Boost Controller questions...
Boost Controller questions...
Are there any advantages/disadvantges for a manual vs electronic fancy schmancy boost controllers?
I'm looking for the best money/horsepower ratio...
Also, would a boost controller be OK for a standalone mod or are any other mods required?
I'm looking for the best money/horsepower ratio...
Also, would a boost controller be OK for a standalone mod or are any other mods required?
It really depends on if you want cockpit control of the boost levels.. a Manual boost controller is MUCH cheaper than an electronic boost controller, installation is a little simpler, though not by much. If you don't mind periodically adjusting the boost because of DRASTIC changes in weather (Very cold weather or very warm weather has an effect on boost levels) then the MBC is just fine. The advantage of the EBC is that you can program it, adjust it, and whatnot, even have an overboost control, etc, but it is all done within the car. And since the boost level is electronically regulated, it should (Within reason) maintain the same boost levels that you set.
the answer to your other question is YES, you can run a boost controller with this car with no other modifications. you can use an S-AFC (fuel controller) to regulate the mixture at WOT, however all of us are generally using the AFC to remove too much fuel, not add because of the turbo.
The biggest gains you are going to make is using the two items, but if budget is an issue, you can safely do either the S-AFC, or a Boost controller..
I definitely recommend three mods right off the bat.. BEFORE you do any of this.. Upgrade your air filter, either a Panel in the stock box, or an aftermarket open element. Get a boost gauge (Mechanical is usually better, but alot of the electronic stuff has improved in quality in the past few years) and as idiotic as this seems.. GET A SHIFT LIGHT of some sort.. Shifting at the RIGHT time does the most for your cars performance..
the answer to your other question is YES, you can run a boost controller with this car with no other modifications. you can use an S-AFC (fuel controller) to regulate the mixture at WOT, however all of us are generally using the AFC to remove too much fuel, not add because of the turbo.
The biggest gains you are going to make is using the two items, but if budget is an issue, you can safely do either the S-AFC, or a Boost controller..
I definitely recommend three mods right off the bat.. BEFORE you do any of this.. Upgrade your air filter, either a Panel in the stock box, or an aftermarket open element. Get a boost gauge (Mechanical is usually better, but alot of the electronic stuff has improved in quality in the past few years) and as idiotic as this seems.. GET A SHIFT LIGHT of some sort.. Shifting at the RIGHT time does the most for your cars performance..
Hi Dave,
One additional thought; the MBC's are quite stable and rarley spike, while EBC's are more prone to boost spikes induced by the electronics; the kiss principle works well here.
Buschur offers a "remote" controlled MBC which offers cabin adjustment and rock solid boost conrol.
Speedlimit..
One additional thought; the MBC's are quite stable and rarley spike, while EBC's are more prone to boost spikes induced by the electronics; the kiss principle works well here.

Buschur offers a "remote" controlled MBC which offers cabin adjustment and rock solid boost conrol.
Speedlimit..
Don't forget about the most important mods. Yourself, Staying in Control and Safety.
Get a Good harness so you can stay in place and turn and shift when your supposed to, not turn when your trying to shift becuase your holding onto the steering wheel to stay in place.
Also spend $500 to mod yourself and take performance driving lessons.
The mods you do to yourself will last forever. Your car will be gone in a few years.
Get a Good harness so you can stay in place and turn and shift when your supposed to, not turn when your trying to shift becuase your holding onto the steering wheel to stay in place.
Also spend $500 to mod yourself and take performance driving lessons.
The mods you do to yourself will last forever. Your car will be gone in a few years.
Originally posted by Speedlimit
Hi Dave,
One additional thought; the MBC's are quite stable and rarley spike, while EBC's are more prone to boost spikes induced by the electronics; the kiss principle works well here.
Buschur offers a "remote" controlled MBC which offers cabin adjustment and rock solid boost conrol.
Speedlimit..
Hi Dave,
One additional thought; the MBC's are quite stable and rarley spike, while EBC's are more prone to boost spikes induced by the electronics; the kiss principle works well here.

Buschur offers a "remote" controlled MBC which offers cabin adjustment and rock solid boost conrol.
Speedlimit..
Yep, the thing rocks big time!!
www.boostcontroller.com
Warning these are very large pictures, not modem friendly!!!
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That Hallman Evolution looks pretty sweet!! I didnt see the Buscher one on there website. I like the fact u can adjust from the cabin.
If I were to get a MBC, then later on decided to get a flahed ECU would that screw the ECU up?
If I were to get a MBC, then later on decided to get a flahed ECU would that screw the ECU up?
Originally posted by Daveyd
That Hallman Evolution looks pretty sweet!! I didnt see the Buscher one on there website. I like the fact u can adjust from the cabin.
If I were to get a MBC, then later on decided to get a flahed ECU would that screw the ECU up?
That Hallman Evolution looks pretty sweet!! I didnt see the Buscher one on there website. I like the fact u can adjust from the cabin.
If I were to get a MBC, then later on decided to get a flahed ECU would that screw the ECU up?
I'm not sure how the MBC has anything to do with the ECU since it's purely mechanical, bypassing the stock boost control solenoid.
How difficult is it to install a MBC?
Edit: Sorry, my second search I found some ok instructions in another thread. I guess I should be more specific and ask what this does to your warranty/is it reversible? Do any of the replacement/piggyback ECU's change the boost settings, negating the need for the MBC?
Thx
Edit: Sorry, my second search I found some ok instructions in another thread. I guess I should be more specific and ask what this does to your warranty/is it reversible? Do any of the replacement/piggyback ECU's change the boost settings, negating the need for the MBC?
Thx
Last edited by StreetPowerEvo; Jun 10, 2003 at 11:40 AM.
Originally posted by StreetPowerEvo
How difficult is it to install a MBC?
Edit: Sorry, my second search I found some ok instructions in another thread. I guess I should be more specific and ask what this does to your warranty/is it reversible? Do any of the replacement/piggyback ECU's change the boost settings, negating the need for the MBC?
Thx
How difficult is it to install a MBC?
Edit: Sorry, my second search I found some ok instructions in another thread. I guess I should be more specific and ask what this does to your warranty/is it reversible? Do any of the replacement/piggyback ECU's change the boost settings, negating the need for the MBC?
Thx
As far as the warranty is concerned, it will, in all likelyhood void the warranty IF the can prove the failure was directly attributed to the mod done. So if you detonate the motor and burn pistons/valves, etc. they may claim that running boost over the factory setting, heck, even at the factory setting since you bypassed the ECU's control over it, was enough to cause the failure.
Enough Rambling
Last edited by wkehn; Jun 10, 2003 at 01:08 PM.
Can the MBC be set by the vendor, or does it absolutely have to be done after it's installed on the car? I am getting an MBC tomorrow and I will get a hallman. I am planning on increasing the boost to 20psi and let it stay at around 18-19 at high RPMs. Is this safe? How about if I add a s-afc II?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Originally posted by BadBoyBeltran
Can the MBC be set by the vendor, or does it absolutely have to be done after it's installed on the car? I am getting an MBC tomorrow and I will get a hallman. I am planning on increasing the boost to 20psi and let it stay at around 18-19 at high RPMs. Is this safe? How about if I add a s-afc II?
Thanks!
Can the MBC be set by the vendor, or does it absolutely have to be done after it's installed on the car? I am getting an MBC tomorrow and I will get a hallman. I am planning on increasing the boost to 20psi and let it stay at around 18-19 at high RPMs. Is this safe? How about if I add a s-afc II?
Thanks!
My hallman is set to 20 psi daily driving on pump gas and I have no problems at all.
Changing the boost is something you can do easily by turning the knob. Clockwise is for more boost, counterclockwise less boost.
If you get the Evolution with the cockpit controller just crank the knob all the way out (counterclockwise) then find a nice straight stretch of road and make a nice 3rd gear pull. Turn the knob back clockwise at WOT and watch the boost increase (On the gauge of course so I hope you have one) then stop when you reach the desired setting.
I'm using a Hallman boost controller... It was fairly easy to install, actually, it was REALLY easy to install, its just hard to get at the hoses that run to the wastegate actuator and the turbo housing..
To answer your other question, although its tough to get at the location the stuff connects to, as long as you leave your original hoses to the solenoid intact, and tie them up out of the way (Plug them just in case to keep dirt out) you can put it back to stock should you get an ECU or flash your stock ECU that has better boost control, I don't know that I'd want to do the switch back and forth every time I took the car in for service though.. thats a PAIN.. I'd really like to see something controlled by the ECU soon.
ANYWAY I am now running about 19.5-20psi of boost (depends on weather) The hardest part of the install was setting the controller.. I had to adjust it about 6 times before I hit the boost setting I want.. but once its set, then its just fine-tuning.
An in-car cable for the Hallman is great if you can get the cable inside the car.. Its well worth it, but it complicates the install a little.
Just so you guys know, the boost controller at 19.5 psi, with an Apexi S-AFC actually made a huge difference at the top end.. I ran another brand new 2003 BMW M3 (apparently supercharged, though I dont know that this car is supercharged from the factory) and originally with my car stock this was a close race, (with a lazy launch), this time with the same launch, and gave him the same 1 car length lead.. I passed him at a significant rate of speed.
To answer your other question, although its tough to get at the location the stuff connects to, as long as you leave your original hoses to the solenoid intact, and tie them up out of the way (Plug them just in case to keep dirt out) you can put it back to stock should you get an ECU or flash your stock ECU that has better boost control, I don't know that I'd want to do the switch back and forth every time I took the car in for service though.. thats a PAIN.. I'd really like to see something controlled by the ECU soon.
ANYWAY I am now running about 19.5-20psi of boost (depends on weather) The hardest part of the install was setting the controller.. I had to adjust it about 6 times before I hit the boost setting I want.. but once its set, then its just fine-tuning.
An in-car cable for the Hallman is great if you can get the cable inside the car.. Its well worth it, but it complicates the install a little.
Just so you guys know, the boost controller at 19.5 psi, with an Apexi S-AFC actually made a huge difference at the top end.. I ran another brand new 2003 BMW M3 (apparently supercharged, though I dont know that this car is supercharged from the factory) and originally with my car stock this was a close race, (with a lazy launch), this time with the same launch, and gave him the same 1 car length lead.. I passed him at a significant rate of speed.



