Hey man, somethings definitely not right. I make 313WHP / 307WTQ @ 23PSI with 92 Octane on DB's Dyno. I know the DD is a low reading dyno, but I would think you would be in the 400's.

I say through in some 110 or C16 and see if you're still seeing knock counts where you typically wouldn't see them with higher octane fuel...then you can start playing with the knock sensor threshold a little bit...

Good luck!

 

Keep us updated on how the tuning goes! Obviously these are the first stages and there will be some hiccups. HURRY GET OVER THESE HUMPS AND GIVE US SOME BETTER NUMBERS!! subscribing! but only because i know you have it in you!

 

^Thanks.

Chukee_R,
I had the same issues when I was on my FPGreen also but I had eliminated the knock completely somehow. This was just about a month ago before I got this new turbo. Anyway, the knock came back when I switched to E85 (still on the Green at this time) from pump gas. I went around town and tried 100+ octane race fuel. The Plymouth station had 100 Tonoco race fuel and I tried that. It did not eliminate the knock. The only reason I took it in for a tune now was because I thought I had elminated the phantom knock again and I thought so because I did not get knocks on my logs I made the night before my tune.

So I guess I will have to try some race fuel on this turbo also...

 

post up some logs

 

What a disapointment i made that power with stock turbo (03 9.8) and #4 piston on really low compression

 

First off, don't listen to all the people saying you should be pissed or there must be a problem etc etc.

I've been tuning on our dynodynamics for several years now and can say without a doubt the car is happy based simply on the shape of the curve. They are probably not correcting the dyno to get closer to dynojet numbers, we don't correct either. This is not to say there is not a lot more power left on the table.

False knock can be a real issue whith certain bottom end combinations. We had a customer who we built a 2.3 37r for tuned on stock ecu pump was 400+ knock sensor was happy etc. Customer ran the car out of oil and we had to rebuild, this time with a 2.4 same turbo and we could not even start a run without the knock count going +20 instantly. In the end we had to disable the knock sensor and install a knock link. on the spring for breakin miles he was at 350 on our dynodynamics.

At the end of the day, the stock ecu is fine with most combinations, but there are combinations that will give the stock knock control routines a fit and will give flase knock all over the place.

Nice thing about a stand alone is you can configure the knock threshold and how to respond when you cross that threshold.

I think your best bet would be a stand alone or if you are brave, disable the knock sensor in the rom and install a knock link or turboxs knock light. Down side of the latter option is YOU will have to protect the motor rather than the ecu.

Also, you can convert to speed density or blow thorugh maf on the stock ecu with maftpro or maft. This won't help the false knock situation though.

 

Hey, man, i made 450hp on my stock turbo, your numbers suck!!



J/k


Seriously though, you may think about AEM EMS at this point (if it is in fact false knock you're getting.) Probably easier to buy that than try to figure out what the stock sensors are picking up...

 

So were you able to determine if it was false knock or not?

Pretty basic question... ECU says there is knock, but you listen to the motor with det cans and don't hear anything. This means it is false knock correct?

Or ECU says there is knock, you pull timing, add race fuel, and it STILL says there is knock. Plugs look fine. This means it is false knock correct?

One thing though people should understand... to call DynoJet #'s ATW is a joke. They are nowhere near "ATW". DD's when setup properly will read significantly lower than a Mustang Dyno.

I'd much rather have 350 hp ATW on a DD than 420 on a Dynojet.

 

Yes, it was / is false knock. We did all the usual checks, plugs, piston tops, add timing, pull timing, add fuel, pull fuel, race gas, det cans, etc.

We tuned it with the detcans after "turning off" the knock sensor. To date, no one really knows much about the knock sensor filter tables and rather than experimenting with the filter tables on a customers car and the customer not wanting to go to a standalone (our first recommendation) we opted to go with a knock link and the detcans.

 

Well, one thing I will try is at least look under the hood where the knock sensor is and see if it is loose. I'm also going to try and se if anything is rattling against something else and if not, I'm going to replace the knock sensor. (could have been slightly damaged during install?) If that doesn't help, it will be time for an AEM EMS!

 

Thanks for your reply!

I think the confusion in this thread was from the OP wondering if it was or was not false knock. But if this was clear than I understand completely.

But then I just re-read the first post and he does clearly say it was false knock so I guess I got confused. My apologies.

 

I think you are confused as I clearly stated that the car was in fact picking up false knock.

Edit: I see that you see my original post.

 

Doubt it helps but my friends Evo 6 came from Japan running very poorly. We did some datalogging and found knock counts all over the place, like reving in nuetral and stuff. 9 counts and such. Turns out the wire to the knock sensor was chewed through by a rat or something when the car sat at port for like a month. We found a couple chicken bones on the gearbox so assumed rat!

Anyway, once we patched up the wire, the car was fine. Anyway I doubt yours is a wiring issue as I think you'd be picking up knock all over the place like we did.

 

If you actually disconnect the knock sensor connector, the ecu will go into a failsafe under WOT and always register up to 9 counts of knock and will pull timing explaining your friend's chewed through wires and poor running condition.

 

how come your tq and HP curves dont touch????

lol