Evos acting wierd an i need help :( battery problems
Nov 18, 2007, 07:32 PM
#16
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Yeah, but what voltage? It should be around 14 Volts very low in RPM's unless there is a short somewhere. That's why I suggested doing the no battery test in my earlier post. If you don't fell like doing it you can always take it to Autozone as somebody else also said
Nov 19, 2007, 03:40 PM
#18
Don't do the battery test...pulling the battery cable off when the car is running causes a voltage spike and will make sure you need an alternator when you have finished ...it fries the diodes...These used to be a good test when you had external regulators but not today!...Follow what the others have said and take your battery in to be tested the rt way..
Nov 19, 2007, 04:54 PM
#19
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Don't do the battery test...pulling the battery cable off when the car is running causes a voltage spike and will make sure you need an alternator when you have finished ...it fries the diodes...These used to be a good test when you had external regulators but not today!...Follow what the others have said and take your battery in to be tested the rt way..
Last edited by iturregui; Nov 20, 2007 at 03:52 AM. Reason: Edited to reformulate the question as it was ambiguous
Nov 20, 2007, 05:12 AM
#20
I didn't post to disparage you... I am not trying to be rt.., I am posting what I know to be true... I think if you rephased your question you find your answer...How are the diodes fried when you open the charging circuit? The most basic answer: Breaking the circuit will cause the spike both disconnecting and connecting.. Your alternator jumps from no load to full load and back when you disconnect and reconnect... Thats the voltage spike that can cause your diodes to fail. Hope this helps..Like I mentioned earlier, the "battery test" was great for older cars--thru the 70's, charging systems are much more complicated and sensitive not to mention expensive then they used to be.. My point is..why risk a 2-300 dollar part to test a 50.00 battery... There are better ways. Regards,
Nov 20, 2007, 06:30 AM
#21
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I didn't post to disparage you... I am not trying to be rt.., I am posting what I know to be true... I think if you rephased your question you find your answer...How are the diodes fried when you open the charging circuit? The most basic answer: Breaking the circuit will cause the spike both disconnecting and connecting.. Your alternator jumps from no load to full load and back when you disconnect and reconnect... Thats the voltage spike that can cause your diodes to fail. Hope this helps..Like I mentioned earlier, the "battery test" was great for older cars--thru the 70's, charging systems are much more complicated and sensitive not to mention expensive then they used to be.. My point is..why risk a 2-300 dollar part to test a 50.00 battery... There are better ways. Regards,
Anyhow, you are right about testing the battery in a shop, but I don't think you are right about the load to no-load spike. If you disconnect the battery with the engine running, there is going to be a change in load, but is not going to go no-load, as the whole car in that moment is using the alternator-supplied power. The regulator should "regulate" that voltage by adjusting the field current. If the regulator is fried for some other reasons, there is not going to be any voltage from the alternator and the engine will shut down.
I think that the OP's regulator is fried, but I don't know if he is running a big stereo or some other aftermarket electric gadget that might be faulty and drawing a lot of current, like a short that has not completely happened yet, thus draining battery and overlaoding the alternator.
Thanks for your answer to my question though
Nov 20, 2007, 07:44 AM
#22
Iturrequi---Fair enough and I appreciate your response.. I do agree with you by the way and in theory that works, I have had and seen the opposite happen when I ran parts stores years ago.... But thats secondary here.. You are right there is a lot we dont know about his set up... the rest is conjecture. Thx for keeping it civil... regards, M
Nov 20, 2007, 08:59 AM
#25
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ITS NOT YOUR ALTERNATOR!!!
you must have removed the wire from your battery and replace it with another wire
if this is correct and if I am right, pm me and I will tell you whats really wrong
but I am 100% sure its not your alternator
you must have removed the wire from your battery and replace it with another wire
if this is correct and if I am right, pm me and I will tell you whats really wrong
but I am 100% sure its not your alternator
Last edited by redteam22003; Nov 20, 2007 at 09:03 AM.
Nov 20, 2007, 09:02 AM
#26
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Can you explain more about the wire thing redteam? My 1998 Cadillac ETC has this problem where a new battery and a new alternator didn't fix it, it still loses its charge after driving it a while, so I'm thinking possibly your wire thing may apply? 
EDIT: nvm I understand what it says now :/ I have all of the wires hooked up properly so I guess that wouldnt matter
EDIT: nvm I understand what it says now :/ I have all of the wires hooked up properly so I guess that wouldnt matter
Last edited by BIOHazard87; Nov 20, 2007 at 09:21 AM.
