The reason you MUST do a "boost leak test"!! Don't pass go. Read this.
just got back from home depot...the people there looked at me as if I had 3 heads when I asked them if they carried valve stems...where did you guys get yours? I also checked walmart but no luck.
What do you do about the connection of the DV to the intake pipe once the intake pipe is removed?
What do you do about the connection of the DV to the intake pipe once the intake pipe is removed?
Boost leak
Thanks for the info.
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
I didn't expect them to, they "squeezed" me in for the tunes, and I spoke to them, and we said "if there is anything catastrophic, or problematic" they would pull the car off the dyno. Andrew had my dash apart looking for "other" problems with the meth kit, and spend damn near all day on that. I need them for a DYNO tunning session, not to fix the car mechanically. It is MY fault, the car should have been on the rollers, strapped, tuned! I should have checked this stuff BEFORE I went to get the tune. I didn't hear any leaks, the boost gauge was reading "ok" I guess, but then again, i didn't get ON IT, with the stock injectors, nor when I got the larger ones scaled. I was waiting for some WOT pulls when it was tuned on the dyno. It was safer that way.
A SIMPLE boost check done by me would have solved all my problems!! 1 hour max. now look, I got 2 tunes, drove 25 hours JUST getting there and back, not to include the dyno times, and spent??? I got the car home, and am UN-TUNED!! In a sence. AMS did richen it up, as it was TOO lean before. I am going back real soon for another tune, with some REAL numbers. here are the 1st set of dyno numbers. AMS tune was less, because the LEAKS WERE GETTING BIGGER!!!
I have been:
A SIMPLE boost check done by me would have solved all my problems!! 1 hour max. now look, I got 2 tunes, drove 25 hours JUST getting there and back, not to include the dyno times, and spent??? I got the car home, and am UN-TUNED!! In a sence. AMS did richen it up, as it was TOO lean before. I am going back real soon for another tune, with some REAL numbers. here are the 1st set of dyno numbers. AMS tune was less, because the LEAKS WERE GETTING BIGGER!!!
I have been:
I wasted the first ~4 months of the race season with a huge hole in my FMIC. I should have tested it when I installed it, but I got lazy. My WBO2 and DSMlink's calculated AFR matched close enough, so I never got motivated to check it (boost leaks have always made the WBO2 read richer than calculated, for obvious reasons).
Another good tip for the pressure tester is to not use a tire valve at all, but tap and screw in an airline fitting instead. Connect your air compressor line right to the tester, and use the regulator to control pressure (start with it at zero or very low!). The tire valve is a big restriction, and makes it very difficult to find large leaks. I mean real big ones, too big to whistle or make noise. Been through this many times...
Another good tip for the pressure tester is to not use a tire valve at all, but tap and screw in an airline fitting instead. Connect your air compressor line right to the tester, and use the regulator to control pressure (start with it at zero or very low!). The tire valve is a big restriction, and makes it very difficult to find large leaks. I mean real big ones, too big to whistle or make noise. Been through this many times...
Originally Posted by kjewer1
I wasted the first ~4 months of the race season with a huge hole in my FMIC. I should have tested it when I installed it, but I got lazy. My WBO2 and DSMlink's calculated AFR matched close enough, so I never got motivated to check it (boost leaks have always made the WBO2 read richer than calculated, for obvious reasons).
Another good tip for the pressure tester is to not use a tire valve at all, but tap and screw in an airline fitting instead. Connect your air compressor line right to the tester, and use the regulator to control pressure (start with it at zero or very low!). The tire valve is a big restriction, and makes it very difficult to find large leaks. I mean real big ones, too big to whistle or make noise. Been through this many times...
Another good tip for the pressure tester is to not use a tire valve at all, but tap and screw in an airline fitting instead. Connect your air compressor line right to the tester, and use the regulator to control pressure (start with it at zero or very low!). The tire valve is a big restriction, and makes it very difficult to find large leaks. I mean real big ones, too big to whistle or make noise. Been through this many times...
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From: Port Saint Lucie, FL (South FL)
Originally Posted by VTECH8TR
Kevin,
I don't understand why AMS or the other tuner did not check this for you. Especially after the long drive to get tuned, the long wait etc....
The Boost Leak test should be done anytime you change ANYTHING on the car.
I don't understand why AMS or the other tuner did not check this for you. Especially after the long drive to get tuned, the long wait etc....
The Boost Leak test should be done anytime you change ANYTHING on the car.
Ahmen.
Originally Posted by anjapower
just got back from home depot...the people there looked at me as if I had 3 heads when I asked them if they carried valve stems...where did you guys get yours? I also checked walmart but no luck.
What do you do about the connection of the DV to the intake pipe once the intake pipe is removed?
What do you do about the connection of the DV to the intake pipe once the intake pipe is removed?
Originally Posted by taenaive
where did you buy the PVC end cap? I coudn't find the right size. I think It has to be bit larger than 2.5 OD. and Home depot didn't have any that size.
I'm also about 20whp short of my target with my mods. As soon as I get back home I plan to make this a priority. I bet if every evo owner did a check stock 70% would have leaks (imagine modded ones). Wouldn't surprise me in the slightest.
I always tell people to do boost tests more often. I do one pretty often and while I didnt find one in around 30,000 miles, the last one I found out my TB shaft seals are leaking and also since I last removed my LICP, it was leaking at the turbo outlet. I KNEW the car felt a little sluggish!
The leaks were not even that bad but I could feel a dip in response and overall top-end. Id say it was a solid 10-15whp loss. The leaks were not terrible but they sure did make a difference.
Anyone who thinks their car feels slow should do it.
Id like to add, I really think the mini-battery and my BR Deluxe UICP comes in handy when doing boost tests. I can take off my intake in 15 seconds and get in there and do the test in minutes. When I had stock intake/IC piping it was a nightmare just to get in there!
The leaks were not even that bad but I could feel a dip in response and overall top-end. Id say it was a solid 10-15whp loss. The leaks were not terrible but they sure did make a difference.
Anyone who thinks their car feels slow should do it.
Id like to add, I really think the mini-battery and my BR Deluxe UICP comes in handy when doing boost tests. I can take off my intake in 15 seconds and get in there and do the test in minutes. When I had stock intake/IC piping it was a nightmare just to get in there!
Originally Posted by Soon2BEVO
I always tell people to do boost tests more often. I do one pretty often and while I didnt find one in around 30,000 miles, the last one I found out my TB shaft seals are leaking and also since I last removed my LICP, it was leaking at the turbo outlet. I KNEW the car felt a little sluggish!
The leaks were not even that bad but I could feel a dip in response and overall top-end. Id say it was a solid 10-15whp loss. The leaks were not terrible but they sure did make a difference.
Anyone who thinks their car feels slow should do it.
Id like to add, I really think the mini-battery and my BR Deluxe UICP comes in handy when doing boost tests. I can take off my intake in 15 seconds and get in there and do the test in minutes. When I had stock intake/IC piping it was a nightmare just to get in there!
The leaks were not even that bad but I could feel a dip in response and overall top-end. Id say it was a solid 10-15whp loss. The leaks were not terrible but they sure did make a difference.
Anyone who thinks their car feels slow should do it.
Id like to add, I really think the mini-battery and my BR Deluxe UICP comes in handy when doing boost tests. I can take off my intake in 15 seconds and get in there and do the test in minutes. When I had stock intake/IC piping it was a nightmare just to get in there!
Originally Posted by Exciting News
When you say leaking at the turbo outlet are you referring to where the outlet bolts to the turbo or where the outlet connects to the LICP at the coupler? I think that area is the sources of my woes. And yes, it sucks getting the intake off...
