Highest Boost on Stock Motor?
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From: 25+ psi of boost
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Originally posted by aw4g63
A 4g63 is very competent of making suck power peteS4.
Well the whole higher boost = high intake temps isn’t really true.
Between larger turbos, intercooler cores water injection, NO2 and proper tuning you can yield power till your empty wallets on Ebay.
A 4g63 is very competent of making suck power peteS4.
Well the whole higher boost = high intake temps isn’t really true.
Between larger turbos, intercooler cores water injection, NO2 and proper tuning you can yield power till your empty wallets on Ebay.
I should probably explain that I tend to go more for true streetable / long term reliable setups. The kind of cars even my mother could get in and just drive or that I can push for 20-30 minute at a track session all weekend. So to me things like water injection and NO2 are more for the drap strip than anything else. I also have to think that a turbo big enough to supply close to 30 PSI/2 BAR with decent air volume is going to have quite a bit of lag. There is such a car from the S4 world:
http://www.ktrperformance.com/galler...S4/s4_main.htm
According to some people who saw it at a recent car show, the builders are expecting 1000-1200 HP out of it. Nice, but I also have to say so what. It took tons of money to build, I can't drive it to work, and it probably wouldn't last a track session with out needing attention. Would I be incorrect in assuming that a 4g63 producing something like 700 HP is in the same boat?
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally posted by Jim Swantko
Kevin,
If you bump up the boost I'ld throw some race fuel in just for a little extra safety. If I were you I'd spring for some 110 over 103. By the time you mix 103 with 93 the gains aren't nearly as significant as they are with 110.
Forget the (R+M)/2 ratings... which is the "93" in 93 octane pump gas. It's meaningless - well almost - when talking about true knock resistance.
Sunoco 104(R+M)/2 is only a 99 motor rating.
The 110 (R+M)/2 is a 105 motor rating... the 112 (R+M)/2 which the Sup drinks is a 110 motor octane.
Anyway... either run out most of your pump gas and then use some 104... or if you have quite a bit of fuel in your tank add some of the more potent (and expensive) higher octane. It's probably overkill... but better safe than sorry.
Also keep in mind that the stock ecu will start to pull timing if it hears knock. The good fuel will let it run more timing and give you more power... at least thats how the Supras ECU works. I'm sure the EVO is very similar.
Have fun and be gentle with that clutch!
Gimme a call when youre ready for big injectors, twin pumps and a staedy diet of 112 octane fuel.
Kevin,
If you bump up the boost I'ld throw some race fuel in just for a little extra safety. If I were you I'd spring for some 110 over 103. By the time you mix 103 with 93 the gains aren't nearly as significant as they are with 110.
Forget the (R+M)/2 ratings... which is the "93" in 93 octane pump gas. It's meaningless - well almost - when talking about true knock resistance.
Sunoco 104(R+M)/2 is only a 99 motor rating.
The 110 (R+M)/2 is a 105 motor rating... the 112 (R+M)/2 which the Sup drinks is a 110 motor octane.
Anyway... either run out most of your pump gas and then use some 104... or if you have quite a bit of fuel in your tank add some of the more potent (and expensive) higher octane. It's probably overkill... but better safe than sorry.
Also keep in mind that the stock ecu will start to pull timing if it hears knock. The good fuel will let it run more timing and give you more power... at least thats how the Supras ECU works. I'm sure the EVO is very similar.
Have fun and be gentle with that clutch!
Gimme a call when youre ready for big injectors, twin pumps and a staedy diet of 112 octane fuel.
Wow...thanks Jim! Looks like I need to come over and hang out with a little to be educated in the turbo arena!
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Originally posted by Pete_S4
Thanks for your reply! As I hoped to indicate above, I'm pretty aware of what can be done to cool down an intake charge and the difference between a small turbo and a large turbo producing the same PSI.
I should probably explain that I tend to go more for true streetable / long term reliable setups. The kind of cars even my mother could get in and just drive or that I can push for 20-30 minute at a track session all weekend. So to me things like water injection and NO2 are more for the drap strip than anything else. I also have to think that a turbo big enough to supply close to 30 PSI/2 BAR with decent air volume is going to have quite a bit of lag. There is such a car from the S4 world:
http://www.ktrperformance.com/galler...S4/s4_main.htm
According to some people who saw it at a recent car show, the builders are expecting 1000-1200 HP out of it. Nice, but I also have to say so what. It took tons of money to build, I can't drive it to work, and it probably wouldn't last a track session with out needing attention. Would I be incorrect in assuming that a 4g63 producing something like 700 HP is in the same boat?
Thanks for your reply! As I hoped to indicate above, I'm pretty aware of what can be done to cool down an intake charge and the difference between a small turbo and a large turbo producing the same PSI.
I should probably explain that I tend to go more for true streetable / long term reliable setups. The kind of cars even my mother could get in and just drive or that I can push for 20-30 minute at a track session all weekend. So to me things like water injection and NO2 are more for the drap strip than anything else. I also have to think that a turbo big enough to supply close to 30 PSI/2 BAR with decent air volume is going to have quite a bit of lag. There is such a car from the S4 world:
http://www.ktrperformance.com/galler...S4/s4_main.htm
According to some people who saw it at a recent car show, the builders are expecting 1000-1200 HP out of it. Nice, but I also have to say so what. It took tons of money to build, I can't drive it to work, and it probably wouldn't last a track session with out needing attention. Would I be incorrect in assuming that a 4g63 producing something like 700 HP is in the same boat?
Dave drives it to work every day!
jkOf course it needs attention. I must say alot of serious DSMers (Sheperd, Buschur,Rau,FPs car)
They tend to build yearlong motors, unlike most 10 and under cars you see. They seem to be very consistent. Thus why John Sheperd tends to wins IDRHA streetclass. He's always at the line.
Anyone would be a fool to say that a 400-600HP car is a reliable cheap daily driver that needs little maintenence. Unless of course the car has been engineered to perform like that but then its not modified.
I dont find any noveltey to driving anything faster then 12s on the street as your only car. You mind as well buy a buss pass. Its bound to break if you beat on it. Ive had my share of fun with cars. Im now happy with 13s and reliability (for the most part).
Prevent stuff from breaking, take care of your car.
Im not to sure what point you where getting at above but I was just explaining methods of getting high amounts of HP. I would never claim to daily drive such a car. I was trying to explain that its not just 30psi that makes something 600hp. There are so many different things to "test & tune" to yield worthy results.
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