Redline is _horrible_ in a 2G DSM transmission. That's all the variations, mixtures, etc. I have run GM Synchromesh in one of my 2Gs and loved it (though it goes away after 18-20,00 miles), but that didn't work well in my 98's replacement trans at all. I had a mixture of BG Syncroshift and GM Synchromesh in my 95 which worked wonderfully - more accident than design, it was what I had on the shelf at an unplanned centre diff swap. I just switched to BG Synchroshift (not the II formulation) in both my DSMs and my girlfriend's 2G, and without exception, all 3 shift worse...I'm actually getting scowled at right now :-) I have to change at least one of these cars to something effective pretty soon, if I want life to be pleasant again.

This may or may not relate to EVO transmissions, but 1G and 2G transmissions are very picky about the trans oil, and they are quite different regarding their preferences. FWIW, the dual-cone 1-2 synchro in a 2G _hates_ changing down at highish rpms - it completely refuses without a slow and deliberate double-declutch, so multi-cone synchros may not be the be-all and end-all to fast shifts (dogs are the real solution).

Charles

 

Well... What choices do we have outside of he OEM stuff? Is there a suggested Synthetic MT fluid for this car? Is there something from Mobil perhaps?

I would like to use something I can get with ease at a local parts store if possible. Anyone have any good ideas on what to try in the EVO that is readily available?

Redline… I have always used Redline MTL in my cars with great results... In ALL cases I have been warned NOT to use it by folks in forums like this for the other cars I have owned... There was always a story about how it caused premature failures... In the past I just used Redline and never once had any issues… I have used it on 6 cars for several hundred thousand miles with no issues at all…

This is my first Mitsubishi, I am seeing that the same feeling toward Redline seems to hold true here... Is this really the case or is this product religion? I am not saying I don’t trust any of this anti-Redline sentiment… I appreciate the technical reasoning that has been shared about it being thin and such… BUT… Are there FACTS on this, documented cases that show that Redline causes failure in multiple instances?

Thanks,

Chris

 

Lots of misinformation here about Redline guys.

There are two types of Redline tranny fluid: Redline MTL and Redline MT-90.

Can you guess which one is 75w90 and should be in your transmission?

The guys that were getting premature bearing wear in their DSMs were all using MTL. Whoops.

If you talk to Redline, they recommend MT-90, but they also say that you can use a mix of 2 parts MTL to 1 part MT-90 if you want better shifting.

I personally wouldn't do that. Maybe a 1 part MTL to 2 parts MT-90 mix, but with all the bearing wear stories, I'd personally steer clear of MTL entirely.

I use BG Syncroshift in my DSM. Never have used Syncroshift II, don't know the difference. Some cars like the Redline stuff more, others BG. I suggest trying both. I tried MT-90 first and then BG, ended up liking the latter more.

Hope that helps y'all!

 

If you are experiencing grinding in your Lancer, your clutch may not be fully disengaged between shifts. On DSM's, you can look under the dash board and find the rod that is attached to the clutch pedal which actuates the slave cylinder on the other side of the firewall. There is a nut you can loosen so that you can turn the rod closer to, or further away from the
actuator on the cluch pedal. This will cause the clutch to disengage more or less which will affect how high off the floor the clutch engages when you take your foot off the pedal. I wouldn't adjust the rod any further than 1/2 turn. If this doesn't correct the problem, see your dealer as there is most definitely a flaw in your 2nd gear synchronizers.

Jesse

 

My car only grinds when the car is first run and only on 3rd to 2nd downshifts, not upshifts. It does this even when the temp outside is 85 degrees F. I have found that if I do not downshift into 2nd for at least 5 minutes after first driving the car, there is no grinding. Could this be related to the tranny fluid needing to be properly up to temperature. The car also has a tranny cooler for reliabilty and may take longer to reach optimum operating temperature. However, why does this only happen with 2nd gear and not any others? If it was a synchro it wouldn't matter if the fluid in the tranny was below, up to, or above normal operating temperature and would grind no matter what. Just my 2 cents. Any other thoughts?

Chad.

 

I Have 11,000 Miles On My Car And It Grinds In 2nd And Won't Go In At High Rpm's..... I Had A New Clutch Installed Last Weekend Exedy Single Disk..... And It Still Grinds But Goes In..... It Was Fine All Week Till Sunday Night... Now I Have To Turn My Car Off To Put It In 1st Gear Will The Dealer Give Me A Hard Time......the Shop That Did My Clutch Is 250 Mile Away..... Just Want To Know If The Dealer Will F*%# With Me........