lifter tap and loss power!
Dropping the oil pan is easier? I've dealt with the 4G63 for almost a decade and I can say with certainty that checking the filter is a lot quicker and easier than dropping the pan. And who has cut their finger off? Simple common sense should dictate that one should be careful when dealing with sharp metal. Ultimately dropping the pan would be needed if there seems to be metal, but there will always be small particles in the filter if a bearing has spun.
But dropping the sump will catch it earlier. Sump has area where oil doesn't get circulated through filter and the oil just collects there, even draining the oil leaves the stuff there. Unless you take corners hard all the time the stuff just collects and makes a good way to easily inspect wear.
I found my missing keys and $2.43 worth of change in the pan the other day
Funny huh? But back to the point, If lifter tick happens for no reason at all, e.g., same oil, cams haven't just been changed recently etc, it would be a good idea to send out a sample of oil to the lab, cut open your finger, and drop the pan.
I found my missing keys and $2.43 worth of change in the pan the other day
Funny huh? But back to the point, If lifter tick happens for no reason at all, e.g., same oil, cams haven't just been changed recently etc, it would be a good idea to send out a sample of oil to the lab, cut open your finger, and drop the pan.
Another cause of "lifter tapping"
This was the cause of my "lifter tap", Buddy Club 264 in cam. My best guess is that the case hardening process failed in this area and allowed the lifter arm to slowly gouge out this area. I thought it was 'lifter tap' until I went to replace the lifters and found this. I was losing power, not to mention the extra noise; It felt as though the knock sensor was pulling timing....I'm going with GSC S1's this time....
Last edited by Darkstar1; Aug 13, 2007 at 08:40 AM.
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