First Mod?? {devil}
First Mod??
Whats up..Ive had my EVO close to a month and have been doing some research on mods...Im strongly considering the HKS Suction kit as my first mod...Im aware of the bad reviews regarding the HKS filter but I think people forget or are unaware that those filters are disposable and not meant to be washed. I was also thinking about putting in a bov but read that the stock one sounds way better with an after market filter. The one thing I was worried about is the warranty. I read the thread which stated that the dealer must honor the warranty if the malfunction was not caused by after market mods and was wondering if there was any info available on what mods you are allowed to do. Do Ralliart mods void the warranty and if not where can I find them ( In English..please ...spanish would work to). Thanks
Im confused, what does the stock bov have to due with a filter. My car makes no such noise. Are you referring to the intake? That would make sense because the bov on the evoviii does not vent to the atmosphere, thus no noise. Right??
Understandable. I have not yet completed any mods with my intake or bov at this time. I used to own an Eclipse GST and changed out the bov and the intake. The intake allowed a larger whoosh sound with the turbo spooling up, but had no affect on any sound with the bov. The only time that changed was when I actually got an aftermarket bov with HKS. I vented that to the atmosphere which sounded pretty mean. As before, the evoviii currently has a recirculating bov, no sound there. Hope that helps.
yes the stock unit does make a noise with a cone filter.... and yes it does leak boost, i hear the forge unit workes well... i love HKS, but dont recommend the sbov for the evo
-shahul
-shahul
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I personally like the forge BOV. I have some in stock for great prices too and most customers seem to love them !! No, I am not trying to push them, it was just relavent (sp?) to the discussion to state that they are loved by the customers who buy them. They work great and have a great sound too! Oh and less leaking than the other ones that i've seen , especially stock!
Last edited by DRC Imports; Jul 4, 2003 at 03:47 PM.
Originally posted by EVOPILOT214
The stock bov leaks boost all the time or after a cone filter is installed??? And which bov would you guys recommend??
The stock bov leaks boost all the time or after a cone filter is installed??? And which bov would you guys recommend??
Regardless, over a period of time the stock plastic unit will probably need replacing sooner or later anyway. A nice unit like the Forge recirc is good preventative step to avoiding future problems.
JNR
Those foam filters are mediocre. Not very good at filtering, anyway. On the MLR forums, someone tested all the filters. Apex'i filtered the best. Also, SHiv suggested that a different intake can cause the MAF to read things differently, causing lean conditions at certain points in the powerband. I would go with downpipe and/or exhaust first. I'll put a cone filter on once I get a dyno tune (once I get the Evo
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Hey OZ how much we talking for that forge bov...and how does that affect my warranty.....Do the intake piping kits make much of a difference ..and I dont mean to sound stupid but is RMR a Ralliart product....Ralliart is covered under warranty....correct???
BTW- As far as bang-for-the-buck mods go you might consider just having your ECU re-flashed by Works or RMR. This mod is an easy $450 path to 26 whp (Works)for the 93 octane version bringing your car up to the 300 crank hp mark.
The car will look and sound stock, but run a lot stronger especially in the mid-upper rpm range. I just installed mine last week and it was well worth the money.The perfect stealth mod, that can be re-flashed in stages to optimize other mods added later.
If warranty is a concern, remember that any pre-cat exhaust mods like the DP, header, or test pipes will be issues for warranty. A cone type air filter, turbo inlet pipe,I/C piping, and even an aftermarket dv/bov will also be engine bay stand-outs indicating your car has been modded.
Pretty easy to demod though, I suppose, as long as you don't mind re-doing your work periodically.
BTW- RMR and Ralliart are two different companies.
Here's a link for RMR http://www.rmrproducts.com/home.htm
Until MMC decides to start selling Ralliart performance products through US dealerships, none of the Ralliart "hard parts" would be considered under warranty.
JNR
The car will look and sound stock, but run a lot stronger especially in the mid-upper rpm range. I just installed mine last week and it was well worth the money.The perfect stealth mod, that can be re-flashed in stages to optimize other mods added later.
If warranty is a concern, remember that any pre-cat exhaust mods like the DP, header, or test pipes will be issues for warranty. A cone type air filter, turbo inlet pipe,I/C piping, and even an aftermarket dv/bov will also be engine bay stand-outs indicating your car has been modded.
Pretty easy to demod though, I suppose, as long as you don't mind re-doing your work periodically.
BTW- RMR and Ralliart are two different companies.
Here's a link for RMR http://www.rmrproducts.com/home.htm
Until MMC decides to start selling Ralliart performance products through US dealerships, none of the Ralliart "hard parts" would be considered under warranty.
JNR
I agree with N10S. Before you start having to worry about BOVs and added boost and upgraded turbos and such, there is a much easier, cheaper and more efficient path to go down.
Consider all the HP waiting to be freed in the intake and exhaust. By changing the intake, downpipe and exhaust, you can free up about 50-60 hp. After changing that, get the ECU reflashed for another 30 or so hp. If that still isn't enough, then start looking into upgraded turbos, cams, etc. But then prepare to $$$$...
I have done all of the mods above (using RMR parts) as well as hardpiping my intercooler. My car makes 300 whp on the dyno (which translates to about 350-360 bhp).
It runs perfectly, no stutters, at a steady 900 rpm idle.
Consider all the HP waiting to be freed in the intake and exhaust. By changing the intake, downpipe and exhaust, you can free up about 50-60 hp. After changing that, get the ECU reflashed for another 30 or so hp. If that still isn't enough, then start looking into upgraded turbos, cams, etc. But then prepare to $$$$...
I have done all of the mods above (using RMR parts) as well as hardpiping my intercooler. My car makes 300 whp on the dyno (which translates to about 350-360 bhp).
It runs perfectly, no stutters, at a steady 900 rpm idle.


