Uhh maybe you don't know what a 'flash' is. But leaning it out on top of other things like tweaking timing and boost is what the reflash does. Rather you go with Works or Vishnu the same ideas are accomplished.

 

I would say that a "flash" is the easy thing to do although it is more expensive. If you know what you are doing, go with the AFC. it is easier and you can adjust it based on weather. I think a wideband and an AFC are the best way to go.

 

Maybe you're experiencing this problem?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=34867

 

get a boost controller, an a/f controller, hks 272 cams, and a turboback exhaust..

say bu-bye to the srt-4!

 

Dude, that sounds like a sarcastic post on an SRT-4 forum.

 

Did I miss something or did everyone else miss something. After 4500 rpm and it feels like power falls off.....hmm......maybe because the stock boost solenoid pulls the boost from 18 psi to about 16 psi in the evo over 5000 rpm. That would sure do it right there. How do you fix it? Manual boost controler. Lock that ***** at 19.5 and drive all day. I would recommend either going through Mach V or Buschur Racing to get one. Both of those shops know how to get power out of the 4G63. They have also both been around for over a decade. Most of the shop owners on here seem to be very inexperienced with that motor. This is not the case with Mach V / BR.

Good luck. BTW, Where you at in TN? I am in West KY right now and I will be in Nashville next weekend.

Josh

 

I experimented with the boost a bit at the dyno, and didn't see NEARLY the power gain from a pound or two of extra boost, compared to what I got by increasing the air/fuel ratio. My car has 50 more horsepower (at the wheels) than it did when I got it. You won't get that from boost alone. (Not even from full exhaust and intake and boost.)

--Dan
Mach V

 

Thats exactly what some people keep misunderstanding.

 

The power droping off at the higher RPM >5k seems to be a combination of factors:

1. Tha A/F ratio is horribly rich above 5K under boost.

2. If you use poor quality fuel/91 oct the ECU starts pulling timming, if you run a good 93oct the power drop off is not as bad. Just compare dyno graphs from places like CA to most every where else, knock retard is very obvious.

3. The boost tappers down rather fast above 5K.

Fixing any one of these three things will give you more top end power, some work better than others. Based on all of the info and testing so far, you can run much leaner than stock with a very good safety margin. You need to know what ratios to use based on the quality of fuel available to you. From the current data mid/low 11's with 93OCT and mid/low 10's on 91OCT. This is just from my observations, obviously there are other considerations when tunning. For example if your significantly increasing air flow (higher boost, big turbo, cams, etc) or advancing the timing you probably want to add more fuel.

Just summing up what's already been said here and throwing in my 2 cents.