You're right, I just noticed that it is >390 not <390...my bad. Interestingly, the oil that was in the car for ~2800 miles a lower flashpoint than the oil that had ~4000 miles on it.

 

looks like you had a bit of fuel dilution on the oil that was in for -2800 miles, would that lower the flashpoint?

 

I'm running Amsoil for a bit now , was gonna try Eneos on next oil change.

 

FYI Another EVO ENEOS test found on youtube. This is EVOX tho but eneos related.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_hgc54pxKc

 

What would be the side effects of using normal mobil 1 10w30 for the past 50k miles compared to whatever better oils you guys are mentioning? =p...

 

OK..... They don't even use oils that are Apple to Apple.. You can't compare a 20W-50 to a 0W-50 ...

I also love "A Leading Japanese Synthetic" compared to ENEOS... which IS The Leading Japanese Synthetic and may be the only Japanese Synthetic... The other oil was most likely a Hydro-Cracked oil... Again... Not an Apple to Apple comparison, so now, we have 2 things against an ENEOS Sponsored Film Clip..


Doc

 

If you are using Mobil 1 EP, you are using a good oil... AMSOIL is probably the only oil to outperform it..


Doc

 

Havent been using EP. Just the normal 10w30 synthetic. Always thought the EP was a gimmick but apparently not. Why is normal 10w30 not good oil?

 

I'm using Motul 6100 - 15W50

For my first two changes, as my engine only has 2000 km.
for now on I will use Motul 300V, I never leave an oil for more than 1000 KM.

 

EP (Extended Performance) is a PAO Based oil where the others are Hydro-Cracked Group III Products at best.

Many don'r realize that "Mobil 1" is a company, not a product...

Just like AMSOIL where they have the most complete line of Synthetics in the World including the Best Filtration on the Planet.

Check your engine for sludge buildup. Good place to check is bottom of oil cap and inside with a flashlight...

No buildup, you are ready to change...


Doc

 

Oil Doc,

I just changed to some German Castrol 0w-30 Syntec because it's got nothing but good reviews from oil analysis reports and people that has been using it over the years. These were on sale for $20 for 5 Quarts and I stocked up on it. I've been wanting to try some Amsoil 0w-30 for some time, but seems like I have to get in on the Amsoil membership to get a better price for them.

What is your take on the German Castrol 0w-30 oil?

Thanks!

 

Probably a waste with that oil by changing so soon. You should be able to do 3000 miles minimum. Instead of just dumping the oil, pull an oil analysis. But make sure you use an ISO 17025 A2LA Accredited Lab. They utilize the strictest standards and the results are duplicatable.

Although Motul is a good oil, a full Ester Based oil can have it's own share of problems with seal compatability.

Doc

 

Thanks, guess for the longest time i thought the only distinctions were between weight and as long as you were using synthetic it was fine. Is it possible for oil to increase HP as that biased youtube video shows?

 

Yes, it is more than possible, it is fact and AMSOIL has proven it for 35 years.

Where my problem lies with the youtube video is that they conveniently cover the label of the competitor. They are also testing different viscosity oils. Sounds just like they took their marketing practices from the Royal Purple Pages... "Against Leading Synthetics" what a crock...

AMSOIL Names their competition right on the bottles, cases and in print. If what they said was false, there would be lawsuit after lawsuit filed.

Also.... Fine, it increases HP.. what about wear ? Shear Stability ? Let's see ASTM Tests... That is what I would like.

Doc

 

The jury is out on the GC... Some say it is PAO Based, other sources say Hydro-Cracked... Same as the ENEOS oil... Would like to see ASTM Testing even if just wear and shear stability.

You don't have to buy a membership to get the best prices from AMSOIL, you just need the right contact that will sell Forum Members at Dealer Cost.

Doc