Hey guys, I need some help finding good information or a good How To write up on replacing the clutch on a 9MR. I am new to the Evo, many years of Subydome. I bought a used 9MR a few months ago, from what is turning out to be not the most honest of sellers about its condition. I specifically was told the engine and trans was original and the odometer had 7k on it. Pretty much new you would think. Now that I have been under there for all kinds of other little repairs I suspect the Trans was a donor from another car or a wrecked car. Within a couple weeks of driving and changing all the fluids I started driving it harder and tuning, and I started noticing clutch slippage.

I have tried to find any other reason to explain the weird sensation but everyone on the forum is confirming the clutch is gone.

So, busted, with not much cash available, i was trying to find posts on how to do this on this engine layout. I have done clutches on my pickups, but this transverse layout is pretty dense and complex.

Any help, advice or posts you could refer me to is greatly appreciated. I expected to just find zillions of them, but I must be noobing it up in the search or people just always pay to have a shop do it.

I like to wrench stuff on my own to learn and for satisfaction.

Thanks for any help
M

 

evomoto.com... that will give you a pretty good explanation of what you have to do under the tech info tab at the top of the page! There are a few lil tricks you have to do to get the trans off the motor, but its not hard to figure it out! Good luck, n any questions send me a pm.. later

 

http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tec...5e7bac0aa83282

 

Yikes, That is exactly what I was looking for. I am only half way through, but its very detailed. The axles and ancillary parts removal is basically all the same as the suby.

It looks slightly different, so I suspect its a 5MT and not the 6MT. Does anyone know if there is any difference in removal and installation of the unit itself because of that?

Thanks so much. I wasted so much time reading and looking. I guess my web search skills suck.

M

 

The 5-6 speed removal are almost the same...just that the MR tranny is a bit heavier....

From the few MR trannys I have done already, just make sure you remove the shifter assembly from the trans and the rear 2 tranny mount studs...

 

not much difference in the 5 and 6 spd removal.to make ur job easier i would recommend pulling of the acd linee so u can take a long extenxhion and brake the bolt behind the line on the tcase. bleading the acd takes litterally 5 minutes and saves u an hour of trying to back out that bold behind it.. just my suggestion... its pretty long but way easier to just remove acd line. take off rear tranny mount bracker. i think the hardest part for me was breaking the thro out bearing away from the pressure plate. chissel and hammer work great.. i just did this so pm me if u have any problems....

 

Thanks for the details and feedback. I am doing my clutch and flywheel shopping now. I see lots of folks with the ACT HDSS. Any particular comments (I know there are lots of biased posts) that is current or scientific/logical.

My power plans are free breathing, self tuned, stock turbo, stock injectors, light track duty. No real drag racing anymore. At least for the first couple of years as I learn more about the car.

I would like a good choice that can hold the power ~300WHP, but isn't going to kill my knee everytime I need to shift the 6 speed. (I have a slightly bum knee from injury).

M

 

I have been working on the clutch job for a few nights now, and come across some hurdles here and there. I will post a final write up to supplement info for the MR when done.

Currently I have the tranny separated from the block, but can't get it out of the car. The shift linkages are in the way, and I can't seem to get the motor any farther forward or lower. The Tranny is lose and I can wiggle and lift it all over, but it just can't fit out.

Did any of you that did the MR 6MT need to remove the shift linkages, and if I do that, how hard is it to get them back in properly (so the gears are where they are supposed to be later!)

Thanks

Mike

 

I just finished the install of an ACT HDSS clutch, Gruppe S lightened flywheel, and clutch line. It was a pretty big job, but doable. I actually think the real rub is how much more difficult it is for the MR than the GSR (5MT). The shifter linkage for one on the 6MT is significantly bigger, or more bulky, which causes a big egress problem trying to get the tranny in and out without damaging the linkage.

Things I learned:

The axles required a surprising amount of force to pop off of the half shafts. The amount that seemed like it was going to break the green casing. But, it didn't and they finally gave way.

I should have come up with a bolt and washer combo to thread through the bango fitting for the ACD hydrolic fluid. I used a rubber glove and several zip ties, and it just kept leaking. All over the garage and me, but worst of all inside of the cross member somehow. There are constant leaks even still after blasting out the inside of the cross member with the compressor and other tricks.

Some folks say leave the ACD hydro line connected and slowly back out the long case bolt moving the Tcase bit by bit. Doing that from my experience looks like it would be impossible. Also the amount of wrestling it took to get the Tcase back on the Tranny later tells me having the line attached wouldn't have been good.

The Tcase was a PITA to keep out of the way, wedged several times between the block and cross member, and then was a PITA to slide back on the tranny. Prepare your steps for this well. My suggestion is to have a smaller and nimble jack ready for just the Tcase. Also, I did not remove the rear shaft, but propped it up to help keep the Tcase in the correct orientation. Said differently. I propped it up so the shaft wouldn't pull on the tcase while I was trying to manipulate it onto the tranny.

Getting the Tranny onto the block was rough. I suggest what later became the method for me after hours of floundering. Use the center thread in the case, for the MR at least, and put a big spare bolt in there. Then a nylong strap or chain if you have it. If you have a engine hoist you can now balance the tranny around to find your cars best in and out wiggle. I don't, but I used a long 2 by 4 and my 73 year old pops. I leveraged the 2by4 off of the top of the strut with a small piece of scrap wood under the long 2by4 to distribute the weight. That allowed me to easily lift the tranny and my pop wiggled and nugged until the pins were lined up.

I also took the radiator out. Now this was likely not necessary, but a shop told me to do it. Since it is very easy (just potentially messy) it was probably a good idea. I did at times yank on the motor forward to make clearance for the Tcase manipulation.

I replaced the clutch line, but learned that the restrictor is in the slave body and not the line. Should have done that before all the bleeding I did. Also the line I got came with a banjo bolt that is way too long. Later I was told, Oh yeah, use the stock one. So make sure and check the bolts of aftermarket stuff you buy. Don't trust that anyone actually knows what they are talking about. That thing about measure 3 times and cut once. Check all the bolts your replace, especially the cleanliness of the threads. A simple jewelry repair eye piece works great.

I used placed the rear on ramps, and the front on jackstands to level out the car. Worked great. This helps with getting the engine forward when you need it.

I also used a dozen or so mini sandwich baggies and some masking tape to label them. This for all the grouping of bolts and little brackets. This meant I didn't have to remember later where what bolt went.

Take your time and take breaks. I am pretty good about organization, but towards the end just wanted to finish and started getting sloppy. I test drove without having properly fastened the lugs. Just finger tight. I was too tired and my brain was exhausted and got stupid in the excitement to test drive late at night. Take your time and double check everything, before you test drive.

Its totally doable in a garage, at home, but only if you can leave the car. I completed the work in 2 weeks on and off after work and some on weekends. First time however its not a weekend project. It will take more than that. Doing it again, I think I could probably knock it out in a weekend.

The evomoto.com site was key. Big props to them.

Big thanks to 06ravenmr and slovo for answering all my PMs. If anyone is doing this shoot me any question and I will gladly try to help out.

M