85mm drop in's, what checks to do??
85mm drop in's, what checks to do??
Right goin to drop in sum 85mm pistons and rods, engine is low miles
Shopping list is
85mm Pistons & Rings
Rods
Rod Bearings
Head Gasket
Head Studs
THink thats all i'll need, any checks i should carry out?? and anything I should watch out for?? Is there a guide on here, as some of the guides on here are great!!
Shopping list is
85mm Pistons & Rings
Rods
Rod Bearings
Head Gasket
Head Studs
THink thats all i'll need, any checks i should carry out?? and anything I should watch out for?? Is there a guide on here, as some of the guides on here are great!!
i just rebuilt my motor swaping in all forged internals.
u will need/i would do
1. coolant
2. head gasket
3. gasket maker for oil pan (great stuff i would recomend)
4. valve cover gasket
5. new spark plug o rings
6. 1.5 gallons of distilled water
7. depending on miles, do all belts
8. lots of break cleaner
9. regular oil (about 2.5 gallons of it because i would sugest changing it after about 20 miles)
10. 2 or more oil filters
11. ball hone
check injector seals
bring head to machine shop and make sure its flat
check all valves
valve springs
im sure there is more so people can add to this list as the thread progresses on.
u will need/i would do
1. coolant
2. head gasket
3. gasket maker for oil pan (great stuff i would recomend)
4. valve cover gasket
5. new spark plug o rings
6. 1.5 gallons of distilled water
7. depending on miles, do all belts
8. lots of break cleaner
9. regular oil (about 2.5 gallons of it because i would sugest changing it after about 20 miles)
10. 2 or more oil filters
11. ball hone
check injector seals
bring head to machine shop and make sure its flat
check all valves
valve springs
im sure there is more so people can add to this list as the thread progresses on.

i just rebuilt my motor swaping in all forged internals.
u will need/i would do
1. coolant
2. head gasket
3. gasket maker for oil pan (great stuff i would recomend)
4. valve cover gasket
5. new spark plug o rings
6. 1.5 gallons of distilled water
7. depending on miles, do all belts
8. lots of break cleaner
9. regular oil (about 2.5 gallons of it because i would sugest changing it after about 20 miles)
10. 2 or more oil filters
11. ball hone
check injector seals
bring head to machine shop and make sure its flat
check all valves
valve springs
im sure there is more so people can add to this list as the thread progresses on.
u will need/i would do
1. coolant
2. head gasket
3. gasket maker for oil pan (great stuff i would recomend)
4. valve cover gasket
5. new spark plug o rings
6. 1.5 gallons of distilled water
7. depending on miles, do all belts
8. lots of break cleaner
9. regular oil (about 2.5 gallons of it because i would sugest changing it after about 20 miles)
10. 2 or more oil filters
11. ball hone
check injector seals
bring head to machine shop and make sure its flat
check all valves
valve springs
im sure there is more so people can add to this list as the thread progresses on.
check the basics, measure the pistons per the makers specs, figure out your ptw clearance.
verify your small & big end clearances..big-end side clearance, verify your piston ring end gaps, be certain to knock off any edges on the tips after grinding to clearance....put plenty of oil in the ring grooves......use a decent lube on the rod bearings prior to assembly.....be certain that the tips of the piston pin c-clips dont have any sharp edges, as they may want to pop out if not seated correctly....i forget if the evo rod is centered or if htere is a offset......be sure that is oriented in the correct fashion or you'll side-load the assembly if not...
verify your small & big end clearances..big-end side clearance, verify your piston ring end gaps, be certain to knock off any edges on the tips after grinding to clearance....put plenty of oil in the ring grooves......use a decent lube on the rod bearings prior to assembly.....be certain that the tips of the piston pin c-clips dont have any sharp edges, as they may want to pop out if not seated correctly....i forget if the evo rod is centered or if htere is a offset......be sure that is oriented in the correct fashion or you'll side-load the assembly if not...
here is the thread with the details to my build. sorry for the way the pics were posted, i didnt feel like re-hosting them all so i didnt. and dont mind all the haters either. haha
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=324623
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=324623
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What about the balance shaft? does changing the weight of the rods and pistons demand removal of it?
Also, when doing a "drop-in" like this, are you going to change the rod bearings so that you put a brand new bearing against a worn-in crank (Bad, as far as I know) or match up the bearings on the exact spot they were on the stock rods to keep the mating surface on the bearing face the same (between the rod and crank)
Also, when doing a "drop-in" like this, are you going to change the rod bearings so that you put a brand new bearing against a worn-in crank (Bad, as far as I know) or match up the bearings on the exact spot they were on the stock rods to keep the mating surface on the bearing face the same (between the rod and crank)
What about the balance shaft? does changing the weight of the rods and pistons demand removal of it?
Also, when doing a "drop-in" like this, are you going to change the rod bearings so that you put a brand new bearing against a worn-in crank (Bad, as far as I know) or match up the bearings on the exact spot they were on the stock rods to keep the mating surface on the bearing face the same (between the rod and crank)
Also, when doing a "drop-in" like this, are you going to change the rod bearings so that you put a brand new bearing against a worn-in crank (Bad, as far as I know) or match up the bearings on the exact spot they were on the stock rods to keep the mating surface on the bearing face the same (between the rod and crank)


