It would be helpful to see if there is a pattern in Build Dates on Evos with clutch problems.

 

maybe you wouldnt kno bcuz u dont drive an evo??

 

The only thing I really don't get here is the guys that are suprised by the clutch issues. It seemed to be pretty common knowledge that the Evo 7 clutch was pretty weak. There was even a write up on this by a fellow member long before the Evo 8 hit the US showrooms.
When I purchased the car, I took this into consideration, and still decided to buy it knowing that eventually I would need a new clutch, and even knowing that could be in the first couple thousand miles.
I understand the frustration of people, but doing a little research beforehand, people would have found out this issue BEFORE buying the car.
My concern is that if everyone starts complaining, and their are lawsuits, large warranty claims, or recalls, then the days of the Evo in the US are going to be short lived.
The bottom line is the clutch is weak. Perhaps it shouldn't be, but it is and has been in previous models as well, and has been a well documented fact, before anyone in they US bought them. There is so much good about this car, just get the issue resolved with an aftermarket unit, and move on down the road.


PS here is a link to the thread I was talking about which was in Dec 2002, just in case anyone says that the info wasnt there in advance.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=11785
The best quote is the last post of the thread.

 

1.MYEVOVIII
2.Rick Case Mitsubishi, GA
3.Rick Case Mitsubichi. GA
4.5k
5.Tech line told Master tech to tell me nothing is wrong it is suppossed to sound like a coffe grinder on decel. They did nothing......

 

I did research it very well. (over 2 yearsbefore purchasing one) I knew it had a weak clutch, but not 2-3k weak. If you pay 30,000 for a car its clutch should last longer bottom line. There are alot of good things about a ram air TA, but pontiac took enough time to make sure their clutch's lasted longer than a oil change. I know all wheel drive is different but the fact remains mitsu could have easily put in a better clutch.

sucking mitsu's ***** saying it has alot of good stuff about the evo so a couple piece of junk parts won't hurt is crap. 30,000 is alot to me, I should not automatically have to upgrade the clutch just to drive it with its stock parts. I love my car, but the clutch thing is bogus

 

The big descepency here is that Mitsu went with a lot of name brand parts on the car, Bremob, Recaro, Momo, etc. The FQ-300 setup even uses a lot of HKS or Greddy parts. They can up the price $500 and just stick in a name brand HKS, Greddy, Apex'i, or whatever clutch and call it a day.

This is a very easily solved *big* issue for Mitsu, I hope they make a good decision with fixing this weak link ASAP.

 

Well, so far there have been three guys on the board with sub 10,000 mile failures that seem to be getting similar treatment (sano, redcloud, and skbydoo):
clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing.. covered under warranty within the last month (except the disk I think).

In one case (redcloud) he had the decel noise to begin with but eventaully it became an all the time noise.. in his case he was told the flywheel, pressure plate, and TOB were all defective from the factory... he verified that the tob was trashed when the dealer let him look at the parts.

I would ask that any of you that get a similare warranty repair to please get your techline case numbers from the dealer.

It seems mitsu is taking a closer look at the assembly similar to what they did with the trannies (mine included), I just hope they come up with something soon, and maybee they have already but are keeping it quite so we don't scream for a recall cause that would realy hurt them financially.

Ohh, and IMO, the real source of the weak clutches is all down to packaging, the bell housing is not large enough to put in a larger diameter disk and flywheel (as far as I know anyway) which would solve the problem in two ways by holding more torque and cutting down the tendency to overheat so easily.

 

I double clutch when I downshift cuz I dont want to get any of that engine braking jerks. It's a lot smoother if you rev match before you downshift... if you haven't noticed.

 

kazoo
Colins mitsu ,Indianapolis,Indiana
Harold Ziegler, Kalamazoo,Michigan
Under warranaty

 

FYI: Double clutching and rev match downshift is not the same thing. Double clutching properly is a lot harder to do.

 

its hard to tell people you just bought a car for $30,000 and 4-5 months later are having clutch problems

-Shahul

 

It looks like you're putting some power through that stock clutch...about how much WHP/WTQ do you think you're at?

 

I am at stock so what the hell!!!

 

The thing the most of you dont get is that this car is extremly fats and powerfull and if you are going to tested for hard launshing with out you knowing what to do you could f**d it up from the first time. I hink my clutch will last for ever because when i drive I drive slow except when I am going to race. other than that i am slow and nice with the car, there is no reason to frikeen go fast all the time and have fun with it like toy. It wont last. NOTHING WILL LAST with that way of driving. I wont even launch it over 2000 RPM and i cant pretty much luanch like a rocket. What the hell are you excpecting from a clutch gripping on to a pressure plate @ 5000 RPM. It will brake. on the other hand, If you shifted hard on high speeds like over 60 you should be ok no problems. Here is a tip will you guys push the clutch all the way down befor shiffting gear on normal driving

 

I've never launched the car before and its already starting to slip.