I don't like 2.3 I'm going to destroke I'm not getting the mph also my rev is set at 8400 and still have to shift to 5th in the 1/4.

that's good advice and should carry you beyond 500+awhp. I'm running PTE 1000cc + BR twin pumps and seeing ~ 85% IDC at ~ 515awhp currently.

why not destroke a 2.4 4G64 to 2.2?

why ^^

I road race an AMS built 2.0 liter - 2 years, ~ 8 track days, 9100 RPM fuel cut, with an 8500 RPM shift point (50 trim) ... zero problems at the track with the block (IC hoses, dipstick, spark plugs, brakes .. different story). Tune is 22-23 psi 93 octane tune with 100 octane gas in the tank for all track sessions.

If I were in your shoes, I'd sit down and really look at the advantages and disadvantages of each setup. A 2.3 35R is a very different animal than a 2.0 35R setup. Some food for thought, right off the top of my head:

- 2.0L will have less torque across the board, so will not pull as hard coming out of lower RPM corners, but will make as much, if not more power up top

- 2.0L will spool later (200-500 RPM depending on cams, compression ratio, etc.) than the 2.3L, but, given your 7800RPM fuel cut on the 2.3, will give you an extra 1200 RPM ... this should translate into being able to keep it in 4th on medium length straights, it will also mean that if you want to squeeze the most out of the car, that you will have to shift into 2nd for some corners that you are used to taking in 3rd.

- Given my experience on my 50 trim setup, if you don't want to push past a 9000 RPM fuel cut (i.e. optimal shift point of ~8800 RPM), then maybe go with a moderate (almost auto-x type) cam. As I said, my optimal shift point is at ~8500 RPM on my 50 trim (HKS 280 cams @ +2/0, AMS VSR intake, AMS/headgames ported head, AMS IC, 65mm TB). I'd say that if I upped to a 35r, I could actually run less aggressive cams with an HTA 35R, which should get you maybe 100 RPM spoolup and some lowend grunt at the expense of some topend power.

In your case, since you do not have a ported head and are still on the stock intake, you'll probably be in good shape with the GSC S2 cam, though (i.e. your powerband won't want a 9000+ RPM shift).

If you don't mind answering, what kind of suspension/tire/aero setup are you running to pull enough G's to drop the oil pressure that much? I know it was something AMS had to address on their TA car ... just trying to figure out how close I'm going to be once I switch over to R888s.

l8r)

Personally, I'd go for a stroker and taller gearing for the road course. Spinning a motor to super high RPMs may not be a problem for a 2.0 in the bottom end and valvetrain, but it certainly creates more potential oiling issues (which you already have even at relatively low RPM) and also wears everything else more that turns in sync with the motor (accessories). A 2.0 might be great on the straights, but it's likely not as flexible. If you were in the East, I'd tell you to get a 2.0 though

I am wondering the same thing

I guess it sounded cool

Personally Kmac I would go with the 3076R in a 2.0 so its not too laggy. The 2.0 with the 35R I personally think is a bit too laggy for road racing, but you do have the HTA35R so its a better 35R, but with the 2.3 and Hta35R I dont think you can go wrong for power and sacrificing spool up time.

For your situation I would ether Rebuild the 2.3 and keep the Hta35r on there and do baffles and a acusump or Dry sump system also. Or do a fully Built 2.0 with the Buschur Built head and try out both the 3076r and the Hta35R to see how you like them and compare the 2 and see how laggy the one is. If its not to bad for you then run with the 35r. Do the baffle and acusump to. The 2.0 and higher rev you will for sure not want to loose Oil Press. I would rev it to 8500 for sure but log and see how it does going to 9000. Just test it out is all I can say.

I would do in my car, a built 2.0 with a 3076r for fast spool up in the 2.0L area and max out the turbo. If I could do a stroker on my car I would do a 2.2 or 2.3 with the 3076r for really fast spool up, but would be maxing out on boost quick so the HTA35R would be the best bet for the Stroker.

2.3rr hta 35r = Badazz

I'm not sure the 3076 is going to get into the power sooner than the HTA 35r and it's going to require race gas to do what the HTA 35R can do on pump gas.

I am running 275 BFG R1's with Enkie RPF1 a8x10.5 15mm offset, (Voltex wide body) Miller is a very smooth, high grip track. There are a few others having the same problem as I am. It never was an issue until the big turbo/ high horsepower cars starting showing up (including my own). I do not notice any turbo lag with the 2.3l with the HTA 35r, (I am rareley under 5k rpm's).

I should have also stated that I do have the AMS VSR intake manifold, fully ported & built AMShead, 3" intercooler piping, and a full race exhaust manifold. This is why I am hoping that I can use the ported BR Stage 3 head and 2.0L with the HTA 35r without having spool up issues. I have access to a lot of cam options, so I hope that the right cam selection will help.

That was 18x10.5 RPF1's. Also I should say that my horse power goals have changed. I made 569 whp with the 3076r on a DynoPak in Utah. The Turbo is Easily maxed out with the 2.3l, (only was at 24 lbs of boost). I ran the car like this for an entire year, and it was a hard year. I am now looking to reach 700whp, and is why I went with the HTA35r. The car was amazing until I started running into oil pressure issues. I think I have these problems solved now, so hopfully the extra power will not be an issue anymore.

i would stick with the 2.3L for the extra grunt. sounds to me like you have written off the 3076 as you want the power of the 35r.

the 2.0L with the 35r would be very unforgiving on the track, im not sure what kind of racing you are doing but if you were to ever fall out of the powerband on the 2L/35r it would take a while to get back in it.

If i were you i would keep your current setup of 2.3/35r and try to work out your oiling problem

This is my problem. I want to keep the 2.3l setup because I know it works. I was hoping that by going to the 2.0L and having the extra 1000 rpms, I would not have to shift as much. The car is a road race car. It sees the street maybe once a month. It seems like the thing to do is keep the 2.3l and rebuilt the trans with 4:11's.