I've searched and read all the head gasket threads so I have some background. I'm in Iraq so this is long-distance fixing at its worst. I'm coming home soon and have an appointment for install/tune of SMC alky. I plan to crank the boost up to high 20's and want to make sure the engine is healthy enough to take it. I have about every other bolt on with stock turbo.

The car drives fine, no white smoke, oil/water is clean. I'll run a compression test but I'm sure it will be fine. But it does have the dreaded oil leak all around the head gasket. (dealer told my girlfriend its "blown" and needs replacing...I'm not buying it) I bought the car with ARP headstuds installed.

How difficult is it to check the tq on the studs to 85lbs? I'm having cam gears installed, would that be a good time? Will replacing the head gasket (yikes) eliminate this leak? Will it get worse and eventually blow?

If the head gasket job is thousands of dollars in the guts of the engine, I'd rather put it off until my inevitable rebuild in the next couple years. In the meantime just wipe up leaks? Is this an ok plan?

And if I dive in on the headgasket change, is there anything I can add to the new stocker to reduce leaking? Some RTV type goo or something? Will I need NEW headstuds or can I keep the same ARP's? Is there an aftermarket gasket that is better? Thanks guys!

 

Not difficult to check the torque. If it is blow you can easily tell. If you are doing cam gears I would do cams too if it already hasnt been done.

To pull the head off is quite easy actually. The way I would do it is take the whole thing off with the both manifolds on. So take all the sensors off, then unbolt the exhaust manifold to the turbo and 02housing, then remove the uicp off of the intake assembly, then all you have to do is remove the head bolts connecting the head to the engine and wallah! done

Takes me about 30-40minutes. with hand tools and about half that with air tools

 

Already have 272's. Thats when TurboTrix did the studs for the previous owner. I'm putting a port/pol exhaust mani on so it may be a good time to pull the head and check the tq. What else has to be removed to get to the studs? And is there anything else I can do to the HG to control the leaking short of stud tq/or changing it? Why are HG replacements so expensive?

 

IMHO I would just remove the whole head and replace the HG with a new one since you plan on boosting more anyway. Problems with the HG on a boosted car is so detremental.

So I would put a new HG on(copper is very good) there is also permatex that you can use, check the studs, put your ported mani on, new plugs, and check for abnormal wear and tear while your at it.

 

So I can reuse the studs? What is copper/permatex? Is that something you add to the HG seal? Do all agree a new stock HG is the best to use?

 

Thanks for serving out country bro!! Be careful. Some shop should step-up and get your repairs done as a "thank-you" for doing what you do, so we can stay here and race our evos!!!

Thanks again!

 

Thanks smoked. But I gotta pay to play. There are so many guys over here, shops would go out of business with that charity! Anyway, in a couple weeks I'll finally be home to fight the good fight on the track with you guys. One of my favorite pasttimes over here has been researching and building this car in my head for months. It drives me crazy knowing its broken!

 

If it's leaking all around the head gasket you might want to pull the head and installing a new gasket just to be on the safe side. The last thing you want is to install the alky kit turn up the boost and have more problems then what you started with.

 

Is it leaking around the top of the head or the bottom? If it's leaking around the top it may be a valve cover gasket. MUCH less costly.

 

Well you wont know that until you pull the head and look at them. Most likely yes. A stock HG is definitely ok. And yes you can add high temp permatex to help seal it which the factory I am sure used some type of sealant as well.