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Prototyping 8MR UICP: Looking for input

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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #16  
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From: Dirty Jerz
Originally Posted by SWOLN
Make one with a "no battery option( battery in the trunk)", and make it so that there is no right angle at the throttle body.
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 10:25 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SWOLN
Make one with a "no battery option( battery in the trunk)", and make it so that there is no right angle at the throttle body.
That 90 into the TB is pretty hideous. I'm working some designs around that, but it is probably going to take quite a while to get wrapped up. I know that it looks like your lower intestine right now, but there's a ton of CFD work left to go before knowing if these geometries will work well.

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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 10:36 AM
  #18  
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From: In the Florida Swamps
Maybe just swing the tubing out in a gradual arc from the TB to where it enters right of the radiator.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 12:49 PM
  #19  
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I wasn't super happy with how that first intake pipe merged the recirc, so we re-did it and it actually made a huge difference with improving the recirc.

I also didn't like how low the pipe sat so close to that nub on the radiator elbow, so the pipe was redone to bring that up.

We also did the lower pipes too, all in 2.5" and the car pulls harder up at the higher rpms. But I need to get it on the dyno to really know what the before and after effects are.

Here's some updated pics:





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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #20  
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From: Laurel, MD
Synapse - one suggestion. Eliminate the 45 degree bend in your UICP at the FMIC. That 45 degree bend works for the OEM FMIC and some aftermarket IC but a lot of aftermarket FMICs require the UICP to be straight like the OEM UICP.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 01:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by shadow1
straight like the OEM UICP.
I'm lost on this one? Stock points up, it is only on the Evo 6 and older where it goes in straight.

What about weld beads? Anyone that is a fan of good fabrication, like I am, loves to see a well laid out weld bead. Especially on Aluminum it shows talent. But the average Joe tends to hate "seams." So people grind them off. To ground, or not to ground welds?
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 02:00 PM
  #22  
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Ditch the massive battery.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 02:57 PM
  #23  
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i would like a no battery option and i would need a straight connector because i use the aps fmic. finding a solution for the 90 degree bend would be nice too.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 03:22 PM
  #24  
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When you use the APS, are you just rotating the stock elbow 90 degrees so that it goes onto the APS dead on?
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 04:05 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Synapse
When you use the APS, are you just rotating the stock elbow 90 degrees so that it goes onto the APS dead on?
no, the aps endtanks are 3". i use a straight reducer to go onto the stock UCIP
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 07:19 PM
  #26  
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in all honesty synapse I would make a basic kit for the evo 7/8/9 small battery kit and all like you are looking for. But I would probably focus more of my attention towards the Evo X since that is the what alot of the new owners are buying. The reason for this is yeah there are some stock 8 and 9's around but most already have a intercooler kit or just piping. So might be worth the time more for the evo X just my opinion-JOEYD
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 10:48 PM
  #27  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by redboosted05
So might be worth the time more for the evo X just my opinion-JOEYD


I'm totally on the same page as you on this one. We're eventually headed for where the DSM/Eclipse customers are today. The MR is a design excersise really at this point since the car is in the shop already. We're tooling up for the X on Monday. We just did a bolt-on kit on the 08 WRX today using the stock top mount.

Here's the thing, our BOV is an easy bolt-on to the 7/8/9/X and the 08 WRX. Just the bov, no pipes, nothing, it is an easy bolt-on. But what we're finding is that we start to get into trouble when people want to upgrade and buy piping kits that are already out there and tooled up for someone else's BOV. And people start to worry about whether or not our product will clear. So, we'll just do a small run of product that will be designed for our components. Because in the end, I'd rather see our fabricator dealers making their own kits that use our components. But to those that won't tool up for our stuff, well then, it is fair game to make sure we've got something to offer the customer.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:11 AM
  #28  
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From: Buckley, Wa.
Originally Posted by jid2@[BINARY]
Ditch the massive battery.
Don't worry i am going to fix that soon enough. about to order a slim battery.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 05:29 AM
  #29  
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I have the ETS stock battery piping and intake. The Synchronic BOV from what I can see will not fit since the ETS piping relocates the BOV more under the radiator hose. Given the size and shape of the Synchronic, I'm pretty sure it will not fit.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:29 AM
  #30  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by shadow1
I have the ETS stock battery piping and intake. The Synchronic BOV from what I can see will not fit since the ETS piping relocates the BOV more under the radiator hose. Given the size and shape of the Synchronic, I'm pretty sure it will not fit.
Thanks for chiming in. This is exactly why we're doing this kit.
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