PCV Valve Relocation
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From: Harrisburg, PA
PCV Valve Relocation
I'm working on some DIY stuff in the PCV system, and I'm not so much worried about my DIY catch can withstanding the boost, but I'm more worried about boost leaks in the line connections.
Am I able to simply buy a barded fitting with (information from searching) 1/8 NPT and thread it into where the PCV valve used to be and relocate the PCV randomly in the line between the manifold and catch can?
Here is my current set-up. What I'm afriad of is boost leaking at the "Connection" which is a double sided barbed fitting, as well as the in and out connection of the catch can and nipple on the intake manifold. I don't feel like I can get the clamp very snug in order to prevent a boost leak.

Here is what I want to do. This way there are only two connections to boost leak at, instead of six. I'm just worried (I'm not sure why. I'm paranoid) of putting the PCV valve in the line. Sort of just floating in the line so to speak. It just seems wierd to me.

Am I making any sense? Is boost leaking in the PCV system really a big deal? I've driven the car with previous DIY catch can set-ups and I may have had small boost leaks, but I was never able to tell by driving the car. Boost always held great. I have yet to drive the car with this new set-up I came up with.
I hooked up compressed air (roughly 35-40psi) to the catch can into the line to the intake manifold. I kept hearing an air leak until I relized I was actually leaking at my intake air filter
I sprayed the connections in catch can set up with windex and didn't get any bubbling. So I don't THINK there are any leaks, I'm just lame.
Any feedback on the PCV relocation is appriciated!
Am I able to simply buy a barded fitting with (information from searching) 1/8 NPT and thread it into where the PCV valve used to be and relocate the PCV randomly in the line between the manifold and catch can?
Here is my current set-up. What I'm afriad of is boost leaking at the "Connection" which is a double sided barbed fitting, as well as the in and out connection of the catch can and nipple on the intake manifold. I don't feel like I can get the clamp very snug in order to prevent a boost leak.

Here is what I want to do. This way there are only two connections to boost leak at, instead of six. I'm just worried (I'm not sure why. I'm paranoid) of putting the PCV valve in the line. Sort of just floating in the line so to speak. It just seems wierd to me.

Am I making any sense? Is boost leaking in the PCV system really a big deal? I've driven the car with previous DIY catch can set-ups and I may have had small boost leaks, but I was never able to tell by driving the car. Boost always held great. I have yet to drive the car with this new set-up I came up with.
I hooked up compressed air (roughly 35-40psi) to the catch can into the line to the intake manifold. I kept hearing an air leak until I relized I was actually leaking at my intake air filter
I sprayed the connections in catch can set up with windex and didn't get any bubbling. So I don't THINK there are any leaks, I'm just lame. Any feedback on the PCV relocation is appriciated!
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Not at the moment. It's 12am, and I need to go to bed soon. My mega awesome drawings are pretty straight foward though. I'll take a picture tomorrow afternoon.
My main question is, is it ok to just leave the PCV valve float in the line like that, between the can and manifold? I don't see why it would affect anything, it just seems like odd placment for a PCV valve. But as I said, in the current set-up, there are six area's (connections) for a boost leak to occur. The nipple on the manifold, two possible leaks at the "Connection", "out" of the catch can, "in" of the catch can, and finally the PCV connection.
If I was to relocate the PCV valve, I could only boost leak at the intake manifold nipple and the connect to the PCV valve. I'd rather worry about two instead of six.
My main question is, is it ok to just leave the PCV valve float in the line like that, between the can and manifold? I don't see why it would affect anything, it just seems like odd placment for a PCV valve. But as I said, in the current set-up, there are six area's (connections) for a boost leak to occur. The nipple on the manifold, two possible leaks at the "Connection", "out" of the catch can, "in" of the catch can, and finally the PCV connection.
If I was to relocate the PCV valve, I could only boost leak at the intake manifold nipple and the connect to the PCV valve. I'd rather worry about two instead of six.
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I drove the car today, and did a few 3rd and 4th gear pulls at full boost. Held 23psi to redline. So no leaks. No MAJOR leaks, anyway.
I did however get some better quality worm clamps from work though. I'm going to replace the crutial ones with the better quality ones because after my pulls, I was able to just pull on the line and it slips right off the PCV valve. Better clamps are defiantly going to help
I did however get some better quality worm clamps from work though. I'm going to replace the crutial ones with the better quality ones because after my pulls, I was able to just pull on the line and it slips right off the PCV valve. Better clamps are defiantly going to help
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Unless instead the car would just shut off with the addition of the leak. I'm using an Air/oil/water seperator for an air compressor as the "catch can" and it seems to do ok. I'm using clear braided PVC line so I can see the brown hazing to see if the can is working. For the most part it is, but there is very slight oil film PAST the catch can. Now I'm wondering if the pressurized air has something to do with this. As if it's causing more oil vapors to be pulled through the can. Would relocating the PCV AFTER the can help with this issue?
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From: Still in NC!! Loving retired life!!
It does get the point across though.
Josh
What are you doing with the driver side pcv?
If you left it stock then its fine. If you put a breather you would need a tune for the added unmetered air. But if you capped it then that is a big NO.
If you left it stock then its fine. If you put a breather you would need a tune for the added unmetered air. But if you capped it then that is a big NO.
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