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False knock, stock ecu, built motor

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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 04:11 PM
  #16  
DS-03evo's Avatar
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I have a fluidamper that will not fix the problem it you!

You will have to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor somehow, either mechanically or electrically.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 04:24 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DS-03evo
I have a fluidamper that will not fix the problem it you!

You will have to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor somehow, either mechanically or electrically.
That may be your experience, but others have different experiences.

He should try it and see what happens
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:56 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
Well, it might help fix the problem. At less than $300, it's probably an inexpensive idea to try since IMHO the upside to fixing that issue is huge.

There are a few people with built motors running these who are able to use the stock ECU because it eliminates a lot of the vibration.

I know whan I do my stroker that I will have one of these put in.
I have a fluidampr but I still get alot of false knocks.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 09:08 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ecuflasher
I have a fluidampr but I still get alot of false knocks.
Guys, I didn't say the thing was a panacea...I just said it's helped some people combat the problem.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 01:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
$300 < $1000+



Yes, the AEM can remedy things but you're better off trying the damper first...especially since an AEM would require a new tune
Understood, but since the $300 (+install) investment isn't a guaranteed fix, it's not as clear cut of a decision, because 300 < $1000+ < 300 + 1000+



l8r)
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
That may be your experience, but others have different experiences.

He should try it and see what happens
True, it worth a try i guess.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:35 AM
  #22  
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To everyone that is seeing major false knock counts. What RPM is it happening?
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #23  
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I wonder how much this has to do with the engine build too, and how loose and/or tight the engine was kept to OEM specs. Don't know, just asking the question since some seem to have this problem and others don't.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #24  
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It may be the case, the engine was built pretty damn well, actually it is perfect and no smoke, burnt oil or anything. Very smooth and solid. I am still thinking about using a rheostat to turb down the voltage being reported back to the ECU, but again how useful is the knock control at that point...

my knock is happening from 4500-8k usually, under high loads. This is most likely the cause of taking the balance shaft out more than anything.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 02:56 PM
  #25  
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This happened to two people I know with built motors tring to run on the stock ECU. Both ended up going AEM to solve it.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 03:02 PM
  #26  
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I had the same problem after my engine was built and went with AEM. If you want to keep the stock ecu I have a new fluidamper I never used if you want it send me a offer.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 03:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tvor
It may be the case, the engine was built pretty damn well, actually it is perfect and no smoke, burnt oil or anything.
I would think that no smoke/burnt oil from the engine doesn't necessarily correlate to the specs/tolerances of the engine.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:56 PM
  #28  
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up to the top.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by gamebred26
This happened to two people I know with built motors tring to run on the stock ECU. Both ended up going AEM to solve it.
That's the easy way out.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 05:59 AM
  #30  
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true but if you are building a motor a standalone is the next step.
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