Weird humming/howling starting at 3k rpm's
Weird humming/howling starting at 3k rpm's
Hey everone, not a big poster here, im more of a reader but i have an issue with the car (03 Evo)
i recently had the timming belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, and cams changed out yesterday. (73k on the originals)
both the belts were gates racing belts, and the cams were kelford 272's.
Whenever i hit 3k rpms all the way to redline (not even flooring it) it hums very loud, the timing belt seems a BIT tight, but nothing that should make this noise. what do you guys think?
thanks!!
i recently had the timming belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, and cams changed out yesterday. (73k on the originals)
both the belts were gates racing belts, and the cams were kelford 272's.
Whenever i hit 3k rpms all the way to redline (not even flooring it) it hums very loud, the timing belt seems a BIT tight, but nothing that should make this noise. what do you guys think?
thanks!!
There is a 14mm plug right next to the bottom of the o2 housing toward the passenger side where you stick a screw driver in it and turn the oil pump till its in time and the screwdriver can go in all the way. Don't take it out until you complete the belt install.
Also before installing the belts make sure to loosen up the left hand side tensioner, or towards the back of the car, for the valve cover belt it makes the install much easier.
As for the howling the problem i had was a belt was on too tight making the noise. I've also been told you should put the belt on so the lettering on it is readable not upside down while facing the motor.
The biggest tip for getting the timing belt on correctly with everything in perfect time was to follow the service manual's steps on how you should put the belts on.
Make sure everything is in time before beginning.
Balancer:
Start by looping the belt around the small balancer pulley keeping all the slack out of the tension side, which is the side to the right while facing it, and wrap it around the big crank pulley. This way all the slack can be taken up by the tensioner. Put the tensioner on and tension the belt so the belt can be depressed 1/4" on the tension side with about 22lbs of force.
Valve belt:
Start by looping the belt around the crank and oil pump pulley.
At this point i used a pair of vice grips to keep the belt on the crank pulley since it was just me doing it. If you do use something like this make sure to use very little pressure as not to damage the belt.
Next run the belt over the idler, the one on the right or towards the front of the car, and then over the exhaust pulley. Use an open end wrench 17mm to move the pulley into time when placing the belt on it.
At this point take a zip tie and strap the exhaust pulley to the belt. Do the same when you put the belt over the intake pulley. Finally loop the belt over the tensioner pulley.
After this its a matter of putting the hydraulic tensioner back on, using the tensioner tool to compress it a little to take out the pin holding it back if you read the instruction book. I don't have a fancy tool for tensioning the tensioner pulley so i used a large flat screw driver to push the pulley over until the slack was gone but not super tight. I had a buddy hold the screw driver for me so I could tighten the 14mm bolt of the pulley locking it in place and released the hydraulic tensioner by removing the tensioner tool. I allowed the hydraulic tensioner to do its job and apply the right tension.
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