Mobil 1 to Royal purple
Feb 27, 2007, 03:07 PM
#76
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What's the source of this article? URL?
Hydrocracking, as it's called, is the highest level of petroleum refining.
The process of producing a Group III base stock is hydrocracking/hydroisomerization. Both steps are chemical processes that change the feedstock chemically to create their product, unlike distillation which simply separates the feedstock into its already existing components.
Sounds like you're quoting AMSOIL propaganda...
Sounds like you're quoting AMSOIL propaganda...
Mar 25, 2007, 08:16 AM
#78
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Ive read all the comments and so will keep this short. i have a STI - 520HP and a Evo9 491Hp.
for stock cars M1 0-30 is the best oil to use. For moded cars with bigger power RP 10-40 racing is the best oil to use. The oil emps go up by 5deg C on RP but the added viscosity and surface tension/density prevents bearing failure compared to the thinner M1.
I have been mesing with M1 and RP for years so know them well. both are good but have different applications which suit them best. Using M1 in a 600hp car is not ideal! Same as using RP in a astock car...waste of money.
Adelin
for stock cars M1 0-30 is the best oil to use. For moded cars with bigger power RP 10-40 racing is the best oil to use. The oil emps go up by 5deg C on RP but the added viscosity and surface tension/density prevents bearing failure compared to the thinner M1.
I have been mesing with M1 and RP for years so know them well. both are good but have different applications which suit them best. Using M1 in a 600hp car is not ideal! Same as using RP in a astock car...waste of money.
Adelin
Mar 25, 2007, 11:11 PM
#79
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It really doesnt matter... you wont feel the difference in power(if theres any)... both oils are synthetic and both are good.. the only difference i think is that royal purple is a lil more expensive and its actually purple too... other than that it doesnt matter which one u use....
Mar 26, 2007, 04:16 PM
#80
Mobil 1 technically is not fully synthetic, however it is still a very good "synthetic" oil, and in my opinion it is better than Royal purple (Royal purple non racing oil isn't that good). In all the tests conducted, Amsoil seemed to perform a little better than Mobil 1 (did way better than Royal Purple by far). I also noticed when using Royal Purple that I consumed oil *much* faster than when I used Mobil 1 or Amsoil (perhaps the flashpoint of Royal Purple is a little lower?). AMSOIL 10w30 turbo formulation FTW.
So, I call this company up and start talking the a guy who starts telling me for starters that what they use is better than the Moly D. I try to be critical so that I can have him on the fence about the oil claims they are making, but the guy keeps coming back with all the right answers and data to back it up.(I'll try to attach it) As we are talking we start talking about oils and Viscosities ect... So I ask him what oil he runs in his personal car. He says, his oil, but not the 10W-30. He uses the 0W. All I could do was laugh at that point. He proceeds to tell me that I can too, and tells me how. I have receipts from Honda R&D that show them ordering 300 gallons at a time along with other info. I'll try to post the info soon. It's kind of a ramble once again, but its the truth. http://www.aerospacelubricants.com/a...e/default.html
Last edited by SWOLN; Mar 26, 2007 at 08:17 PM.
thats what im using and its great.it doesnt burn after 2000 miles like that mobil 1 junk..
Mar 26, 2007, 07:34 PM
#82
http://www.aerospacelubricants.com/f...%202%20tds.pdf
I have requested lots of info and will make it available to any one wanting it via email.
They sell various grades <<0W 10-30 and 15-40, also replacement for Gear lubes including the GL4 or GL5 series. They claim a reduction in heat for the gear lube of 45F, that is very significant. IF it is compatible with the AWD tranny as a direct replacement for DiaQueen, it might be worht it.
There have been a number of threads that compare synthetics including rear diff lube, in which the rear diff chatters when using the synthetic. I might surmise that the additvie package is insufficient to replace the high load fractions, which I beleive are like waxes. Not sure how or what the ALI is using
Runs about $8-10 quart for oil
I may try this oil in the crankcase on the next oil change. Not sure i want to be the guinea pig on a rather expensive AWD tranny tho'. I 'might toss some in the rear diff as it has synthetic in there now and shudders a little bit. At worst I will have to dump them both and replace them.
milburn
I have requested lots of info and will make it available to any one wanting it via email.
They sell various grades <<0W 10-30 and 15-40, also replacement for Gear lubes including the GL4 or GL5 series. They claim a reduction in heat for the gear lube of 45F, that is very significant. IF it is compatible with the AWD tranny as a direct replacement for DiaQueen, it might be worht it.
There have been a number of threads that compare synthetics including rear diff lube, in which the rear diff chatters when using the synthetic. I might surmise that the additvie package is insufficient to replace the high load fractions, which I beleive are like waxes. Not sure how or what the ALI is using
Runs about $8-10 quart for oil
I may try this oil in the crankcase on the next oil change. Not sure i want to be the guinea pig on a rather expensive AWD tranny tho'. I 'might toss some in the rear diff as it has synthetic in there now and shudders a little bit. At worst I will have to dump them both and replace them.
milburn
Mar 26, 2007, 08:05 PM
#83
No worries, I'm going to be the guinea pig here too, but I'm going to test the 0W-20 in the motor as a daily driver 1st though. After I will be trying the 0W. Data is as follows:
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF1.pdf
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF2.pdf
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF3.pdf
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF4.pdf
Please note their oil IS NOT compatable with the rear diff, nor the TC ! When I talked to Scott, he specifically asked if there were any Pinion, Worm, or Hypoid gears within the transmission, which there are not. There are in the TC.
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF1.pdf
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF2.pdf
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF3.pdf
http://www.brownbucket.com/buckets/jbrown/SF4.pdf
There have been a number of threads that compare synthetics including rear diff lube, in which the rear diff chatters when using the synthetic. I might surmise that the additvie package is insufficient to replace the high load fractions, which I beleive are like waxes. Not sure how or what the ALI is using
Last edited by SWOLN; Mar 26, 2007 at 08:31 PM.
Mar 26, 2007, 08:09 PM
#84
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A bit off topic but I realized today that I've been running Mobil1 5W30 for the past 2,500 miles. I ran the car at test and tune half day in a short road course and did many, many pulls before that to get the tune a little better. This was in north-central Florida where it was fairly warm, low 80s i the day and high 40s at night. Do you think any damage was done? Thanks.
Mar 26, 2007, 08:12 PM
#85
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A bit off topic but I realized today that I've been running Mobil1 5W30 for the past 2,500 miles. I ran the car at test and tune half day in a short road course and did many, many pulls before that to get the tune a little better. This was in north-central Florida where it was fairly warm, low 80s i the day and high 40s at night. Do you think any damage was done? Thanks.
Mar 26, 2007, 08:25 PM
#87
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Synergyn Full Synthetic Oil 5w30. API Classifications: CD, CC, SJ, SH, SG (Turbo Approved)
http://www.nelsonmotorsports.com/synoilshp.php#p1
Motul 5w30 100% Synthetic - Ester based
http://turbofrogperformance.com/Prod..._LL01_5w30.htm
ELF HTX 830
http://www.elfoil.com.au/products/pr...me=ELF_HTX_830
http://www.nelsonmotorsports.com/synoilshp.php#p1
Motul 5w30 100% Synthetic - Ester based
http://turbofrogperformance.com/Prod..._LL01_5w30.htm
ELF HTX 830
http://www.elfoil.com.au/products/pr...me=ELF_HTX_830
Mar 26, 2007, 08:43 PM
#88
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^^I used to run Motul 300V 5W30 on my Subaru. Awesome stuff, I sent in my oil for analysis several times and the results always came back great. No plans to run it on the Evo though because with the amount of miles I drive it gets pretty expensive, costs about $22 per two litre can.
stikillller...thanks man, I was getting worried there.
stikillller...thanks man, I was getting worried there.
Mar 26, 2007, 09:18 PM
#90
our race tech dynoed all kinds of oil in an open wheel car.
Scott,
Hey just a wanted to say thanks for your previous response. I can wait to try out the new oil. I have a question, as always. Is there a transmission oil that you can recommend that is compatible with a Mitsubishi Evolution IX transmission? I believe its uses a GL4 type oil. I have also heard from reading the forums on the Evo that a GL4/5 is not recommended. Something about the sulfur, and the brass synchros having issues with each other. Maybe you'll have some ideas.
Thanks again
SWOLN
Scott Stukenberg
Mar 22 (4 days ago)
We don’t use sulfur in any of our gear oils.
Not sure what weight GL4 is. As long as there are no pinion worm or hypoid gear in the transmission you should have no problems with our <<0 weight in the trans.
Talk about increase in hp!
scott
Mar 23 (3 days ago)
Scott,
You're really frightening me now Scott. The oil weight is a 75W-90.
SWOLN
On 3/22/07, Scott Stukenberg wrote:
Chicken
I’d have to see a cutaway of the tranny but I’ll bet……..
We have 1500 hp I/O off shore race boats with <<0 in the outdrives instead of 75W-90
DEI, Robbie Gordon JR, Mcglynn Racing and every 2005 & 2006 Honda IRL Cars had <<0 weight in the transmissions.
Scott