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FP EVORed 470whp on 26psi with 100oct UL fuel

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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:04 AM
  #151  
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drb
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by DBallz
Damn it I can't find a post
look here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=355168
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:29 AM
  #152  
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We made 530+ on Davids Dyno, then made 565whp and 528 wtq on Switzers Dynojet. We also held power to 525 whp at 8400. To backup what DB said, we also noticed the car getting lean and added the double pump, no more lean problem.

Last edited by 9sec9; Aug 11, 2008 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:34 AM
  #153  
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
yep on my car:
1000cc + single walbro = 107% IDC on the HTA 35R on 93 octane at 30psi
dual walbro = 85% IDC
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by 9sec9
We made 530+ on Davids Dyno, the made 565whp and 528 wtq on Switzers Dynojet. We also held power to 525 whp at 8400. To backup what DB said, we also noticed the car getting lean and added the double pump, no more lean problem.
Well I was just trying to see how would your average evo owners car how would it produce power. Your car as pulled all the stops. I'm trying to see if I can hit the 500 mark on DynoDynamics with stock block, head, intake mani, TB, exhaust mani, HKS 272's. I'm really not trying to change to much in my setup for the FP red. The only thing unique that I will be adding is a o2 dump that seems pretty promissing. I think with the o2 dump I won't need to do any porting on the turbo nor on the manifold. I should hold boost straight to redline with no taper and the exhaust flow will be smooth as ice at WOT
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:18 AM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by DBallz
The only thing unique that I will be adding is a o2 dump that seems pretty promissing. I think with the o2 dump I won't need to do any porting on the turbo nor on the manifold. I should hold boost straight to redline with no taper and the exhaust flow will be smooth as ice at WOT
I am thinking about doing the same thing.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by sEvoIXnTurboS2k
I am thinking about doing the same thing.
Well then you'll both be leaving a whole lot of power on the table. Ported turbo, intake mani, and exhaust mani cost $45, $95, and $195 respectively. Add $300 for a throttle body and you have no noticeable changes to appearance, reliability, or driveability and you've picked up at least 20-30whp. You can probably ask Buschur to skip the coating on the exhaust mani if you really need to save a few bucks.

I don't see how you can hit 500whp even on c16 without doing things like that, especially with HKS 272s. You might come close (480?), but 500 is probably out of reach on any kind of a safe tune with that setup.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:48 AM
  #157  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by jbrown
Well then you'll both be leaving a whole lot of power on the table. Ported turbo, intake mani, and exhaust mani cost $45, $95, and $195 respectively. Add $300 for a throttle body and you have no noticeable changes to appearance, reliability, or driveability and you've picked up at least 20-30whp. You can probably ask Buschur to skip the coating on the exhaust mani if you really need to save a few bucks.

I don't see how you can hit 500whp even on c16 without doing things like that, especially with HKS 272s. You might come close (480?), but 500 is probably out of reach on any kind of a safe tune with that setup.
Actually, I shouldn't have quoted all that he said. I should have simply quoted the external dump part. I already have a ported exhaust manifold and will have the hotside ported. I also intend on getting a Wilson V2 IM and Mil.Spec 65mm TB.

And...I have Cosworth 272s.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by sEvoIXnTurboS2k
I am thinking about doing the same thing.
You know which one I'm talking bout
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 10:00 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by jbrown
Well then you'll both be leaving a whole lot of power on the table. Ported turbo, intake mani, and exhaust mani cost $45, $95, and $195 respectively. Add $300 for a throttle body and you have no noticeable changes to appearance, reliability, or driveability and you've picked up at least 20-30whp. You can probably ask Buschur to skip the coating on the exhaust mani if you really need to save a few bucks.

I don't see how you can hit 500whp even on c16 without doing things like that, especially with HKS 272s. You might come close (480?), but 500 is probably out of reach on any kind of a safe tune with that setup.
Well I'm basing my results on Roberts results. I don't want to port anything. My budget is not as large as others so i would rather get the slug in the ride first and then take it from there. I want to stick with what I have on the car excluding the intake and my injectors which I will change. But all my other parts will stay on the car i want to see if I can hit 500 first before I start going crazy buying a whole bunch of parts. Besides I know there was someone here that now has a HTA 35R but he had a green before with the HKS 272's and he did hit 480 is on C16

Last edited by DBallz; Aug 11, 2008 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 06:03 PM
  #160  
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From: Spec Ops
here we go.
Evo IX
2.3l with Built head.
Turbo back, no cat.
Cossie cams
K&N drop in filter.
ported exhaust manifold
24psi

full boost about 3500rpm

almost 400fr-lb torque. holy ****tzle.

FPred is a bad *** **** turbo.



Last edited by vboy425; Aug 14, 2008 at 06:05 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:13 PM
  #161  
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^WOW. As I expected, the Red is a consistently impressive turbo on 2.3 engines.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 07:47 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by vboy425
here we go.
Evo IX
2.3l with Built head.
Turbo back, no cat.
Cossie cams
K&N drop in filter.
ported exhaust manifold
24psi

full boost about 3500rpm

almost 400fr-lb torque. holy ****tzle.

FPred is a bad *** **** turbo.


Fuel type?
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 08:09 PM
  #163  
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From: Socal
91 pisstane
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 02:19 AM
  #164  
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From: Spec Ops
here's the op dynograph before tires started to slip on the dyno.

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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 06:41 AM
  #165  
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From: McKinney TX
If that car has a factory airbox (assumed from the comment 'drop-in K&N') check logs for a sharp drop in baro at 7K. If so drill some 1" holes in the airbox lid. The factory boys are smart and have 2 power-limiting engine savers- carefully calculated inlet area to airbox, and the factory BCS that closes the vent at ~25 PSI.
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