WOW.. interesting thread!!! ME for example HAD nitrous on my evo IX and also HAD an EvoIX..... i had the bolt-ons on my signature plus a 80shot that i ran only when there was 110octane in the car.. the car ran solid hard(N2O on stock TURBO FTW!!).. until it got touched by a tuner that was flashing my car! cylinder #4 went and thats that.. i didnt look to blame any1 bcuz no1 was gonna take the blame and pay for a new motor..

The shop that installed the kit made sure that the car was running proper A/F ratios in WOT and they messed around with the jets until the a/f number were perfect... 3 months later i took the car to get tuned bcuz i wanted a more proper tune for the race gas and nitrous and the motor blew...

Nitrous is awesome when properly done and 60-80shot on a stock 4g63 will run beautifully if its tuned properly from the get go.. what i should have done was buy a Apexi AFC2 like the shop told me to do... they have made 750whp with an AFC on several supras and their Big turbo Supra made 800whp maxing out the AFC(then they went AEM and made 940WHP)... They are really good with AFC's.. and i should of went the AFC route but i didnt...

i think i got a couple of street videos of me on spray if any1 wants the links PM me.....

 

Haha I just wanted you to keep posting on this thread even though you say your done with it.. I'm just messing around.. You got your opinion and it's cool... I would try to look up some sort of proof backing that nitrous has the same effects as turbo but I don't feel like doing the research and reading a bunch of threads that doesn't have to do with this and then it's hard to find a thread that does talk about this.. the search for nitrous is too broad.. hopefully someone will come in with more insight for this thread to prove which is right...

 

SilverNines car was a beast.

 

All things being equal, meaning there are no failures to the fuel system, and the car is properly tuned, neither method is more or less "safe" than the other when it comes to the motor. Now the drivetrain is a different story. The power from nitrous is immediate and will shock a drivetrain a lot worse than the power from a turbo.

Even though the delivery system is different, both methods raise cylinder pressure to make more torque pure and simple. More air, more fuel, higher pressure, more power.

The only reason I can see that would make nitrous a more unsafe alternative would be the fact that there is a slightly higher chance of a fuel delivery problem due to a solenoid failure. But again, a properly maintained system will not have these problems. As a rule when we race, we check every spark plug after every run to make sure there are no rich/lean issues to adjust. After every race day all solenoids are removed, cleaned, and tested. All nozzles removed and cleaned. Both nitrous a fuel filters are also checked. This seems like a lot of maintnance but for the over all cost (about 1/4 the cost of a comperable turbo or supercharger system), adjustability and overall better track results over a turbo system, it is well worth it.

For drag racing purposes nitrous is by far the most effective choice over a turbo. Horsepower increases being the same, a nitrous car will out 60' and run faster 1/4 mile times than a turbo car.

 

Very good explanation, and people wonder why im getting axles, driveshafts, built tranny, and built t-case and rear diff with a gigantic clutch before any more power.

 

Excellent idea.

Not to get too far off topic seeing as how this is a Mitsubishi board, but when we built the Camaro we build it backwards from what most people out there do.

Normally people go with horsepower mods first and wait for something in the drivetrain to break. We beefed up the drivetrain first, then started to add some power. Prepair and upgrade your drivetrain now otherwise you'll have a lot of downtime later. If you blow all your cash on that turbo upgrade you won't have the money for the new transaxel later. (Transaxel or whatever the hell these cars use. Man I have a lot to learn. )

 

It has been done, but be very careful and do your research before hand. It is alot easier to blow a turbo motor once you add nitrous.

 

what if u say a person goes with a 35r and a 75 shot

 

I figured that this was a thread was resurecting insted of starting a new one. so here goes.

What do you think that the maximum hp shot is that you could put into an Evo? Lets assume forged rods, and pistons and an adaquate fuel system and ignition system. Since we are talking about huge amounts of juice lets also assume injectors in each runner. Lets base this argument on a stock turbo car with all the basic mods making 400HP before the spray? If EGT's and AFR's are not the limiting factor. What is? Cylinder pressure?

Has anyone gone over a 100hp shot?

 

I'm with EvoTech....what's to say you couldn't do a 75 shot in the intake stream? THe simplest of kits. I've been wondering about this ever since I got my Evo. LIKE FOR INSTANCE the Zex kit to me seems like a safe way to introduce NO2 into an Evo's 4g63...anyone with this experience?

 

That has been done by many of us. Set up right it is not a problem. I am trying talking about a lot of juice. Like a 150 shot!

 

Built motor, dont try and do it through a single fogger, thats asking for a lean cylinder and a hole in a piston, do a properly installed direct port, get it tuned for a specific bottle pressure (e.g. 1050, like mine is setup for) and make sure to run it only on race fuel. Although lots of people run meth and nitrous, for the sake of the longevity of the motor, I would just do 108 octaine whenever I sprayed. I would also invest in a window switch, a fuel pressure cutoff, and pretty much any other saftey devices that you can find. There are 100's of options out there. If your really going ***** to the walls 20g with a boat load of spray, I would recommend going with an AEM setup for engine management, something that you can store an actual nitrous map on, to control your solenoids with 100% percision. Through AEM you can setup quite a few qualifiers to make the kit activate. For example, a kit running in my friends talon has the following conditions that have to be met to activate his solenoids.

1) RPM has to be over 2500
2) Fuel pressure has to be over 45 psi
3) Throttle has to be at WOT
4) Car has to be in boost, no vac
5) Arming switch has to be activated
6) AFR's have to remain consistant when on bottle, if the deviate to far, the spray cuts out.

You can literally add 10's of qualifiers like that to the AEM system with a good tuner. If you have any more questions ask away. If you want to know the truth about nitrous, I wouldnt run a 150 shot if I were you. Through my NX kit, jetted to a 50 shot (as per there jet chart) I made 97 wheel hp. Thus the 100 shot. I can only imagine what you would get out of a direct port jetset for 150 wheel, all I can say is go get some drag radials.

 

I guess I should have told you my setup thus far. I have the nx kit currently set up with a 50hp shot. I have the a seperate n20 map. Utec controls the window of operation which is set beween 3300 and 7500 and at 100 throttle position. Rev limiter is moved to 8300. I use a greddy wireless 12v switch on the wheel to activate the system after 1st gear. I have a bottle heater to insure correct bottle pressure.

What do you think about this? I am thinking about moving to a much smaller fuel jet and adding the extra fuel via the injectors with the utec. I figure that this will insure equal distribution of fuel and I may get away without individual nozzles. I have enough head room with my injectors to do this. They are only at 78% duty cycle. I also run a hobbs switch for added fueling safety. Very interesting to hear that your 50hp shot actually yielded 97 whp. Do you remember what the torque difference was. I would love to see that.

 

No clue, but I made a lot more torque than most 400 hp all boost evos. I would stray away from using your injectors to add more fuel, unless it is a nitrous only track car, by doing that, you are going to complicate the tuning, as well as absoloutly destroy your off bottle performance (unless you have the map switching device that they make for utec) if you have that though, there is no reason it couldnt work. You will still end up leaning out cylinders though, no matter how you look at it, a single fogger was not ment to spray more that a 75 shots jet of nitrous or fuel. Just get a direct port setup, they are not that expensive to peice together yourself, and you can use steel braided lines rather than bending stainless steel piping to make the installation easier. Any way you cut it, if you try to run 150 hp through a single fogger, your going to have problems.

If you want to think about the torque spike my car makes, I spin at the beginning of first no matter how long I slip the clutch at moroso in south florida, and when I hit the switch in first, the tires go again.

 

well what do you think about the NOS wet powerfogger kit because i can pick one up from my buddy cheap and it's new...and he said if installed and tuned right, it's perfectly fine and i should just run a 75 shot into the uicp..what do you guys think? and to tune it, just lower the boost a little and lower afr's and lower timing and then adjust accordingly to get around mid 11's afr....what's your guys advice on this...or on this system...it seems pretty safe yet powerful