Even with your mods, I still dont see an issue spraying a 50shot. As Kart has stated, you make damn sure your tune is done well and you have taken all the precautions (such as colder plugs, a progressive controller, learning and learning). Nitrous can be sprayed on the dyno, and since you have the XEDE, surely you can have another map added for nitrous. If you are running a lot of boost, obviously the 2nd map will need to pull timing. You will only dyno tune with nitrous if you have the capability to switch over just before you spray.

There is another progressive controller I keep seeing, in the back of almost all Turbo mag's, that will cut nitrous if the AFR's are out of whack. There is also another unit that activates with boost (say you want to spray 25shot @ 3500 and full tilt at 5500, with cut off at 7000).

The options for nitrous are nearly endless. So many things you can add to your basic system to keep it safe and spraying for years.

 

Thanks for the info!! I won't be using the Xede any more, I was just going to use the Stock ECU. Can it still be done with that? Or just wait when (if ever) i get a standalone. Thanks again. 50 shot tops for me though, it's just enough for me.

 

Actually, the only way to know your out of nitrous is to spray a LOT of fumes, to the point where your pressure drops below 400 or so, or to purge and see. With a torch I can get a bottle that is completly dry, yet still has compressed air in it, up to an operating pressure of about 1000 psi. Yet the hit will be crappy. As long as there is nitrous in your bottle, when you purge a nice white mist will come out. I got 9 full drag passes out of a full 10 lb bottle. Actually, 7 and a half, the first pass of the night I never spray, and the last pass I had fouled my plugs so badly with c16 mixed with pump gas that it was breaking up to violently in 3rd and 4th to stay in it. The 100 shot thing is me guessing. I put in the 50 shot jets, but my trap speed increase was much more accurate to a 100 shot. If you want to get particular, the scan and logging softwear I use has a built in HP calculator, and while its useless to know what you actually make, its pretty good for finding out what a difference something made. It says I pick up 97 hp. Boost cooling is a huge factor. When I spray nitrous rather than tapering from about 21 psi off to around 18, it just sticks at 21 and never waivers.

 

Yes the stock ECU is fine. A 50shot on practically any vehicle is fine, as long as your a wise user and take the proper precautions. I might even spray again... gotta love the stock turbo characteristics.

You can actually feel it... kinda. Grab a scale and weigh it... the bottle itself is just about 15lbs. The nitrous inside can actually store 10lbs (well... 9.8 something).

Ive had very good luck with a plain ol Autometer nitrous pressure gauge. Ive noticed when I used to have about 700psi in my bottle, I could get it almost to 900 with a bottle warmer and blanket at the track. It was good for almost another 3 runs (2-3-4 gear).

Oh thats another thing too Smoked... you definately need a gauge and warmer. Obviously a WB would be your new wife

 

thanks guys! I think I might just buy the accessories like bottle heater, pressure gauge, fuel pressure switch, and window switch from NOS and be set, and these seem like enough safety for using the system occasionaly

 

Even for the occasional user, you should still think about a progressive controller. There are many of them on the market, and all have their own safety's behind them.

I believe back in 97, the Jacob's controller was $249.

 

well, i think i would be just fine for full flow in 2nd gear under WOT as i'm already above 5000 rpm..it's not like i need less at 5500 and more at 6500...i'll just take the full shot at WOT...

 

I am one of the few people that loves the UTEC especially with nitrous.
1.It gives you the ability to switch between 5 different maps on the fly at the push of a button with the car running.
2. It can activate your nitrous solenoids with a variety of parameters like RPM window and TPS.
3. It gives you overboost protection that will cut the nitrous if a certain boost level is exceded.
4. It gives you complete control over your boost control solenoid. So no more boost controllers and higher boost is just a push of a button away.

To really optimize the use of the juice, you need a seperate map for nitrous. I actually have 2. One for nitrous plus pump and meth and one for c16, nitrous and meth. It works perfectly for this application. You can of course run nitrous on a flash, but you will be giving up timing when you are not on the bottle and loosing power.

 

I found that on a 50 (or 75 shot, I forget which now), the car continued to make 10+ whp per degree of timing without knocking until I was at my usual race gas timing values. I had started with 2 degrees less. I'm not sure the typical -2 degrees per 50 hp worth of nitrous rule applies to us, since we run relatively low compression, rich AFRs, and relatively low timing values for the most part just on the turbo. IMO/YMMV.

 

Kartrailed,

First does your SN come from racing karts? Iraced karts for years. Even more fun than the evo.

Second, what kind of track times and mph has your setup yielded you?

 

i was thinkin about getting a utec but heard that turboxs haven't got an update yet for it, that it's still the old software....is it still helpful with the old firmware? and is it pretty use as I tune stock ecu's, so would it be similar?

 

Although I do enjoy kart racing as a pasttime, I havent done more than a couple am. events at the local tracks in south florida, im pretty much medioce but have done a couple enduros with friends. As for my current setup, the best time I have ran is a 12.3@112 on pump gas+50 shot. This is all with no tuning other than a base flash for my mods. Also, the car is an 03 and I still havent done anything to bring it up to speed with the 05's. 9.8 Hotside, no limited slip, everything is behind. Not to mention our track was terrible that night, plus I was in an event that was protreed'. My 60's suffered and the best run of a night only had a 1.82, usually I cut low 1.7's, so theres a lot left in it for now. Once I jet it out to a 75 shot and get an actual tune going, I expect 116-118 traps on pump. I have a best trap so far of 114, up from 105 running off bottle.

 

If you are downtalking karts, you must not race a serious kart. No offence, but my 100 mph rotax kart with 20 other guys wheel to wheel was the most exciting thing I hae ever done in my life. I get warm and fuzzy thinking about it.

Back on topic. You need cams and a few more mods! Damn. I trap 117 and run 11.90's without the spray. Can't wait to get back to the track with it and see where I will be at.


Sekula,

It is true that they have not updated the software in a long time, but the thing still rocks. The only limiting factor is that you still have to run your MAF sensor. Speed density if promised in the update if it ever comes. The best thing is that becasue people are down on them, they are dirt cheap right now. You can buy a used one for maybe $200. IF you can tune a flash you can tune a utec. Add on the optional wideband sensor and you are really in business. I achieved my track times by learning everything I know about tuning by road tuning with the UTEC. I can;t say enough about it. I would even choose it over the AEM becasue I could never give up the ability to change maps without a laptop. 18 PSI puttin around town and 28 psi and meth at the flip of a switch when I wise *** in a vette rolls up on you.

 

A little OT, but it is possible to switch between two maps with the AEM using a switched input, FYI. Not trying to change your opinion or present any arguement, there are plenty of other reasons people avoid the AEM; just tossing that out there...

 

yea....i would def. buy one for 200...but everywhere i find it for about 400 used