It will be JAM's turn to address their customer's concerns with their head, just as Buschur and Headgames (AMS) have done with issues concerning theirs.

Again, the bottom line is never expect that anything like this automatically comes free of issues, regardlesss of where one buys it. Remember, what you're getting is oftentimes someone else's core, and don't assume said core hasn't been abused or damaged by a previous owner (as was mine). Always have it inspected by an experienced eye, and following that, a good pre-installation cleaning with compressed air wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

To be 100% honest with you Dave I thought you lost your glow of 10years ago but after reading this, and if it is indeed true, I give you two thumbs up and you have renewed my faith in you.

 

Can you explain this a little bit more? what hose and nipple are you talking about? The actual drain plug at the bottom left (if you are looking at the motor)? Did you leave it open or something?

 

No no no, it's the hose that connect right to the radiator at the bottom of the car. It has a little plastic stopper so the rubber hose doesn't keep moving upwards. I know I'm not using the right terms, but I'll get my car back soon and take pictures of it. The leak was small, tiny drips, but under boost, it let everything out....

 

Yea I am not following.



All I know about is the upper and lower radiator hoses and the overflow hose. ???

Or are you actually talk about the lower radiator hose? It had a hole or something? Why would pressure be any different there under boost unless the cooling system was being pressurized more?

 

I am going to have to show you what I'm talking about when I get my car, I will take a picture. Basically the hose was just put on too far in and the stopper got in its way and a little gap was created during boost. I highlighted the area in which the leak was.

 

Ok so lower ic hose. But boost shouldn't create more pressure in the that unless the water jackets where getting pressurized.

Perhaps it was just leaking overall and enough leaked out to cause a higher temp.

 

I'm no mechanic, but I know I lost a ton of coolant on the dyno when I was pushing the car hard rather then highway driving, so that's why I said boost did it... You reasoning sounds logical to me..

 

well, there is a plastic "line" that runs real close to the rad, its basically on top of the radius of the lower rad hose inlet, and i could see if someone jammed the hose on a little too far, and clamped it, it would leak... and seeing as its at the bottom of the rad, that would make sense, just from gravity.....

anyway, back on topic!

cb

 

If you were pressurizing the coolant system while on boost chances are your head gasket seal was compromised. This generaly happens from excessive knock, weak head bolts, improperly torqued head studs, or a rough finish on the deck of the head (the area which meets the head gasket). All of the vendors previously listed in this thread make good heads and have put down solid numbers.

Another head porter to consider is Head Dynamics. Mike Reichen's EVO 2 put down 903 awhp, as well as set a new offical top speed record for all EVO's with 215.9 mph in a standing mile. All of this was done on a 70mm 42R (the smallest 42r). They are available either thru Devo Tuning or directly thru Head Dynamics.

 

^^^
That explains it a lot better, thanks CB

 

The only way that the leak would get greater with boost is if the water system was being pressurized by the boost, which would most likely mean a compromised head gasket.

The other possibility could be that on and off full boost on the dyno was rocking the motor around and making the lower radiator hose leak more. That might be what was happening as you said the head gasket seems fine.

 

Yeah, the head was removed and everything was fine, I went ahead and put a brand new hg to make sure everything was 100 % and it was, so I'm not worry about it no more....

 

I don't get onto the forums until later in the evenings. We're a small 3 person shop, the two owners and I, and policing these SILLY threads isn't a priority. Sometimes I'll get on in the morning before heading to the shop but it's rare.

Secondly, I already addressed the questions that were brought up. The head in the link was not assembled by us. It may be a JAM head, but it didn't go out of the shop with those springs on it. EVERY head that gets dual springs is machined for clearance and that is the bottom line. Not to mention the damage would be 100x worse if that head was run on a car with that sort of interference problem. We can go back and forth with Dave on this issue for days, but a pissing match isn't my prerogative. We have nothing to hide and if there was a problem we would address it appropriately. Othewise, it's not worth my time.

We've had some BR heads in here but you don't see me posting his "**** poor" work.

If there was a problem with his head then Chad should have brought up the issues with us and not run to Buschur and have him to the dirty work. REAL professional. He had the opportunity when he came to pick up his engine when we decided to part ways but instead he said nothing. Being a business man you would think he'd have the courage to address and solve these types of problems face to face. He never had ANY problems with our work when we were doing it for him. There were nothing but good things said about us by Chad up until the point where we couldn't reach an agreement with his "time attack" project. He wanted a free motor, we wouldn't give it to him, then all of a sudden we are the worst shop in the country.

We build the best 4g63 heads, PERIOD. The performance speaks for itself. Particular shops can't compete on a technical level so they resort to childish and slanderous behavior to swing the attention their way.

 

Woah.. definitely some valid points there.

Just a slight technical point but JAM can you address Dave's concerns on the lack of work on the combustion chamber?