I did a short throw, then metal shifter base bushings, then poly underhood bushings, then ditched the poly bushings for metal underhood bushings. The short throw was a non adjustable b&m with included shift knob, after going back to stock shifter with a Greddy counterweighted knob things were much smoother. The base bushings give a noticeable improvement although not as much as the underhood pieces. It may be a better idea to go with poly pieces for the base to allow a bit of give in order prevent cracking or shattering the plastic shifter cage. When I installed the poly underhood bushings they felt the same as stock. Now with metal bushings under there you'll really notice the improvement in shifting quality.

Sorry for the novel but this is something I pay a great deal of attention to in my personal car. I've gone about it through trial and error since March of '03 since there wasn't a whole lot of clear cut information out there.

In short metal or poly shifter base bushings, metal underhood bushings, stock shifter, greddy or any other equally counterweigted knob, MR 6spd transmission fluid (mitsu part# mz313376), and you've got a recipe for success

edit: I have heard that the clear anodized aluminum underhood bushings offered by Zak Lee are supposed to prevent the chance of them siezing but I'm not sure if they are offered for the 6spd. Also I wouldn't use anything other than the OEM 6spd fluid if in your shoes.

 

neither one should seize. i'd apply some anti-seize to the pin of the cable just to be safe. the aluminum ones are significantly lighter than the brass, but i doubt it would be noticeable.

 

Agreed, some good antizieze should take care of you. I had a can of Dupont teftlon lithium grease laying around and it has worked wonderfully for over two years now.