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Biiiig issue - stripped bolt in exhaust manifold (tried searching already)

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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:16 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy Biiiig issue - stripped bolt in exhaust manifold (tried searching already)

Hey guys, I've got a rather large issue...

I drilled a hole into the exhaust manifold to insert the screw for my EGT gauge. Unfortunately, I second guessed myself screwing the damn thing in and went too far; now I have somehow either stripped the screw or the threads on the manifold. I've tried everything i can think of but I just cannot get the thing out.

So my question is this: What is the best solution for this?

Best I can figure, i've got a few options. I can either weld the screw into place where it is now and just hope for the best. I do not have any welding equipment or any experience so i suppose i've got to find some kind soul to come to my home and fix this.

I could somehow drill through this screw and nudge it out, or buy some sort of extractor kit, but then i've got to order this screw again.

My other concern is that it's the threads on the manifold that i created that are stripped. in that case what is the best option?

My brother suggested using JB weld on it for a temporary fix but from what I have read in the past that is just going to waste two hours of my life that i'll never get back.

I am afraid I'm in a bit over my head, please help

Dunno if this helps but here:

Last edited by MizzCovert; Sep 14, 2008 at 02:32 PM. Reason: add pic
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 03:28 PM
  #2  
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try an easy out or possibly a helicoil, although i dont know how the latter would hold up against that kind of heat.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 03:35 PM
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You really shouldn't be drilling those holes with the manifold on the car. The chips must pass by the turbine wheel now. A trick is to drill the hole with the engine running, that way the gases push the chips out at you.

If its in their and not coming out whats the problem? Depending on the material of the fitting it was/is going to "weld" to the manifold anyway over time. If you were to get the assembly welded its your call as to whether or not this will distort how the EGT probe mates to your fitting. It probably wouldn't hurt it and even if it did it looks like it is secured on their with a cap so you could get a reamer to hone it to the proper size. Your luck though its probably metric.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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I have the same problem, JB Weld will NOT stand up to the heat of the manifold. Trust me I've tried it. I would just finish the install and drive it to your nearest exhaust shop and have it welded on. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. Its really not that big of a deal as long as it is where you want it.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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take it to someone who welds, have them weld it up, then pay them to tap another part of the manifold for the gauge.

or buy another exhaust manifold.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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thanks guys for your info; we're having our mechanic friend come out and weld it so that it will stay in there.

dan l - we did have the car on when we drilled; and Jesus if you haven't heart that awful noise of a hole in the manifold i do not recommend it. the problem is that while it is in there and we cannot actually remove it from the manifold we could twist it around and move it up and down to an extent. We actually moved it into a position where we don't believe it is leaking now so it's good until we can get it welded.

Thanks again guys ^_^
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Sorry, i thought I saw wet oil in the picture, like you were drilling on a cold piece.

At any rate, when drilling something fine threaded onto something cast like this always drill undersize with numbered bits. Since a hot manifold expands it would probably be wise to wait till it cools, then tap the threads. Also, depending on how fine the threads are, I would probably be doing my final chase with a reamer to make a perfectly round hole. Drillbits actually make triangular holes. Do a light champher with a hand tool and tap it with a good tap handle and plenty of heavy duty lubricant.

In the end though, its probably better just to make it permanent. Hit it with the heavy drillbits and brute force then just have it welded on LOL.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Is it loose in there? What happen was when you tapped the hole it probably wasn't perfectly strait. When you threaded in the EGT probe it either cross threaded or stripped. I did the same exact same thing on my Defi. I had to wiggle out the ruined probe then retap the manifold. Its highly unlikely you ruined the manifold. I would just buy another NPT adapter and make sure to be careful.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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just buy another manifold...you can get one for less than $100 and no worries
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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With the problems I have I was expected a lot bigger problem than this. Guess I'm connditioned to think a biiiiig problem is like a hole in the block or something. Anyway, good advise up there ^. You shouldn't have any problems.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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Drill the hole larger to support a THREAD INSERT with an ID thread the same as the sensor bung..DO NOT use a helia coil here..
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:17 AM
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When I was removing the EGT probe from my manifold, I stripped the threads on the probe and the manifold. The EGT gauge and sensor I was selling so I had to buy a new probe fitting. I re-tapped the manifold and just used a plug. But the plug always bothered me so I bought a ported/coated manifold to replace it.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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I recently had a similar problem when removing my EGT sensor so that I could send it back to the manufacturer for a replacement under warranty. While removing the sensor the exhaust manifold was stripped. I re tapped the threads and found a bolt to use for a plug. I used anti-sieze compound on the bolt and after running the car for a couple of minutes I could see smoke coming from around the bolt. A couple of questions, if anyone can help.

Is this just the anti-sieze compound burning off or an exhaust leak?

If this is a small exhaust leak is it alright to drive the car still, not my DD so if I can't no big deal?

When I recieve the new probe, will the use of lock tite prevent any future leaks or will I have to get the probe welded in?

My only concern with welding is that this is a PPI swain tech coated manifold, so I would really like to try to keep from welding if possible because that will likely damage the swain tech coating.

Thanks for the help.
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