ARPs or with cams or not?
The only reason you would need studs is if you have a bad tune.
The stock bolts and head gasket are very strong as long as they aren't abused.
350WHP road race tune stock junk.
The stock bolts and head gasket are very strong as long as they aren't abused.
350WHP road race tune stock junk.
It's all about piece of mind...if you're getting cams installed you might as well add the ARP studs at the same time. I trust what I was told by AMS before I trust a bunch of keyboard knuckle busters.
The only reason you would need studs is if you have a bad tune.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
Knock is much more likely to stretch a stock bolt, and all that takes is a bad tank of gas no matter how good your "tune" is
In my humble opinion the stock stretchy bolts are just too much of a liability.
In my humble opinion the stock stretchy bolts are just too much of a liability.There are many things that can cause knock besides the tuning. Why take the risk? The stock stretchy bolts are not strong by any means! This has been proven for years on the 2Gs, which use similar bolts (wouldn't surprise me if they are exactly the same). While avoiding knock is the best way to keep the stock bolts happy, it's not the way I like to do business on a regular basis. Some poeple get lucky. I'd rather do it right purposely than hope I stay "lucky"
Okay....point taken....but if you say do head bolts then I suggest actually pulling the head instead of doing one bolt at a time. If you are going to do it right ..... do it right.
I agree wholeheartedly with that as well. It's so easy to pull the head on these cars, I can't see a good reason not to. It's only a couple hours work if you don't need to do a tbelt job, and it's a good chance to clean off the piston tops while you're in there
(mine had heavy deposits even at less than 20k miles).
(mine had heavy deposits even at less than 20k miles).
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