boost4speed

What does a set up like this cost?

yahu

iTrader: (55)

http://www.buschurracing.com/upgrading.htm

Jrod@Buschur

iTrader: (101)

It is honestly going to vary on which different options you take along the way such as BOV, FMIC, cams, etc.... I would say roughly $3400 or so for the staged upgrades. Thats not including the clutch.

If you would like to discuss this a little more in depth please feel free to shoot me a PM. I'll be glad to help out.

DBPLAYA00

iTrader: (9)

look at fq400. it doesn't need studs and special valve train blah blah blah. just do the simple stuff. get some flow and a good tune. start with FP GREEN/20g-9lt
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Kc2Buk

iTrader: (6)

Great INFO and well written!!!

Jrod@Buschur

iTrader: (101)

After you do the staged upgrades.


Thank you sir!

RallyDave

boost controller+ 3" straight pipe with a cat + Autronic ECU and I'm making 330whp.

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

This is a very realistic goal. I am assuming on an EVO 9 correct?

Here are my mods that got me where you want to be.

- EVO Green
- stock intake
- nisei IC pipes
- stock IC is fine, but if you are "pushing it" for long periods of time it will heat soak, so then go with Bushur, AMS, Nisei, etc. . .
- stock BOV
- stock intake mani and head. You DON'T NEED valvetrain. With the cams you are going to run you can take it to the safe limit of the stock bottom end with the stocks valve springs . . .
- 650 or 750 cc injectors (may even be able to get away with stockers)
- GSC S1 cams
- ported stock exhaust manifold
- Works 02 housing (seen alot of boost creep issues with the eBay 02 housing when trying to run less than 23psi)
- Works downpipe
- test pipe
- cat back
- reflashed stock ECU

With these mods your car will drive just like a stock evo, except have alot more power. With the stock BOV and ECU and intake it will be extremely reliable. You can expect 350whp or more on a Dynojet with 93 octane, low-mid 400's on race gas.

EVOlutionary

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Good call on the clutch. I was only looking at power mods, but clutch, radiator, oil cooler, etc are all good for the type of racing the OP is doing. Race car prep isn't really the topic here, I'll just stick with power production.

The BR staged upgrades are great, but not everything in their stages are necessary. You don't need an intake pipe and open cone filter. They may add a bit of performance, but for your power goals are not necessary. Plus with an open intake you have to deal with heat issues. The stock intake pulls in nice cool clean air from the front of the car.

While a big FMIC is good, keep in mind that with some you HAVE to remove the front crash beam. Are you willing to do this? Also with some you HAVE to trim the undertray. Are you willing to do this? For the high speeds you will be racing I would recommend to NOT cut the front undertray unless you are going to be running a full custom splitter/undertray package.

Also, the BR UICP is made of steel. There is no reason an intercooler pipe should ever be made of steel. Aluminum is lighter.

Personally I don't like the column mount gauge pod because it can make it very difficult to see the fuel gauge. Mount your gauges in the dash or a-pillar.

As for cams, I stick by my recommendation of the GSC S1. I have yet to see the HKS 272's make better power. If anyone has seen better results with HKS please route me to the results.

EVOlutionary

Boltz.

iTrader: (42)

^ agreed. Valvetrain isn't necc when going high speeds for long periods of time. They basically have no direct correlation. Stock style turbo won't make power high enough to warrant valvetrain.

Ditto on aluminum I/C pipes. Ditto on the cams.

ARP studs aren't necc either, but if you like the peace of mind go for it. I've yet to hear of a stock style turbo stretching the stock studs and lifting the head. If it did happen, it probably was due to a tuning issue.

Slightly disagree on the open filter as it will gain top end power by decreasing taper.

Shouldn't need a clutch unless he is drag racing.

Jrod@Buschur

iTrader: (101)

The stock intake is a restriction. PERIOD! Its been proven time and time again. Its not even worth getting into a battle over. Wether is a K&N drop-in, swiss cheese holes in the top of the box, etc... its doesnt matter! Its a RESTRICTION of power. an open element filter is the way to go. Even some of the aftermarket intakes on the market show loss in power or no power gain at all such as the K&N typhoon.

Hot air...... What do you supposed that huge vent in the hood is for? Looks?

The ONLY FMIC upgrade that you have to modify or remove the crash bar is our Race core. The deluxe does not require any of that. It just requires MINOR trimming of the stock black under tray. The minor trimming that needs done will not have an effect on the high speed racing. Most guys that serious about racing run something that would fit anyway other than the jank stock piece.

You need to do a bit more research before you start spreading incorrect information. Dont you suppose after almost 20 years of doing this David has learned a few things about products, testing and what actually works? Aluminum is known to be lighter thats a no brainer. Aluminum also ABSORBS heat. Its been proven! In this case the stainless steel we use will not be much heavier at all. Do you know why we use polished stainless instead of the lightweight aluminum? Because it will DEFLECT the heat that is in the engine bay NOT ABSORB it.

Gauges can be mounted however the customer feels needed but how many actual gauges do you NEED? We offer plenty of different options that are discussed before placing an order. Your opinion wasnt really asked for last time I looked.

HKS cams work good. They always have. Plain and simple. Cosworth's do as well.

Jrod@Buschur

iTrader: (101)

Another wrong assumption on the intercooler piping!

I recommend APR headstuds at the same time of doing cams. You're in there why not do them at the same time?

No clutch if you arent drag racing? DEFINITELY not true. The stock clutches dont even like the STOCK power, let alone upgrades. It doesnt matter if you're road racing, auto crossing or drag racing a clutch is a GREAT upgrade in the Evo.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

I agree and as you notice Jarrod didn't suggest valvetrain mods. The stock springs will handle any rpm you need to run on a stock bottom end.

As for the i/c pipes, Jarrod is also right about that. The aluminum pipes heat much more quickly and transfer the heat up through the pipe much more quickly than stainless. The heat transfer of aluminum is much faster than stainless. There were tests done years ago about this subject and the reason we don't use aluminum for the i/c pipes is because of those studies. Our i/c pipes are made of a thin walled stainless, so while they are heavier than aluminum the amount of extra weight is minimal. Believe me, I am probably one of the largest weight fanatics on this site. The polished finish of our SS i/c pipes helps to reflect heat and keep the heat out of the pipe, the stainless helps to keep the cool charge inside the pipe and doesn't let the heat dissipate up the pipe like aluminum does.

As for an intercooler, the stock intercooler is not fine. It's barely fine on a bone stock EVO. Since you are running the beatrush undertray our race FMIC will work out fine and is the only intercooler I suggest of our 3, I figure if you are spending your money you may as well buy the best and get it over with.

Last but not least do a search in the forums for a study some engineers did on a flow bench of our open element filter compared to stock filter, K&N and the air box. After that find the thread from fourdoor about his testing (also an engineer) on the open element filter VS. the stock air box and VS an open element filter with a large shield built around it. The results aren't surprising to me, that's why we sell the open element filters.

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

To the Buschur crew, I'm not knocking your stuff. You have great parts that all make good power. Some people need every drop of power they can get. Some people don't - just a "good" powerband is OK.

In Vostok 7's case, he is not trying to make 420whp on a Mustang dyno. Sure, at 30psi and that airflow, the stock airbox may be a bit of a restriction, but running low boost on pump gas he just plain DOES NOT NEED an intake. Plus you will get significantly cooler, cleaner air pulling from the nose of the car than the hot engine bay.

Now as for the intercooler pipes, both the LICP and the lower section of the UICP are both below the hot engine bay in direct path of clean airflow. The air coming out of the turbo into the LICP will always be hotter than ambient. Therefore using a stainless pipe will hold that heat INSIDE the LICP, whereas an aluminum pipe will transfer more of that heat out of the LICP to the atmosphere. Same with the lower portion of the UICP.

Now for the upper portion of the UICP things get tricky. Jarrod @ BR used the argument for open intakes that at speed you had enough cool airflow through the engine bay that you weren't sucking in hot air. If this is the case then you just disproved the need for a stainless UICP because as you said there is plenty of cool air flowing through the engine bay and therefore the UICP will will be cooled by that air.

However, I disagree. Even if you have a steady flow of cool air the radiant heat off the manifold and engine is huge. You WILL have a higher intake temp with an open filter than with the stock airbox. All this heat will heat up whatever UICP you have, so the best bet is a light aluminum pipe that is ceramic coated. This will both save weight and keep the ICP from absorbing engine heat.

Back to the intercooler topic, if you don't care about the crash bar and are running an aftermarket undertray then I agree with Buschur - go for the race core. Even at extended high boost, at the speeds you're running I doubt you will be able to heat soak it.

When you have very specific goals for a race car, you need to be very specific with EVERY part you add to or modify on your car. Every part you change from stock comes with both a benefit and a compromise. I've been down the cookie cutter Stage route before, and while it is an absolutely great idea for many, it is not the best route for every consumer. That is why EVERY part that is on my car is there for a specific reason. If you don't NEED it to achieve your goals, don't put it on your car.

EVOlutionary

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

The airflow testing was done a flow bench by some engineers, rather than argueing the point........go check out the thread of the testing. The cooler air charge, also done by fourdoor on here, he is an engineer too, and found your informationt to be in correct........again, go check the threads and posts. I didn't do the testing it was done by others, so it's not me trying to make a sale.

I also think you have made a ton of wrong choices on your car by not going the "cookie cutter" route. I'd be glad to put a car up against yours in drag, autocross or whatever you choose to finally put an end to argueing with you.

Actually, it has been done already as if I remember correctly Trevor won' the WW3 event.