Getting studdering at peak boost
So I had the vaccum leak, because the person that own the vehicle before me let the "T" for the boost gauge in the lines, but removed the boost gauge. I discovered this when installing a boost gauge of my own, so I replaced the T with a new one and intalled the gauge. My issue is, right after doing this my car seems to Studder really bad at peak boost (17-20psi), and it typically happens in 3rd gear at 4000rpm to 6000rpm. Every time the car studders the boost drops about 5psi instantly and back up again. The car seems to pull a bit stronger now sense plugging the vaccum leak. I dont have a Tune or a upgrade fuel pump yet so I'm wondering if that might be it. Thanks for the help guys!
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Well you should not have ANY of those mods without a tune and should not have that intake nor that BOV at ALL (even with a tune). So, it's possible that you have issues other than spark, but this sounds like classic spark blowout. You don't need 8s...just regular NGK BPR7ES gapped to .026. Your WHP is nowhere near 320-350 either, so I wouldn't put that in your sig. You may have 300whp...but probably closer to 280 untuned.
Now that I pay closer attention, that is a terrible combination of mods. You should really take care of that and should not be driving around untuned - that is very poor decision-making, imo.
Now that I pay closer attention, that is a terrible combination of mods. You should really take care of that and should not be driving around untuned - that is very poor decision-making, imo.
Well you should not have ANY of those mods without a tune and should not have that intake nor that BOV at ALL (even with a tune). So, it's possible that you have issues other than spark, but this sounds like classic spark blowout. You don't need 8s...just regular NGK BPR7ES gapped to .026. Your WHP is nowhere near 320-350 either, so I wouldn't put that in your sig. You may have 300whp...but probably closer to 280 untuned.
Now that I pay closer attention, that is a terrible combination of mods. You should really take care of that and should not be driving around untuned - that is very poor decision-making, imo.
Now that I pay closer attention, that is a terrible combination of mods. You should really take care of that and should not be driving around untuned - that is very poor decision-making, imo.
But this is how I bought my car off the lot. It had only a intake and bov according to the dealer. After buying the car and learning more about it (Taking stuff appart) I discovered all this other stuff. So far I have changed anything on the car, but im saving up to have a lot of stuff done to it.
Do you have any suggestion on what I should do first? It would be alot of help!
the bov shouldnt stop it from running fine tho just idle issues he should be ok at WOT but you do have cams without a tune is bad i would start with the plugs thenmove onto the pump but you need a tune buddy
The car seems to Idle fine, for having cams, so I'm wondering if it does have a tune for the cams, but cant confirm that. I found out that WORKS did install the cams but dont know if they did a tune for it. I hate buying used cars.
Oh, in that case, I'm sure it has been tuned. Why do you say it hasn't been tuned? To have all those mods, especially cams, it would make sense that they also had a Works flash (p2 maybe?). Have you checked the ROM to ensure it has not been changed from stock?
Anyway, I gave you my suggestion on what you should do first. Get brand new NGK BPR7ES, gap to .026, and put them in. If that doesn't work, we'll need more specific details on what is happening and when (rpm, boost, gear, etc). Another easy test after plugs is to swap coils/wires with another local Evo.
Anyway, I gave you my suggestion on what you should do first. Get brand new NGK BPR7ES, gap to .026, and put them in. If that doesn't work, we'll need more specific details on what is happening and when (rpm, boost, gear, etc). Another easy test after plugs is to swap coils/wires with another local Evo.


