Anyone with Autometer boost guage.. Little HELP please....
Anyone with Autometer boost guage.. UPDATED.. WITH PICS!!!!
Hey guys,
Quick question..
I just purchased an Autometer boost guage (ELECTRIC). The question I had is:
1. The hose that they include, including the T, look alot smaller than the boost hose that I have to tap into.. Before I cut into this hose and have the wrong size T, can anyone confirm that the Autometer T that came with the gauge will fit snugly into the stock boost line? Just dont want any leaks.... Im not concerned about the line they gave me going into the T because it was made to fit, just the stock boost hose going into the T.
Also, the gauge has a red wire that says you should connect this to a source that supplies 12v power even when the engine is cranking. Any ideas for a good source for that?
HOPE this wasnt too confusing LOL. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me.
Quick question..
I just purchased an Autometer boost guage (ELECTRIC). The question I had is:1. The hose that they include, including the T, look alot smaller than the boost hose that I have to tap into.. Before I cut into this hose and have the wrong size T, can anyone confirm that the Autometer T that came with the gauge will fit snugly into the stock boost line? Just dont want any leaks.... Im not concerned about the line they gave me going into the T because it was made to fit, just the stock boost hose going into the T.
Also, the gauge has a red wire that says you should connect this to a source that supplies 12v power even when the engine is cranking. Any ideas for a good source for that?
HOPE this wasnt too confusing LOL. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me.
Last edited by theGman911; Jul 12, 2006 at 04:21 PM.
Its the inside diameter that matters... If you are so worried ... Pull off the end of the hose from then Man or BOV and test it then you can splice it. You can use any switch power... dash light... dimmer switch is suggested....
Yeah thats a good idea, I just wanted all the parts ready to go when I started, so I kinda wanted to get the T first, so I wouldnt have to drop the hood and head to the store again if it wasnt the right size T..
Anyway, as far as the switched power lead.. Wouldnt the dash light or dimmer only supply power when the lights are on? This gauge says it needs a 12v lead that stays on EVEN WHILE CRANKING.. Here are the instructions.. Check #8. I have seen, through searching, a few guys stumped from these electronic gauges when it comes to this step....
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/569.pdf
And YES you are correct, the WHITE wire I can absolutely connect to the dash lights, Just the red one is going to give a problem
Any ideas anyone?
Anyway, as far as the switched power lead.. Wouldnt the dash light or dimmer only supply power when the lights are on? This gauge says it needs a 12v lead that stays on EVEN WHILE CRANKING.. Here are the instructions.. Check #8. I have seen, through searching, a few guys stumped from these electronic gauges when it comes to this step....
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/569.pdf
And YES you are correct, the WHITE wire I can absolutely connect to the dash lights, Just the red one is going to give a problem

Any ideas anyone?
Last edited by theGman911; Jul 9, 2006 at 03:14 PM.
You can buy an Add-a-Circuit and Insert the Add-a-Circuit into blank fuse panel slot 10 for switched (ignition) 12v power to the gauges. Count from the top – left to right. You can get them from any auto store... they look like a fuse with a wire already attached...
Originally Posted by EVOIXNooB
You can buy an Add-a-Circuit and Insert the Add-a-Circuit into blank fuse panel slot 10 for switched (ignition) 12v power to the gauges. Count from the top – left to right. You can get them from any auto store... they look like a fuse with a wire already attached...
cool deal, I had no idea they made something like that! Thanks to all for your help.
I spoke to a friend of mine, and he told me that if I tap into a wire (solid pink) that connects to my viper alarm, that that wire connects to the ingnition somewhere, so if I tap into that pink wire it should give me what im lookin for, and the wire is right in the area I need to be as well.
Oh and I picked up a 10 pack of assorted T's in auto zone, so thanks!!
Ok, so I tried that pink wire for the 12v source I needed.. Ya know, the one that needs to keep power even during crank (for the zeroing feature of autometer electric gauges) Well.... When I tapped into it, the car started a pinging sound like a door was open, all the dash lights started flashing, and the car began starting by itself a few times etc.. Nightmare. Last time I mess with the wires for the viper LOL!!
Anyway, I wanted to post my findings so that anyone with an autometer digital gauge can find the answer they are looking for if they do a search..
For the 12v switched source I used the top left FUSE in the fuse box behind the dimmer control.. It is the one with the picture of an engine, on the diagram on the side of the dimmer box when pulled out. This source provides 12v SWITCHED power, and it remains on during cranking the car over. I removed the fuse, wrapped the wire around one of the prongs and stuck it back in.. All is well
Here are some pics. Ill include one of my HVAC lights as well.. I made them red, and you can check out the alpine I installed as well.. The autometer gauge is the cobalt series in case anyone want to know.
Anyway, I wanted to post my findings so that anyone with an autometer digital gauge can find the answer they are looking for if they do a search..
For the 12v switched source I used the top left FUSE in the fuse box behind the dimmer control.. It is the one with the picture of an engine, on the diagram on the side of the dimmer box when pulled out. This source provides 12v SWITCHED power, and it remains on during cranking the car over. I removed the fuse, wrapped the wire around one of the prongs and stuck it back in.. All is well

Here are some pics. Ill include one of my HVAC lights as well.. I made them red, and you can check out the alpine I installed as well.. The autometer gauge is the cobalt series in case anyone want to know.
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That came out good bro.. Glad you got it all strightened out. That add a circuit is what keeps you from wrapping the fuse. If you wanna change colors of your dash equipment... 42 Draft design sells lights and LEDs that will get you right... Looks awesome... I have 4 AM at home under the bed waiting to be installed...
I used the add a circuit in the cruise control slot on the fuse panel. It is switched and stays hot while cranking. Since we all know the Evo doesn't have cruise it was just an empty slot.
Yeah I saw that there.. I thought I pushed the power wire in there and tested it.. Thats good to know, maybe Ill switch it to there with the add a circuit fuse. That would be a cleaner install. Where was this info yesterday when I was pushing the wire into every fuse I could find.. LOL!
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