I would suggest to anyone serious about driving their Evo, get this line.

Got mine today from Alamo. Had a friend help me install it. Removed the restrictor valve too.

What a difference. Much more positive engagement; its very apparent. The pedal feels very good, not as squishy as it was with the old line. Shifting is extremely crisp. I can feel the clutch grab right away. I have a feeling this will result in many less missed ****s. The only thing I might be worried about now is the center diff., but my understanding is that they can take a lot of abuse.

So as if you haven't heard enough from others on the forum, get the damn line! You won't regret the $70 upgrade one bit.

 

we're in the process of bleeding the clutch now after the ss clutch line was installed. followed the directions on this site.

now for the bleeding: there's no brake fluid going through. we opened the bleeder and worked the slave cylinder piston back and forth, with a hose connected to the slave and the other end emersed in brake fluid. nothings happening!! and we've been at the bleeding part for an hour. PLEASE HELP!! i need to finish up so i can see my gf tonight....the brake reservoir has not budged; still at the max line.

 

try opening the bleeder some more.

 

thanks for the feedback. tried opening the bleeder more but still same results. any other ideas? even bought a vacuum pump, and it still isn't working... the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir does not move... should the brake fluid cap be open or closed? tried both already... just want to make sure.

 

found out that the brake reservoir needs to be filled almost to the top. our fluid level was at max, but we needed to fill the fluid level close to the top in order to create a vacuum. so, if anyone has problems bleeding (air escaping), be sure to fill the brake reservoir to the top.

after filling the brake reservoir to the top, the bleeding was quick and simple. thanks to timzcat for the great instructions.

 

I just read on a regional Evo forum that you should re-use the factory banjo bolt on the SS clutch cable rather than using the included bolt. It said that the aftermarket bolt can been too long and cause leaks. I don't know what brand of line they were talking about. I'm planning to install a Lancershop line this weekend. Should I reuse the factory bolt or use the Lancershop bolt? Anyone else heard of this problem with certain kits?

Thanks,
Rich

 

I bought one from Alamo and used their banjo bolt with no leaks.

 

One other question about changing the line and removing the restrictor -- Would it make sense to open the bleeder on the slave and pump almost all of the fluid out of the system neatly through a tube into a little container so that when you remove the old rubber clutch line and the banjo on the slave to remove the restrictor you don't have paint-eating brake fluid flowing out in big quantities? Seems like that would make sense to me to make the whole job neater.

Can anyone think of a reason not to do it that way?

Thanks,
Rich

 

There isn't as much fluid leakage as you might think. I may have had a few ounces of fluid leak out before the section of hose that was being replaced was completely empty, including what was up in the reservoir for the master cylinder.

Once the reservoir in the master cylinder is empty on the clutch line side, you can pull the hose off without worry. (watch for drips, though!)

I was also expecting these parts to be under high pressure - but they were not. The first piece I broke loose was the lower end of the clutch line, and the fluid just trickled out. I had a cup nearby and had several shop rags down there to catch any potential leakage. Shop rags are cheap - paint jobs are not!

The only time you should see pressure is if the car is on, and God help you if you do this with the engine started

 

RichJ,
I would not recommend that, it willl only make it more difficult to bleed the system after you are done.

BeenWaitin4Evo,
The should never be any pressure in the system unless the pedal is depressed.

 

I'm almost done with both mods (restrictor and clutch line), but I'm stuck on the bleeding part!

What exactly do you do if you have two people? When the clutch is depressed with the bleeder open, the fluid comes out but then the clutch doesn't come up off the floor unless it is lifted off the floor. Is this normal? I thought this would be like bleeding brakes, but it clearly is different.

Could someone please explain the bleeding process in detail for me?

I put in a Lancershop line and wasn't terribly impressed with the differences from the stock stuff. No way to clip the line in the middle and the banjo bolt for the master was clearly different than the stocker. When the supplied banjo bolt was used with the supplied clutch line, the amount of bolt length that has to go into the fitting off the master was .03 inches longer than the stock bolt and the type of flare was different (flat end vs. beveled end). Anyhow, I ended up using the stock banjo bolt, which didn't make me happy either because the threaded part of the banjo bolt that went in with the stock bolt and the lancershop line was .02 inches shorter than stock. I figured there was less chance of leaking with a bolt that was a little too short than one that was a little too long with the wrong taper. I should of taken pictures to show what I mean, but I just wanted to get it back together.

So, I really need help on the bleeding process. Any advice would be much appreciated!!

Thanks,
Rich

 

Make sure you keep the master cylinder filled to the brim and it is normal for the pedal to not come back up since you just bled the pressure out of the line and there is no way for the pedal to be pushed back up.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I took the car for a spin and all seems well with the SS line and !restrictor. The total job took longer than I expected and retrieving the restrictor from the slave was harder than I expected. It didn't exactly fall out and it took me a while to pick it out from underneath the car (as brake fluid went drip drip drip on my light and tools).

One thing about those thinking about taking your car to a pro to have this done. It's tricky to get to that banjo bolt off the master without scratching up the painted shock tower. I'm picky about that sort of stuff and put duct tape all over the area to protect the paint from scratches while doing the work. A pro wouldn't do that and most likely would leave some small scratches under the hood from this job. Glad I did it myself to save myself that unnecessary wear and tear. Probably not a good job for a complete mod newbie without wrenching experience unless you've got a buddy to help.

Thanks for all the good writeups and advice.

RichJ

 

I am glad to hear you got it on. This mod is definitely difficult since the banjo bolt is in search a hard to get to place. I tried for a half an hour then my buddy steps in and gets it in like 5 mins!!!

 

the banjo bolt is a mother ****er...

that's all i'm gonna say...