i got was a slipping clutch so what i did was to adjust the clutch pedal lower and then went to try it again 6500rpm dump on my clutch and all the 4 tires broked loose
does this mean that when you feel your clutch slipping just ajust the pedal lower??
i have made a search and some say that it just moves the engagment point blablabla but whats the truth to it??
also i went at 2500rpm rolling in 5th gear and i stomped the gas pedal and when full boost came at 3500rpm everthing was fine revs didnt jump so i think that when i feel the clutch starts to slip i will adjust the pedal lower but i want to hear opinions on this!
see yaa
does this mean that when you feel your clutch slipping just ajust the pedal lower??i have made a search and some say that it just moves the engagment point blablabla but whats the truth to it??
also i went at 2500rpm rolling in 5th gear and i stomped the gas pedal and when full boost came at 3500rpm everthing was fine revs didnt jump so i think that when i feel the clutch starts to slip i will adjust the pedal lower but i want to hear opinions on this!
see yaa
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: C.A Honduras!
ok so i went to mitsu dealer to get some technical info on the clutch pedal adjustment
when adjusting the clutch pedal:
1st you must measure the clutch pedal height you measure from the stomper on the firewall to the center of the pedal it must be between 7.9-8.2inches if this not ok then adjust the rod behind the clutch pedal.
2nd you must measure the clivis pin of the pedal it must be 1-3mm if not correct adjust the rod behind the pedal!
3erd when steps 1 and 2 are ok you must know verify the following:the distance between the stomper of the firewall and the clutch pedal stomper must be 4.5inches or more and you must verify the freeplay on the clutch it must have a measurment between 4-13mm if steps 3 and 4 are not correct then its either air in the clutch system or a faulty clutch disc!
when adjusting the clutch pedal:
1st you must measure the clutch pedal height you measure from the stomper on the firewall to the center of the pedal it must be between 7.9-8.2inches if this not ok then adjust the rod behind the clutch pedal.
2nd you must measure the clivis pin of the pedal it must be 1-3mm if not correct adjust the rod behind the pedal!
3erd when steps 1 and 2 are ok you must know verify the following:the distance between the stomper of the firewall and the clutch pedal stomper must be 4.5inches or more and you must verify the freeplay on the clutch it must have a measurment between 4-13mm if steps 3 and 4 are not correct then its either air in the clutch system or a faulty clutch disc!
Going lower puts it closer to engagement at rest, and shortens the distance. Basically, your clutch is almost worn out, and you are playing catchup. Before too long, you will be on the rivets and won't be able to adjust it further.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: C.A Honduras!
yep mitsu tech says you cant go lower then 4.5inches from the stomper of the firewall to the stomper of the clutch pedal, a freind of mine went as low as 4inches and his clutch lasted a lot but had problems getting locked out when changing gears!
i have 11000miles on my stock clutch and i have really mistreated it,i have done a lot of racing but i will change it when it gives up when the car is rolling i want to know how much it lasts!
i think i will buy the exedy organic single disc they say its like a stock clutch!
warrtalon how is your exedy hanging up how many mile do you have in it?
i have 11000miles on my stock clutch and i have really mistreated it,i have done a lot of racing but i will change it when it gives up when the car is rolling i want to know how much it lasts!
i think i will buy the exedy organic single disc they say its like a stock clutch!
warrtalon how is your exedy hanging up how many mile do you have in it?
Adjusting to a lower engagement point does not make the clutch hold any better once engaged. It does not increase the torque capacity of the clutch. All you are doing is increasing the free play on the adjustment rod before it engages the master cylinder. The system is not under load until you push on the pedal. However, it may seem to hold better while it is engaging for a couple reasons.
1. The amount of fluid that is restricted through the restrictor pill is reduced so the affect of the restriction may be less severe. If you just take out the restrictor it will prevent the slow engagement.
2. When you adjust the engagement point lower your foot is still trained for the clutch to engage higher so there is more chance for the clutch to engage sooner. Once engaged the clutch holds more power than while it is engaging. It is better to retrain your foot than adjust the rod to a lower engagement point.
The real problem with lowering the engagment point causes inadequate clutch release and potential transmission damage (namely syncronizers).
1. The amount of fluid that is restricted through the restrictor pill is reduced so the affect of the restriction may be less severe. If you just take out the restrictor it will prevent the slow engagement.
2. When you adjust the engagement point lower your foot is still trained for the clutch to engage higher so there is more chance for the clutch to engage sooner. Once engaged the clutch holds more power than while it is engaging. It is better to retrain your foot than adjust the rod to a lower engagement point.
The real problem with lowering the engagment point causes inadequate clutch release and potential transmission damage (namely syncronizers).
This is funny cause when I picked up my car I noticed the clutch did not grab until way up top. When I took the car back to my work and was looking underneith the car on my rack, I lowered down the car and immediatly adjusted the pedal.
I set mine so it starts to engage just a fraction past center (i like it to grab low). I have speed shifted it a few times and everything feels great
I set mine so it starts to engage just a fraction past center (i like it to grab low). I have speed shifted it a few times and everything feels great
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: C.A Honduras!
ok ACTman but please explain why did this happen to me i launched the car at 6500rpm and i dump the clutch pedal after doing it the clutch sliped very bad, then i adjusted the clutch pedal a little lower and i did the same thing dumped the clutch at 6500rpm and the clutch really grabed i even bogged down the car??
thanks
thanks
It could have been any number of things. If your clutch was already hot from driving it could have slipped. When you adjusted it was the car cool or had you been driving it hard right before you modified the engagement?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: C.A Honduras!
no i wasnt driving any hard at all in fact i was waiting my turn at the track to launch so the car was cool,5 minutes after the first launch i ajusted the cluthc pedal down and it grabbed
Originally Posted by jrsimon27
ok ACTman but please explain why did this happen to me i launched the car at 6500rpm and i dump the clutch pedal after doing it the clutch sliped very bad, then i adjusted the clutch pedal a little lower and i did the same thing dumped the clutch at 6500rpm and the clutch really grabed i even bogged down the car??
thanks
thanks

Let me elaborate further on the earlier post. Once again the adjustment doesn't make the clutch hold more power. When your foot is not on the clutch pedal, the clutch is doing the same thing regardless of the adjustment. It just makes your foot operate the clutch at a different point. The clamp load is the same and the friction is the same so the torque capacity is the same.
The only thing that is changed is at what point the clutch engages in relation to your foot. When you are launching at 65K, you are probably holding the throttle at about 1/4 of the way down (if that) until you launch. You have to "time" when to mash the throttle down to the floor with your right foot with how you lift your left foot off the clutch (unless you want to stall). If your foot is accustomed to the timing with the clutch engagement point high, then when it is lowered, the engagement is going to seem more "grabby". This is because the static friction of the clutch is higher (clutch locked up) than the dynamic friction (slipping friction) of the clutch. You are transitioning from dynamic to static at a earlier point compared to where your right foot is as it is mashing the throttle.
It is the same reason a person tends to stall when the clutch pedal is engaging lower or tends to slip when the clutch pedal is engaging higher. The driver is anticipating when the clutch is going to grab and gets it wrong.
The restictor in the hydraulics also may be complicating matters too. If you are launching with your clutch foot completely to the floor in both cases, then the amount of fluid in your clutch hydraulics that is being restricted is different. This is going to affect how fast the clutch engages. If the clutch is engaging slower, then is gets hotter, possibly overheating, and therefore holds less power.
I hope that clears things up a bit.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: C.A Honduras!
The restictor in the hydraulics also may be complicating matters too. If you are launching with your clutch foot completely to the floor in both cases, then the amount of fluid in your clutch hydraulics that is being restricted is different. This is going to affect how fast the clutch engages. If the clutch is engaging slower, then is gets hotter, possibly overheating, and therefore holds less power.
actman this is what most likely happened to me! but i did dump them the same way
thanks
actman this is what most likely happened to me! but i did dump them the same way
thanks
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