Tre Rear Differential Upgrade Service
People I am a one man operation and while I try to answer every dogdamn phone call I do miss some.
Send me an email with your questions and remember to include your phone number I will get back to you as soon as I can.
There are some new parts available for the rear differential too.
Remember to send an email and include your phone number because I rarely have time to read peoples post on this forum.
Thanks for the space!
Jon@TRE
Send me an email with your questions and remember to include your phone number I will get back to you as soon as I can.
There are some new parts available for the rear differential too.
Remember to send an email and include your phone number because I rarely have time to read peoples post on this forum.
Thanks for the space!

Jon@TRE
Last edited by coolguyuno1; Nov 24, 2010 at 01:12 PM.
People I am a one man operation and while I try to answer every dogdamn phone call I do miss some.
Send me an email with your questions and remember to include your phone number I will get back to you as soon as I can.
There are some new parts available for the rear differential too.
Remember to send an email and include your phone number because I rarely have time to read peoples post on this forum.
Thanks for the space!
Jon@TRE
Send me an email with your questions and remember to include your phone number I will get back to you as soon as I can.
There are some new parts available for the rear differential too.
Remember to send an email and include your phone number because I rarely have time to read peoples post on this forum.
Thanks for the space!

Jon@TRE
Like he said - one man operation, not some newbie cutting his or her teeth on my gears!!!
+1 Jon is a very friendly and knowledgable guy to talk with and I trust his work and attention to detail. In fact, I had a nice 45 minute conversation with him yesterday afternoon. My rear diff and trans are getting shipped out to him for complete build/upgrades in 2 weeks to support my new 2.4L build.
He does great work... been running his tranny/Xfer for years. However, his greatest attribute is his greatest downfall. He WILL spend 45mins (or MUCH more) on the phone with a customer explaining A to Z. That makes it hard for others to get a word in edgewise. I need to find the time/down time to send him my rear diff to make my TRE drivetrain complete.
i got my rear diff back from Jon at TRE a couple days ago and am very anxious to try it out,as far as downtime goes i could see where it might get frustrating for a guy that dd his car but when i opened the box i thought he made a mistake,****in thing looks brand new with the sight hole and all,awesome job!i thought he sent me someone elses diff lol,anyone know how the max lock diff would work with a gsc 40/60 center diff?my turn around was between 3-4 weeks which i thought was fine considering they send you the box then you send it back with your diff,they do the work and resend it back to you,i would recommend the service to anyone
Back then:
Today:
http://www.teamrip.com/rear_differen...roceedure.html
Seems to be a tad contraditory, but naturally the later information is better.
I'm going to hit 500 miles this Saturday, at which point, I"ll change the oil and go for a drive in the mountains for some more fun break-in time.
Question: how easy should I take it during that second 500 miles? 75% load/throttle OK? I'm not talking about clutch dumps or drag racing, I never do them anyway, but canyon carving, perhaps a little drift here and there. Should I continue to heat cycle, taking regular cool-down stops? Should I create a schedule interpolated between the very specific 0 to 100 mile instructions and an assumption of no limitations at 2000 miles?
I've searched for this discussion for an hour and not found it at this site, which surprizes me.
Opinions? Help me out here. It's hard to drive these cars like grandma so I'm trying to be careful but not over do it.
There is little need for taking it easy on this upgrade other than to get yourself used to how the car behaves. You will want to take it easy until you have explored your EVOs new personality and get the hang of driving an EVO that no longer pushes with understeer when you have the throttle mashed.
Enjoy and thanks for the space
Enjoy and thanks for the space

The greatest damage to any new ring & pinion gearset usually occurs during the first thousand miles. During this time, the new gears are bedding-in which generates quite a bit of heat and if driven hard you will raise this temperature even further and may cause irreversible damage to the gears. This is because the gears need some run-time to allow the machine surface finish to wear itself to its final match. The ring & pinion gears are now lapped in but they still must have sufficient run-time to allow the surface finish to properly develop.
Over the course of a few thousand miles the gears will bed-in, increasing the load bearing surface area while polishing themselves up nicely to where they are smooth and shiny. This improved MSF (machine surface finish) reduces the heat that is generated and the larger load bearing contact area increases the overall durability of the gearset. It is wise to let the transfer case ring & pinion gears bed-in before pushing them to their material limits. This process takes about 3000 miles before the ring & pinion have fully bedded in. Think it takes only 500 miles? WRONG! It takes much longer than you think. If you take apart a freshly rebuilt rear differential after 500 miles the gears hardly show any signs of bedding in.
Over the course of a few thousand miles the gears will bed-in, increasing the load bearing surface area while polishing themselves up nicely to where they are smooth and shiny. This improved MSF (machine surface finish) reduces the heat that is generated and the larger load bearing contact area increases the overall durability of the gearset. It is wise to let the transfer case ring & pinion gears bed-in before pushing them to their material limits. This process takes about 3000 miles before the ring & pinion have fully bedded in. Think it takes only 500 miles? WRONG! It takes much longer than you think. If you take apart a freshly rebuilt rear differential after 500 miles the gears hardly show any signs of bedding in.
Recommend procedure for breaking-in your ring & pinion:
Vehicle speeds should stay below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. Drive the vehicle 10-20 miles, stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Repeat this process at least 5 times before driving the vehicle at highway speeds. Do not abuse or dump the clutch or do any hard acceleration, let the ring & pinion bed-in gently. If you take it easy on a new ring & pinion and perform regular oil changes it will last much longer.
Seems to be a tad contraditory, but naturally the later information is better.
I'm going to hit 500 miles this Saturday, at which point, I"ll change the oil and go for a drive in the mountains for some more fun break-in time.
Question: how easy should I take it during that second 500 miles? 75% load/throttle OK? I'm not talking about clutch dumps or drag racing, I never do them anyway, but canyon carving, perhaps a little drift here and there. Should I continue to heat cycle, taking regular cool-down stops? Should I create a schedule interpolated between the very specific 0 to 100 mile instructions and an assumption of no limitations at 2000 miles?
I've searched for this discussion for an hour and not found it at this site, which surprizes me.
Opinions? Help me out here. It's hard to drive these cars like grandma so I'm trying to be careful but not over do it.
Here's the ridiculous schedule I came up with:
For Max Max Cool Max
Mile Speed Distance Down Load
100 60 20 30 10%
200 70 60 25 15.0%
300 75 100 20 20.0%
400 80 140 15 25.0%
500 86 180 12 30.0%
600 92 220 10 35.0%
700 98 260 8 40.0%
800 104 300 6 45.0%
900 110 340 5 50.0%
1000 116 380 4 55.0%
1100 122 420 3 60.0%
1200 128 460 3 65.0%
1300 134 500 2 70.0%
1400 140 540 2 75.0%
1500 146 580 1 80.0%
1600 152 620 1 85.0%
1700 158 660 1 90.0%
1800 164 700 1 95.0%
1900 170 740 1 100.0%
feel free to mock.
For Max Max Cool Max
Mile Speed Distance Down Load
100 60 20 30 10%
200 70 60 25 15.0%
300 75 100 20 20.0%
400 80 140 15 25.0%
500 86 180 12 30.0%
600 92 220 10 35.0%
700 98 260 8 40.0%
800 104 300 6 45.0%
900 110 340 5 50.0%
1000 116 380 4 55.0%
1100 122 420 3 60.0%
1200 128 460 3 65.0%
1300 134 500 2 70.0%
1400 140 540 2 75.0%
1500 146 580 1 80.0%
1600 152 620 1 85.0%
1700 158 660 1 90.0%
1800 164 700 1 95.0%
1900 170 740 1 100.0%
feel free to mock.
I would move the 1000 mile mark to 500 miles, and keep it out of boost below 500, and call it good after 1,000 miles. That's what I did since I pulled the inspection cover off the tcase and found an already pretty well developed wear pattern on the ring gear. I have since put almost another 1,000 miles on it, so it's going to get another fluid change this weekend and I'll take a look at the tcase gears again..
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Nov 19, 2014 at 09:02 AM.
He's hit or miss on both lol. Sometimes you wont get an email response after a few tries, then he'll call a week after your last email. Some times you get an email back. And sometimes you call and he answers. His voicemail is always full, so I've never left a message if he doesn't pick up..






