Went to Englishtown tonight.
Here's a list of my mods, and 1/4 mile times.

2.5" test pipe (stock downpipe and exhaust pipes/muffler)
K&N FIPK from '95 Talon
Greddy BOV
Hallman boost controller (20psi)
SAFC2 (street tuned, with numbers from a fellow member of this forum)

Car has never seen a dyno. I don't have a wideband O2 or EGT.

1st run.
13.214 @ 103.54mph
1.948 60 foot.
Dumped the clutch at 6500rpms. Blazed the front tires.
Temp was 83 degrees.

2nd run.
12.847 @ 106.32mph
1.842 60 foot.
Slipped it out fast at 6200rpms.
Temp was 74 degrees.

3rd run.
12.710 @ 105.22mph
1.793 60 foot.
Slipped it out REAL fast at 6100rpms.
Temp was 63 degrees.

These cars are quick if you can drive them right.
From the drag strip tonight, I think the best way to launch these cars is to keep tapping the throttle, holding it at hair over 6000rpms, and slip the clutch out fast on the launch. Dump it and it'll spin. Slip it slow, the clutch might burn. Shifting over 6900rpms is a waste.

Have videos and timeslips. Don't know how to post them.

I think with a full 3" turbo back exhaust, and a clutch, this car will really fly. Fun fun fun......

 

Impressive! Great times on such a small amount of mods.

You can upload your videos and pix to imagestation.com but you'll need to open an account. It's free sooo...

btw... how do you like the hallman bc. Any spikes? Held boost all the way to redline?

Lastly, what were your shifting points. Just curious.

 

damn!
some of you drag-racers need to put on a clinic for us rr/auto-x guys. nothing beats tight & fast corners, but doing 12s on a mostly stock evo would be tons o fun!

 

Excellent times!!! I imagine that there is even possibly more in your setup if you were had a datalogger/WB02 or were able to dyno tune the car

Congrats on kicking ***!!!

I wonder what your car would run with a full 3" turbo back exhaust and intercooler piping upgrade???

Are there many "hoses" on the stock IC piping set-up??

 

The Hallman boost controller works great. Holds boost well. No spikes or anything. I have the new style one. It was $100. Boost does fall off like 1psi or so at around redline. I'm thinking it might be the stock exhaust....

I shift from 1st into 2nd at 6800 to 6900rpms.
All other gears I shift at around 6900rpms.
My 13.2 run, I shifted at 7000. No power there.

I think there's definitely more in this car, with just what I have. I'm sure tuning would make a difference, because I do feel the car running a little "fat" or whatever in the midrange. Just some cleaning up of the fuel maps would do me nice.

Exhaust should help the car out a bit, but I'm thinking that the stock exhaust isn't all bad. 12.7....

I ran on pump gas (from Wawa, 93 octane), and on stock tire pressure. It was great. Just drove to the track, tech'd in, lined up and ran. No swapping tires, adjusting tire pressure or anything. Ran it the way I drove there, with tools and stuff in the trunk.

About the stock IC piping setup, I think it'll do fine until you run really high boost. Everything seems to be holding up well. pipes aren't shooting out all over the place or anything.

The whole clutch thing scares me a little bit though. All that torque has to go SOMEWHERE if tires aren't blazin....

 

Pipes shooting off or commonly known as "blowing an IC pipe off" is not really a concern... I was just wondering if you or anyone knew how many "coolant hoses" that are used as "IC hoses" are on the EVO?

Upgrading your IC piping to metal over the factory "rubber/coolant hoses" is a big upgrade... that is why I am asking if there are many "hoses" that are not metal on the EVO?

 

Nice runs.

 

Nice runs Incoqnito, your conclusions on launch and shift points (6900rpm and any thing above looses hp) are comparable to my experience at the track. My style of launching is similiar except not as high of rpm (5500-5700 vs. your 6100), but that may have been because of the warmer track surface (59 vs 63-83 degrees). How did your 1-2 shift feel compared to 2-3 and 3-4. Would you post your 1/8 mile ET and MPH? It would help seeing what part of the track you were quicker (1st or 2nd half). Thanks for posting your trip to the track.

 

Turboniam, basically every sharp corner on the IC tract is a reinforced rubber tube (inner part looks like a radiator hose, but has a fabric mesh outer shell bonded to it). The longer stretches are all metal, but that still leaves 5 or 6 rubber pieces in there.

 

Incognito, email me the videos and pictures and I'll host them for you.

 

Here is what my time slips looked like...

1st run...
R/T .619
60' .1.948
330' 5.468
1/8 8.432
MPH 82.51
1000 11.028
1/4 13.214
MPH 103.54

2nd run...
R/T .557
60' .1.842
330 .5.307
1/8 8.198
MPH 84.45
1000 10.721
1/4 12.847
MPH 106.32

3rd run...
R/T .608
60' 1.793
330 5.221
1/8 8.087
MPH 84.75
1000 10.598
1/4 12.710
MPH 105.22

Silencer, I did read your post before, and yes, shifting past 6900rpm reall doesn't do much. If anything, it loses power.

I kinda wish it was a little bit coller, because turbo cars like the cool weather.

Next time out, I might try to launch between 5800 and 6000rpms. I'm thinking the car might bog a little bit, but who knows. Track conditions were decent last night. On my 3rd run, I think I was maxed out, as far as traction, for this car, the way it sat. I didn't do tire pressures at all. I'm sure if I took a few pounds of air out, the car would have seen lower 1.7 60 foots. From what I remember, Pruven's black Evo hit 1.72. As for shifts, the 1/2 shift comes somewhat quick, but I came out of an Integra Type R, with VERY short gearing, so it's not a problem. In the Evo, I just launched the car, waited toll everything settled down, then shifted at around 6800rpms or so (1st to 2nd). 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th, I shifted AT 6900rpms. The 1/2 shift goes in so quick that the car doesn't shift it's weight. The 2/3 and 3/4 shifts feel good, but the 1/2 feels better. Much more linear.

Turbonium, I was having problems with one of the pipe joints blowing off, but it;s my fault though. I am running a universal aluminum flange for the Greddy blow off valve, and the inlet diameter is 2". The stock hose for the BOV is 1 1/4, so I used a bull**** reducer from Home Depot to make the thing work. It's regular rubber, not silicone. For a while, it kept blowing apart. Now, I put a new rubber piece in there, Krazy glued it to the flange, and used a T Bolt clamp. Seems to be holding up well. This weekend I'm getting a pipe welded to the flange. Doing it the correct way. I should have just gotten the Greddy BOV flange for the '95 Eclipse, but nobody stocked it here.

 

Exactly the sort of information I was hoping to find. I am going to try and make a test & tune this weekend and need to learn how to launch this car. Of course things are going to be a little different for me I think...my racetrack is at 6200' and its going to be pretty cool..40-50F I think...at BEST. How were you using your IC sprayer when you were at the track? Putting any other fluids in there instead of the windshield wash?

-Bedlam

 

Windshield washer fluid, not me. I used distilled water and left mine on auto. How about it Incoqnito?

 

I don't quite understand by dumping the clutch.. can you explain to me more??!? I just let go the clutch very quick around 6k... what do you mean by then dump it and/or slip it?!?!?!



thanks!!

 

I have used windshield washer fluid in my IC sprayer (because it was snowing outside. Didn't want the bottle to freeze. Right now, and last night, I have Poland Springs water. Distilled water is probably the best, because it's clean.

On my runs, I hit the IC spray button on manual for like 5 seconds as I'm pulling up to the staging lights, then leave it on auto for the whole run. Honestly, I think this IC spray thing is a gimmick. I think the only way it'll really cool down the IC is if we put alcohol in the bottle. I think Alcohol can dissipate heat quicker than water, but it's dangerous, because the exhaust manifold and turbo aren't far behind the intercooler (maybe I'll try it out though).

Dumping the clutch is pretty much popping your foot off the pedal. The car will launch forward and spin tires. You get decent launches that way.

Slipping the clutch out is revving the car, and letting the clutch pedal out as quickly as possible, but without letting the tires spin. If you get this right, you should launch real hard, without bog, and without tirespin, and be in boost with rpms pretty high as soon as the pedal is up. This WILL kill your clutch.

Here are links to the timeslips...

1st run...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...5/fc52b811.jpg

2nd run...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/fc52b810.jpg

3rd run...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/fc52b812.jpg