Rear Diff/Mustache Bushing
Oct 9, 2007, 08:11 PM
#16
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can someone post a link for the differential bushings?
i got the AMS rear trailing arm bushings and a full engine bushings kit after destroying one of my axles due to wheel hop at the track but i want to further upgrade my rear axle...
Should i do the bushings of the AMS or Buschur moustahce bar?
i got the AMS rear trailing arm bushings and a full engine bushings kit after destroying one of my axles due to wheel hop at the track but i want to further upgrade my rear axle...
Should i do the bushings of the AMS or Buschur moustahce bar?
Oct 9, 2007, 08:13 PM
#18
can someone post a link for the differential bushings?
i got the AMS rear trailing arm bushings and a full engine bushings kit after destroying one of my axles due to wheel hop at the track but i want to further upgrade my rear axle...
Should i do the bushings of the AMS or Buschur moustahce bar?
i got the AMS rear trailing arm bushings and a full engine bushings kit after destroying one of my axles due to wheel hop at the track but i want to further upgrade my rear axle...
Should i do the bushings of the AMS or Buschur moustahce bar?
Oct 9, 2007, 08:14 PM
#19
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I am drag racing it for this first time this Friday, but have done some spirited driving and have not heard any clunks whatsoever.
Oct 9, 2007, 08:52 PM
#23
for your reference sir:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=86
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&postcount=89
AMS makes delrin trailing arm bushings too, but I decided on ES cuz it was way cheaper than the $75 AMS was charging
BTW I got all my Energy Suspension bushings from www.summitracing.com
They seemed to have the best pricing
Last edited by Blue Evo 8; Oct 9, 2007 at 08:55 PM.
Oct 9, 2007, 09:12 PM
#26
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yeah if you look in AMS's thread there are install instructions posted on installing their rear diff bushing piece.... the charge 3-4 hours labor to install this, which imho, is too much time and money...
for your reference sir:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=86
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&postcount=89
Yeah you can do the BR rear mustache bar, and just do the ES rear diff carrier bushing set and the ES rear trailing arm bushing upgrade.
AMS makes delrin trailing arm bushings too, but I decided on ES cuz it was way cheaper than the $75 AMS was charging
BTW I got all my Energy Suspension bushings from www.summitracing.com
They seemed to have the best pricing
for your reference sir:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=86
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&postcount=89
Yeah you can do the BR rear mustache bar, and just do the ES rear diff carrier bushing set and the ES rear trailing arm bushing upgrade.
AMS makes delrin trailing arm bushings too, but I decided on ES cuz it was way cheaper than the $75 AMS was charging
BTW I got all my Energy Suspension bushings from www.summitracing.com
They seemed to have the best pricing
Oct 9, 2007, 09:20 PM
#30
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My bad...
Power shifting (a.k.a. speed shifting)
This is an advanced technique that gives a speed boost to the car when upshifting. This should only be used in racing applications (and probably only in very short races), as it is very hard on drivetrain components, especially if done improperly. Even done properly, it generally puts undue stress on the drivetrain, and shortens the lifespan of the driveline components.
To perform a power shift, keep the gas pedal on the floor (instead of lifting) while pushing in the clutch. At the same time, quickly shift to the next gear. Quickly re-engage ("pop") the clutch as soon as the new gear is selected. If done properly, the car will receive a "bump" in acceleration (due to the jerk of the decelerating engine) as the clutch is re-engaged. If done improperly, it can result in engine or transmission damage, sometimes catastrophic.
Shifting without the clutch
It is possible to shift gears without using the clutch at all, by careful throttle manipulation. When transmissions were unsynchronized this was usually the easiest method, and still works in modern cars, although it requires a lot more practice than the usual methods described above.
Although the technique works in synchronized gearboxes, it is inappropriate in nearly all circumstances. A synchronized gearbox has a small clutch called a synchronizer (or "synchro") in every forward gear which brings the input and output rotation to the same speed before allowing them to engage. Like the main clutch, these synchronizing clutches use friction. These synchronizing clutches will allow for a margin of error when engaging without the main clutch. If the engine speed is somewhat too high or too low, the synchro will essentially take on the job that the fully engaged main clutch isn't doing. However, a synchro ring is not intended to do the job of a main clutch. Its job is to spin up or spin down just the input part of the transmission that is assumed to be disconnected from the engine. It is not intended to speed up or slow down the entire engine. Such experimentation done on a regular basis will prematurely wear out the synchro rings, which will have to be replaced.
On cars with a freewheel, such as the older SAAB with a two-stroke engine, shifting without the clutch is standard procedure. But actually, the freewheel is a form of clutch: one that is disengaged whenever the input rotation is slower than then output rotation. One must disengage the freewheel by allowing the engine revolutions to drop, which is analogous to pressing the clutch pedal.
Power shifting (a.k.a. speed shifting)
This is an advanced technique that gives a speed boost to the car when upshifting. This should only be used in racing applications (and probably only in very short races), as it is very hard on drivetrain components, especially if done improperly. Even done properly, it generally puts undue stress on the drivetrain, and shortens the lifespan of the driveline components.
To perform a power shift, keep the gas pedal on the floor (instead of lifting) while pushing in the clutch. At the same time, quickly shift to the next gear. Quickly re-engage ("pop") the clutch as soon as the new gear is selected. If done properly, the car will receive a "bump" in acceleration (due to the jerk of the decelerating engine) as the clutch is re-engaged. If done improperly, it can result in engine or transmission damage, sometimes catastrophic.
Shifting without the clutch
It is possible to shift gears without using the clutch at all, by careful throttle manipulation. When transmissions were unsynchronized this was usually the easiest method, and still works in modern cars, although it requires a lot more practice than the usual methods described above.
Although the technique works in synchronized gearboxes, it is inappropriate in nearly all circumstances. A synchronized gearbox has a small clutch called a synchronizer (or "synchro") in every forward gear which brings the input and output rotation to the same speed before allowing them to engage. Like the main clutch, these synchronizing clutches use friction. These synchronizing clutches will allow for a margin of error when engaging without the main clutch. If the engine speed is somewhat too high or too low, the synchro will essentially take on the job that the fully engaged main clutch isn't doing. However, a synchro ring is not intended to do the job of a main clutch. Its job is to spin up or spin down just the input part of the transmission that is assumed to be disconnected from the engine. It is not intended to speed up or slow down the entire engine. Such experimentation done on a regular basis will prematurely wear out the synchro rings, which will have to be replaced.
On cars with a freewheel, such as the older SAAB with a two-stroke engine, shifting without the clutch is standard procedure. But actually, the freewheel is a form of clutch: one that is disengaged whenever the input rotation is slower than then output rotation. One must disengage the freewheel by allowing the engine revolutions to drop, which is analogous to pressing the clutch pedal.