over heating issues seeking help!
over heating issues seeking help!
I have recently installed a 2.3 stroker and a gt37r all from ams its everything in my sig if you want to know everything i have done. anyways heres my problem, the car stays below the half way point on the water temp gauge then i will drive it for a little bit and it will be fine stay there maybe go up to half. now if i stay in a gear for a little bit up to maybe like 4k or so and just let off slowly obviously less air is traveling through the radiator so its going to get hotter. i slow down and it keeps climbing until i start moving again and it will start going down a little bit.
if i dont start moving again the temp will just climb and climb until the needle almost hits the H. Now i thought this was because i didnt have the front Rad fan on yet i only had the one thats in the engine bay attached to the radiator itself.
this morning i went out put the other fan back on took it out for a drive and bam its still doing the same thing. i pulled into my garage and got out and held the throttle open a little to see if i could get it to heat up again and possibly turn on the 2nd fan that i had just put on. the fan did not turn on until it was just about to overheat this meaning the needle was up just about the H again so quickly i turned the car off and just kept the key on which allows the 1st fan (one attached to the rad) stay on.
it seems like the only time the 2nd fan turns on is A. when it is just about to over heat and B. when you take the key out of the ignition it will flip on for like 15 seconds. I am running AEM EMS is there somewhere in there that i can change the temps that the fans come on at, if so what temps are good or maybe any clues to why my car is doing this.
And yes i have checked the coolant levels and it seems fine.
thanks
if i dont start moving again the temp will just climb and climb until the needle almost hits the H. Now i thought this was because i didnt have the front Rad fan on yet i only had the one thats in the engine bay attached to the radiator itself.
this morning i went out put the other fan back on took it out for a drive and bam its still doing the same thing. i pulled into my garage and got out and held the throttle open a little to see if i could get it to heat up again and possibly turn on the 2nd fan that i had just put on. the fan did not turn on until it was just about to overheat this meaning the needle was up just about the H again so quickly i turned the car off and just kept the key on which allows the 1st fan (one attached to the rad) stay on.
it seems like the only time the 2nd fan turns on is A. when it is just about to over heat and B. when you take the key out of the ignition it will flip on for like 15 seconds. I am running AEM EMS is there somewhere in there that i can change the temps that the fans come on at, if so what temps are good or maybe any clues to why my car is doing this.
And yes i have checked the coolant levels and it seems fine.
thanks
i just talked to someone at AMS they said i shouldnt even need the second fan as long as i have the one of the radiator. they also said i probably have an air bubble in my coolant system somewhere.
Is there some special way to bleed a coolant system that i have missed over my past few years of working on cars lol...
help me
Is there some special way to bleed a coolant system that i have missed over my past few years of working on cars lol...
help me
i just talked to someone at AMS they said i shouldnt even need the second fan as long as i have the one of the radiator. they also said i probably have an air bubble in my coolant system somewhere.
Is there some special way to bleed a coolant system that i have missed over my past few years of working on cars lol...
help me
Is there some special way to bleed a coolant system that i have missed over my past few years of working on cars lol...
help meuhh... What? evo's stock come with 2 fans! the second one cuts on when either the AC is on or when the themostat opens ( I believe)
no im pretty sure the head gasket is fine. its not leaking anywhere and i was very careful when i put the motor together to not mess up the head gasket. i just went out and tried to bleed the system just by leaving the rad cap off. a good amount of bubbles came up and after 10 minutes there really wernt that many so i put the cap on took it down the road a few times bam temp started to rise pretty high again.
came back to my garage took off the cap after a few minutes of letting it cool down started the car up to again to try and bleed it and then again the temp started to rise and rise.
im lost. i am going to go buy an actual bleed cap from advanced and try that!
came back to my garage took off the cap after a few minutes of letting it cool down started the car up to again to try and bleed it and then again the temp started to rise and rise.
im lost. i am going to go buy an actual bleed cap from advanced and try that!
Did you put brand new ARP's in? If so did you warm cycle them then re-tourqe them?
If not you may very well have a gap between the head and the block which is pushing air into the cooling system.
Check your oil for coolant. Is the level of coolant going down? Is your water pump working? Can you see movement in the rad cap?
If not you may very well have a gap between the head and the block which is pushing air into the cooling system.
Check your oil for coolant. Is the level of coolant going down? Is your water pump working? Can you see movement in the rad cap?
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i re-used my arps, the head is tourqed down correctly, the coolant level would go down a little bit when i had the cap off and i was letting it idle to try and get the air out. it would fall down to bellow the filling neck of the rad then i would fill it up a little and a few minutes later it would go down again. it only did this like twice in a 10-14 minute period of letting it sit there and idle. there is no movement in the rad cap it is on tight!
as far as the pump i just rebuilt the motor less than 100 miles ago and i had it off and looked at it along with the oil pump and everything seemed to be very clean and in working order.
i dont know if this matters but i doubt it, for my aux. belt that runs the water pump and stuff i have a 5 tooth belt and not a 6 tooth it still works fine just not as wide by maybe 3 hairs lol.
i dont know if this matters but i doubt it, for my aux. belt that runs the water pump and stuff i have a 5 tooth belt and not a 6 tooth it still works fine just not as wide by maybe 3 hairs lol.
wat ratio of radiator fluid r u using? try more distilled water, alil less radiator fluid. also add water wetter. not sure if this will totally fix ur issue but it will help.
Temp is rising fast because there is air in there and the water near the thermometer just heats.
I bet if you turn the heater on the temp guage will barely warm up, don't use this as a indicater the eng is cool but use it to confirm the fluid isn't circulating.
Either too low or not circulating
I bet if you turn the heater on the temp guage will barely warm up, don't use this as a indicater the eng is cool but use it to confirm the fluid isn't circulating.
Either too low or not circulating
a friend of mine running drop in pistons + rods and running a BR 35r is having the exact same issues. I cant believe how easily vendors on here suggest that the rad. fan can be either removed completely or a slim line fan can be had for 'extra' safety.
this is the second car that I have seen have issues, the other one was a HKS3037 kit on a stock motor. It also had rising temps. while idling. I'd suggest putting a fan controller coz thts wht we did. Btw, both these cars were running on Apexi Pfc.
this is the second car that I have seen have issues, the other one was a HKS3037 kit on a stock motor. It also had rising temps. while idling. I'd suggest putting a fan controller coz thts wht we did. Btw, both these cars were running on Apexi Pfc.
Temp is rising fast because there is air in there and the water near the thermometer just heats.
I bet if you turn the heater on the temp guage will barely warm up, don't use this as a indicater the eng is cool but use it to confirm the fluid isn't circulating.
Either too low or not circulating
I bet if you turn the heater on the temp guage will barely warm up, don't use this as a indicater the eng is cool but use it to confirm the fluid isn't circulating.
Either too low or not circulating
i tried water with a little coolant and a bottle of water wetter still the same issue it heated up real fast kept dumping in water because i completely drained the system so im guessing it was just low. it idled for like 15 20 minutes with no problem temp gauge looked fine THENN the craziest issh happened ahaha
sooo its fine temp looks good, i turn on my lights and bam right then the temp starts to rise and i mean fast its goin goin goin up almost to the H shut off the lights temp starts dropping right back down do this a few more times does the same thing.
could my gauge be reading funny because of an electrical issue such as a ground or something and my car really is not about to over heat??
this is weird because when i got back to my house and changed the coolant and added water a little coolant and water wetter within 5 minutes the gauge was reading super high but the coolant lines and stuff were just getting warm not hot at all!!
when i say gauge i mean stock gauge in the cluster btw

thanks for the input fellas
went and got the right cable for my aem ems, plugged it in the gauge started to go up to the top but the ems was only reading 185 degree temp, im going to go ahead and say there is an electrical issue with my coolant temp gauge! anybody know where i should look for this!
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