Alright, so after my tune at AMS, chirs let me know that my knock sensor was reading large counts of knock, probably around 25 or so at times(false knock as he was checking plugs and it was not fixed with less timing or more fuel). So after talking with him for a bit I asked him to disable it in the map for a temp fix.

Right, so I have both maps now, and I am trying to see what my options are as far as getting some sort of meaningful knock control back on the car. I got a 2g DSM sensor because i had heard somewhere that they were less sensitive but now it seems that they may be the same sensor.

I have thought about moving the sensor to a less sensitive location or dampening it, but then I have to wonder what the actual usefulness of the KS will become after I start making it less and less sensitive.

So, the question is, what have some of you guys done with Stock ECU and a Built engine that have seen false knock? Any aftermarket sensors or other sensors to test out? Can I dial back the voltage it reports to the ECU with some sort of Rheostat that i can fab up? Advise?

 

I had a false knock problem on my 2.3. I have herd of others having some problems with 2.3 and false knock (it can be a headache!) , but not with a 2.0.

 

What did you do to solve it, short of going to a standalone?

 

Do you have a Fluidampr on your vehicle?

 

nope, sure dont no Balance shaft either

 

With the new motor, have you run both KS (stock and 2g), with the same results?

 

No I haven't put it on there yet, I was going to swap it out this weekend if there was much point in doing it.

 

Well, it might help fix the problem. At less than $300, it's probably an inexpensive idea to try since IMHO the upside to fixing that issue is huge.

There are a few people with built motors running these who are able to use the stock ECU because it eliminates a lot of the vibration.

I know whan I do my stroker that I will have one of these put in.

 

I have a 2.3 with out balance shafts with a fluidamper. As far as i know, i do not have any false knock. I have the Tephra CEL mod

 

It is a pain to get to, I just resently replaced my stock with another stock, because I was getting a KS failure code. What I found was the sensor was lose and I just removed it with my fingers, no tool to remove. Since I purchased a new one, I replaced the old with the new and no more code.
Do you have a tool for that sensor? I made one out of a 27mm deep socket and used a CNC to cut a notch .25"X1.50" for the cable. A 3" to 4" extension is needed to bring the socket out from the brace.
I'm not sure if it will make a difference or not, but it eliminates the possibility.

 

Yeah i have no tool specifically for the sensor, sounds like moving it or even replacing it will be a huge ***** from what you say? Guess I'll see how hard it is when I get under the car.

 

With her hands on your wallet
It's not bad if you have the right tool. Like I said, you just need a 27mm deep socket (1/2" drive) with the notch cut for the cable. There's a p/n from the manual, but Mitsubishi dose not have it in there system, even tho they assigned a p/n
I was able to get my arm over the passenger shaft, after removing the front chassis bar. You'll see when you get under there, it's not a fun job.

 

I had the exact same issues (built 2.0, no BS, Exedy twin, etc.), consistent false knock readings between 3000-4000 RPM. I did not try the fluidamper, even though it's probably worth it to try, instead I switched to an AEM. The difference in overall driveability was huge, plus I gained ~300 RPM spoolup on my 50 trim. If the fluidamper doesn't work, then I'd say it's time for a standalone...

l8r)

 

$300 < $1000+



Yes, the AEM can remedy things but you're better off trying the damper first...especially since an AEM would require a new tune

 

Right and it's my DD so I need emissions... *doh*

might be time to try the fliudampr