Don't think so.

Scorke

 

Depends on materials and stroke:
Lightweighted rods (+pistons/pins+crank)=faster revs
shorter stroke = higher rev limits

If you want to do this safer (and allmost perfect):
-use trimetalic racing (and coated) bearings
-replace main bolts with a stronger set (align honing)

 

will i need bearings?
or anything else for this build?

 

my engine has 18,750miles...recently checked compression and its perfect (knock on wood).
just for reference...

also ...what else do you recommend i change while the engine is out?

 

Ofcourse.Dont forget to have your crank balanced also,if u arenot planning to go with a new better one

oil & water pumps / o-ringed deck / head studs

 

how will i know which bearings to use...i am going with the JE/Crower combo and where to purchase from..i cant seem to find them with the vendors i deal with..

also...whats an o-ringed deck?

i already have head studs.

thanks

 

If u dont know how to order them,just make a call to one of vendors here(Buschur,AMS ect)

This is an o-ringed block-U need the correct head gasket (call a vendor about this too):

 

thanks E7...really appreciate it...
now i am having thoughts of manning up and having a vendor build my block and send it to me...perhaps a stroker if i decided to do so.

 

Im going with a 2.0L rotating assembly from Jackson Auto Machine. It consists of Oliver Rods, Custom 8.5 comp. Venolia Pistons, ACL race coated bearings, brand new crank etc. I preferred this balanced rotating assembly over other options since we dont have any balancing shops here in Pakistan. Im also getting a fluidampr. Hope that helps.

 

That is a very good choice - top hardware and proven machining/assembly.

 

does JAM require a core?
it costs me an arm and a leg to ship my short block all the way to them...:!!

 

Not true. The higher the RPM, the greater the load on the rod and bolt.

Think of what happens to the rod bolts during the exhaust stroke then just after TDC (intake stroke). They are stressed because the rod is pulling on the piston to make it change direction...not to mention that the piston will reach a speed of about 144 feet per second on your typical 2.3L stroker @ 8000 RPM. This also applies to the wrist pin.

 

Since when is the rod bolt not part of the rotating assembly?

Scorke

 

Lightweight rods= faster revs not higher revs theres a difference. Less weight means less loss from having to spin them, it also means more power, I do not believe the weight has much to do with the rev limit, the strength does. Every rod out there is capable of 9k+ i would assume.

Stroke does effect rev limit, I do agree.

Scorke

 

JAM can do it either way you sending in the core or you just buying the block out right. They do some great work there. Great C/S as well. I really do think your best choice is to get a built block shipped to you.

Just a quick tip if you do buy a block out right have them use oem bore and not .20so you can get a few uses out of it. Then when you get a chance just send your block out to get rebuilt so if one goes down you got a back up.

Good luck with your build. And go get them lambos and enzo's