I need some help here. I want to try a new set up now that I am rebuilding my stroker motor and also have access to a BR stage 3 2.0. I had been running the 2.3 with the gt3076 for a full year with no complaints. The car was very strong and very fast (this is a purpose built time attack- modified class car). I decided to try the new hta 35r and the power gains were amazing, with only 400 rpm spool up change (3900 rpm to 4300). Since changing to the 35r I have now spun a rod bearing twice in the last month. After looking over the logs, we found that we are loosing oil pressure on high 'G' right hand corners. I was hoping AMS would have their Dry Sump kit complete and ready for release, but I was told it will still be at least an other month. So, an acusump system will be put in place prior to completing the re-build.

Now, onto my options. Now with the hta 35r, I am having to shift into 5th gear in 4 places at Miller when I never use to shift at all, (redline is set at 7800 rpm's with the 2.3). I only shift for a small period of time, and loose about half a second ever time I go to 5th. I am sure at ButtomWillow I will be shifting into 5th now in at least two places. I want to be able to stay in 4th gear, without changing out gears in the tranny. I know I could put 4:11's in the tranny, but Shep is to far out and the car has to be put back together for CAL speedway next week. I can get a 2.0 BR longblock from Robi, and I also have a new crank, rods, pistons for the 2.3. I still have the 3076 and hta35, so what is the best options....

2.0 with 3076r
2.0 with hta35r
2.3 with hta35r
2.3 with 3076r (non an option, I will sacrifice 400 rpm's of spool time for the extra power)

I am hoping to be able to rev the the 2.0 to 9000 rpm's which would keep me from having to shift into 5th. The downside to the 2.0 is if the hta35r is going to be to laggy, so I should maybe go with the 3076r and sacrifice the power.

The best option would probably be staying with the 2.3l hta35r and changing to 4.11's, but this will have to wait till the winter when I have more down time.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS

 

I need to know if 9000 rpm's can be reached on a 2.0 in a road race application and still be reliable. I dont plan to go their all the time, just need to do so on occasion. This would be on a stage 3 Buschur block and head.

 

i would get the 2.0 and HTA35

 

I'm spinning my stock block 2.0 to 8500 quite often...with a built 2.0 from BR 9k wouldn't be a problem so I'd keep the HTA 35R

 

What about cam options? with running to 8500-9000, I should probably go with a 280? Right now I have the GSC 2's in the car, but I aslo have HKS 272 and 280's. I would like to have as quick of a spool up as possible and I know that a bigger cam can make the turbo spool slower. What would be the best option for the 2.0 with the HTA35r??

 

The GS S2 doesn't lose any low rpm grunt vs the stock cam so It wouldn't be a bad idea to stick with that. The HKS 272 and 280 also will not lose the low rpm grunt but they will not make as much power at high rpm vs the GSC S2

 

2.0 and hta35r is what i would do

 

Thanks for the info. I am also concerned about running out of fuel pump with the new set up. I have been running the 2.3 with the hta35r with just a single BR modified Walbro pump. I have not had problems with running out of fuel, but I am worried that I might run out of pump at sea level? I am also running 880 injector that are at 90% which might need to be changed to 1000cc. Any comments?

 

get the br double pumper and 1000cc injectors and you wont have to worry about running out of fuel

 

for RPMs yah the 2.0 + hta35R

But yah

Also im assuming you already have the upgraded valve springs and retainers right? The Buschur block should be built to handle the higher RPM's...so the logical next weaker link would be the valves

I myself have been thinking a 2.2 might be what im looking for...if not the 2.3RR from AMS has also crossed my mind.

 

the AMS 2.3rr is got to be the best option, but I cant handle to cost. The head is BR's stage 3. What are going to be the limitations for this head?? What else can be done to insure that I am not going to have a problem?

I am also trying to find someone that has modified the stock oil pan/pickup to help with droping oil pressure in high "g" right hand corning. Anybody know if this has been done?

 

Also you can go higher then 1000cc injectors on the stock ECU and still have a good idle.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...&highlight=FIC

the FIC 1150 or PTE 1200. has been confirmed to work on the stocker.

hope that helps with your decision's

 

Im running the EMS so injector size is not a problem. Thanks the help.

 

Baffle the oil pan...plenty of other cars have been doing it for years. just takes a bit of welding..google it there are plenty of ideas out there.

here is some pics to give you the idea.
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...-8&sa=N&tab=wi

the BR head i have heard can scream to above 9500...but since you want it to also last..then 9000 sounds about right.

 

Thanks. It should not be that difficult.