My car is nearly finished evo vi up to 1000hp but it will be and street car(pedal must be not very hard to use) exept from drag and circuit.I have bought double plate Cusco clutch but everyone told me not to use them.What do you suggest on buying and why?

 

i doubt the cusco will handle that sort of power, a clutch thats going to handle that power won't be that streetable, it can be done though...

 

you need something like the OS GIKEN Triple Plate Carbon!

 

I have one in stock ready to ship.

PM me for pricing.

 

How it can been done streetable(not too heavy pedal i mean) and race also?

 

Thanks but i have been told that the OS giken are indeed very good but it can not been driven in the street and the pedal is too heavy??

 

Thanks,but what is this clutch brand and what are its specifications(on street/race/drag) weight,pedal horsepower etc?

 

Just get it...Can't go wrong with a Tilton...

 

Along with the Tilton clutch, ATS carbon triple, ATS carbon twin, OS Giken Carbon twin, ORC Carbon twin are available for the 4G63 transmissions. OS Giken and ORC make carbon triples but they mainly focus on RB26DETT and 2JZ applications.

I have driven OS Giken single, double, and triple plates on the street with no problems. Once you get accustomed to the release point, which normally takes a couple deadstop starts, everything is OK. There are couple 1200whp+ Supras and GTRs cruising the streets of Okinawa with OS Giken quadruple plate setups without any issues. All of the Japanese clutch makers have redesigned their clutches with a lighter pedal feel. The OS Giken single plate and ORC409D single in my EVO IV have more pedal pressure than the OS Giken twin that is in my Honda. The Cusco and OS Giken single that got replaced by the OS Giken twin in the Honda also had more pedal pressure than the current OS twin(new design).

Almost any clutch that is needed to support 1000hp will most likely have a stiff pedal feel.

You need to get your priorities straight before building your this setup. If you want to have a 1000hp street car you need to realize that you are going to have a rough idle, a clutch with a heavier than stock feel, lots of maintenance, lots of turbo lag when used on the street or small circuits and lots of noise from the 80mm+ exhaust that is needed to support 1000hp. Once you go over the 600whp mark you might as wheel concentrate on having a race car that cruises the streets.

Drag setups do not perform well on circuits and vice versa. Gearing, tire type, suspension and turbo size are the main factors for the two totally different setups.

You need to worry about the other issues too.
Traction/braking - tires, suspension, body rigidity, calipers/rotors/line/fluid
safety - rollcage, bucket seat, seat belts, fire suppression
fuel - pump(s), tank, surge tank if needed, fuel lines to support 1000hp
drivetrain - gearset to handle 1k hp and keep you in boost between shifts, gearset for intended usage, driveshaft, axle shafts, diffs (front, center and rear).

Sorry for the somewhat offtopic reply but I am trying to get the original poster to see my points. 1000hp can be accomplished but at a cost! Will he be able to put 1000hp the ground? Has he completely researched the issues concerning a 1000hp setup? Is 1000hp really needed for his intended usage (for circuit,,,,,,, HELL NO)?

 

Thank you for this post.I have been building this car for a year now the only thing that is left behind for the future months is the gearbox and an FIA roll cage 6 point,if any.The 1000hp(not wheel power) is the goal i want to reach sometime,not the power i will ever use in the street or circuit,for drag race and on dyno yes.That is why i am confused and thinking about the cams lift,the solid lifters and clutch choise.I have spent unitl now over USD 80.000.

 

As far as the clutch is concerned, availability is your biggest issue. The Tilton, ATS, ORC and OS Giken should perform the same. I do not have any experience with the Tilton clutch so I can not make any claims to their performance. I know how the other companies perform because I have either personally used their product, installed their product in a friend's car or have driven a friend's car with their product installed. The carbon disk setups will remove a lot of the shock from the drivetrain during hard launchs and hold power excellently during full throttle sprints but the overhauls will be more expensive than the normal metal disk setups.

I'll answer your cam questions in the other thread.