I have about 1k miles on my ACT MB7 HDSS w/ prolight flywheel. I am more than happy with this set up. Smooth as glass engagement(better than stock). Not a sound of any kind coming out of it,and it launches the car like a rocket with out a trace of burnt clutch smell.(if done correctly of course). If i get 20k out of this clutch i would never consider any other. I,ve read from other evom members that they have got between 20- 35k miles of hard driving out of this clutch.Like i said if i get 20k out of it its the only clutch i will ever use unless i decide to do a MAJOR increase of HP.(which i dont plan on) and then i would get the soon to be released from what i have read,the ACT twin carbon which i hear is gonna be one helluva set up.

 

I'm probably going to go with the same again. ACT MB7-HDSS. I drove the stock clutch for about 15-18K miles...then to the ACT. I've got just barely over 40,000 mi on now, so I'm somewhat saddened that the ACT didn't last longer. I guess I've gotten about 22K miles out of it. With that said it is very important to note: I knew the stock clutch was krap so I took it easy and kind of prided myself on the stock clutch lasting. Then, after I got the ACT broken in, I kind of relied on all the extra clamping pressure and launched it hard here and there over the past couple of years and really do drive the car hard. In fact, I think I'm pretty much in the habit of slightly slipping the clutch when I'm taking off, not even racing. My tranny is having problems with synchros going 1-2 and 2-3 because I shift so fast all the time (not any more, obviously). Nonetheless, I'm still on stock power....NO mods. So that's not a LOT of durability for this clutch to go out after only 22K. I have probably launched it hard (smell clutch) a couple of dozen times or maybe even 30 times...so that's going to tear it up.
Ok, sum total....damn, I wish this thing lasted longer, especially on stock power, but I'll likely go ahead and order another one (maybe I should get a lightweight flywheel too rather than resurface my stocker). The clutch felt very similar to stock..and I think even better. Smooth as heck, not too stiff at all. Maybe with a little care it'd last 30K, which sounds like a long time for these cars from what I'm hearing.

 

I just got the Exedy Organic with a Gruppe S flywheel installed. The Exedy was recommended to me. There was no way I was paying $1600 for the twin plate. That is probably more clutch than I will need. Plus, I don't like the trade offs you have with the twin plate.

So far, with only 200-300 miles on it, it is really smooth, way smoother than the stock clutch. I can't wait to break it in and really get on it.

I guess I am in the minority....I replaced the stock clutch because of upgrades I plan to do ( Cams, IX turbo) and an install deal at AMS. The stock clutch was still going strong at 43,000 miles. I drag raced ALOT on that clutch..probably in the neighborhood of 75- 100 passes. No slipping, or any signs it was going. Just the annoying lockout....a problem which I believe has been solved with the new clutch.

 

The rate ur at you will need a new transfercase a week after you put a new clutch in. Your clutch went pretty early. Either u went way overboard on launching the car the right way, granted it is not good for the car regardless or u were slipping the **** out of ur clutch and your clutch might be fine but your flywheel is warped?

 

Well, I plan on getting it resurfaced. Im not sure if I have heard of a flywheel getting warped. However, Im new to the evo game. Im also new at the launching game. I think I burnt it becase I didnt want to drop it hard , cause I didnt want to dammage the driveline parts. I removed the plastic pill in the clutch slave cylinder also to help with clutch feel. I did alot of smelly clutch launches. How hard is it to break a TC?

Thanks for your input,
Kyle

 

The new clutch and the stock clutch are of identical design except for the diaphragm which is stronger on the Exedy Stage 1. The cause for the lockout problem on the stock clutch is most likely because the surfaces were overheated and warped. If that happens again on the new clutch, adjust the engagement point a bit higher to allow more travel and therefore more clearance around the disc (air gap) and the lockout should go away.

 

Thanks for the tip