I know most people have there own thoughts on how you should break in a new motor(as I do also) but I would like to get some of your thoughts on how you think it should be done and most importantly what oil I should use for the break in process. The motor will have a small set of cams in it from the start(264-269) and it will eventually be primarly a track car.

 

nothing better than Mobil-1, then probably castrol or Quaker state

 

I didnt think it was good to break a car in on synthetics cause the rings wouldnt seat all the way..???? Eventually I will be running royal purple since I have had very good luck with it over the years and actually picked up power on the dyno.

 

When breaking in any engine I only follow the manufacturers recommendation.

 

lol I dont even know what mitsu's recommendations are? Also usually the manufacture recomends whats the absolute most conservative.

 

use standard oil on the first startup and change at 100 miles, use standard oil again and change at 1000 miles. you dont have to baby it in this period, despite popular belief. after that 1000 mile change, you can go back to using synthetic (and your regular oil change intervals) on the new motor.

 

this is what I have always done with sportbike/atv/dirtbikes motors I have built.
standard oil, change it 5 hours(about 100 miles for a car) change the filter and add oil at 10hours, change oil and filter at 20 hours and switch to synthetic. easy on the gas for the first hour, smooth on the gas and no redline till 5 hours, and no redline till 15 hours but some full throttle short shifted runs.

My plan for the new motor is, change at 100-200 miles, filter change only at 400miles, and oil and filter change at 7-800 then switch to royal purple at about 1200.

 

yes. that should be fine. i wouldnt be easy on the throttle especially in the first oil change because you want the rings to seat quickly. going WOT and engine braking down will seat them nicely

 

Here is the break in procedure:

0.) Prime oil pump by spinning it with a drill (timing belt should be disconnected). Verify that oil can be seen flowing into the head.

1.) Fill engine with with NON SYNETHETIC 10w30 oil (I like using pennzoil, but any crappy 10w30 mineral oil will do). Use a quality filter such as the purolator pure one, or the mobil 1.

2.) Upon starting the engine keep the RPM's at 3000 rpms for 20 minutes. Keep searching for leaks on the floor of the garage. After 20 minutes of 3000 rpms, shut the engine off and change the oil and filter. Replace with same non-synthetic 10w30 oil.

3.) Put 1000 miles on new engine. When first bringing car out on the road, STAY OUT OF BOOST. Get up to highway speeds and start varying the engine speeds by downshifting into different gears, do some traveling at 3000 rpm, then 5000 rpm, then at 6000 rpm, but STAY OUT OF BOOST. After a few miles of doing this, you are safe to start boosting the car, go WOT all you want, because the engine will be broken in at this point. After 1000 miles, change to your favorite synthetic.

I don't care what anyone says, you do not want to boost the engine until the rings have seated. You simply want high rev's so that the rings can wear in against the crosshatch on the cylinder walls (like sand paper smoothing out a rough edge). If you put high boost on a engine without seating the rings first, you will introduce high cylinder pressures to rings that are not fully seated, and this could result in very bad things happening to your expensive new engine, including excessive oil blow by (not good for your intercooler and piping).

 

Do a search. David Buschur wrote about this topic already a few weeks back.