Amsoil vs. Mobil 1
Jan 1, 2011, 04:35 PM
#31
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok. and amsoil says their filters are good for 25k miles? is this true? i've always just ran mobil 1 with OEM filters and changed both every 3k miles. I'm a little hesitant to believe the oil can be ran over double the mileage and the filter is good for over 2 years of driving for me
Jan 1, 2011, 06:41 PM
#32
ok. and amsoil says their filters are good for 25k miles? is this true? i've always just ran mobil 1 with OEM filters and changed both every 3k miles. I'm a little hesitant to believe the oil can be ran over double the mileage and the filter is good for over 2 years of driving for me
However the 25k interval can only be used in non modified cars , model cars don't go over 12k
Jan 7, 2011, 01:54 PM
#37
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: houston
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow... w/ ALL the available oil information out there this is being questioned??
Mobil 1 and every other off the shelf synthetic oil doesnt provide bearing protection via phosphorus/zinc additives anymore. They eliminated it to preserve catalysts for emmissions. Stock cars im sure are fine... but i wouldnt run ANY turbocharged car w/out an oil that is fortified w/ zinc/phos to protect the rod/main bearings, not to mention the turbo bearings.
Amsoil Dominator 20w50 has them... so does Brad Penn 20w50... Valvoline 20w50 VR1 race oil... there are lighter weights in their line ups as well. But any motor doubling their output or more, should run a 50.
There is a nice chart/list of oils that contain phos/zinc and their quantities on ForcedPerformance's website.
That mobil 1 10w30 that your oil cap says to use?? IMO.. thats a hell to the no...
Mobil 1 and every other off the shelf synthetic oil doesnt provide bearing protection via phosphorus/zinc additives anymore. They eliminated it to preserve catalysts for emmissions. Stock cars im sure are fine... but i wouldnt run ANY turbocharged car w/out an oil that is fortified w/ zinc/phos to protect the rod/main bearings, not to mention the turbo bearings.
Amsoil Dominator 20w50 has them... so does Brad Penn 20w50... Valvoline 20w50 VR1 race oil... there are lighter weights in their line ups as well. But any motor doubling their output or more, should run a 50.
There is a nice chart/list of oils that contain phos/zinc and their quantities on ForcedPerformance's website.
That mobil 1 10w30 that your oil cap says to use?? IMO.. thats a hell to the no...
Last edited by TakaseEVOIXSE; Jan 7, 2011 at 01:56 PM.
Jan 7, 2011, 06:45 PM
#39
Listen to Forced Performance....they know what they are talking about:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Bottom line is, if you are making big power, DON'T USE MOBIL 1. If you are making stock power or close to it, its OK (maybe). They know this because of how many exploded turbo's that are sent their way because of inferior motor oil.
20w50 racing synethetic oil is what everyone should really be using. I've heard countless of horror stories of really expensive engines completely RUINED because of mobil 1 use (bearing failure), and these engines were assembled by VERY knowledgable people. The problem is that Mobil 1 just can't handle the load in the bearings at higher power levels encountered in engines that are producing ridiculous power per displacement (i.e. 4G63), and mobil 1 doesn't like being overheated, once the oil gets really hot, it loses all of its lubricating ability and properties.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Bottom line is, if you are making big power, DON'T USE MOBIL 1. If you are making stock power or close to it, its OK (maybe). They know this because of how many exploded turbo's that are sent their way because of inferior motor oil.
20w50 racing synethetic oil is what everyone should really be using. I've heard countless of horror stories of really expensive engines completely RUINED because of mobil 1 use (bearing failure), and these engines were assembled by VERY knowledgable people. The problem is that Mobil 1 just can't handle the load in the bearings at higher power levels encountered in engines that are producing ridiculous power per displacement (i.e. 4G63), and mobil 1 doesn't like being overheated, once the oil gets really hot, it loses all of its lubricating ability and properties.
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Jan 7, 2011 at 07:00 PM.
Jan 7, 2011, 06:52 PM
#40
sorry for bringing back an old post but I'm lookin at throwing in AmsOil 0w-30 in my e9. recommendation is m1 10w-30... I wouldn't think going to a wider range of oil and a superior synthetic would be a bad idea, but it may be overkill for a 350whp evo. But then again its better safe than sorry. Thoughts?
Jan 7, 2011, 11:18 PM
#42
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jan 7, 2011, 11:31 PM
#43
Evolving Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: US
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a lot of difficulty understanding HOW people on this forum cannot grasp the simplest of concepts when it comes to oil and WHY certain things are the way they are. The entire topic of oil HAS to be the most kicked to death subject on here. Seriously. What Mitsubishi "says" becomes 100% irrelevant the second you start making ANY changes or performance modifications to your Evo. Period. I have a service manual too... You know what I use it for? Torque specs. LoL!
Jan 7, 2011, 11:53 PM
#44
Evolving Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CHICAGO!!!
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think the reason for Mobile 1 being on everything is because of marketing and advertising. Plus it's kind of a monopoly for the automobile industry. Manufactures do not want to go out of their way to spend the extra money for another company. It's all about the lowest bidder, I'm in the Army, the military does the same thing. They pick the cheapest and lowest quality products because of money. And I find it funny when someone says "oh I use Mobil 1 because it's in the manuals and it would void my warranty if I use something else" Yet they still do other modifications to their car that voids the warranty. Last time I checked I voided my warranty 5 years ago when I installed cams, exhaust, and a turbo kit to my car.
Last edited by eldiablo79; Jan 7, 2011 at 11:57 PM.
Jan 8, 2011, 12:20 AM
#45
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a lot of difficulty understanding HOW people on this forum cannot grasp the simplest of concepts when it comes to oil and WHY certain things are the way they are. The entire topic of oil HAS to be the most kicked to death subject on here. Seriously. What Mitsubishi "says" becomes 100% irrelevant the second you start making ANY changes or performance modifications to your Evo. Period. I have a service manual too... You know what I use it for? Torque specs. LoL!