Carrillo pro-H beam rods
I have used them in a honda build, great rods. Nascar also uses these type rods in their motors. Carrillo h beams are probably not a rod that has to be questioned, they usually come with carr bolts as well and they are far better than any other rod bolt.
And now that the poetic waxing has been done. . .
- An H-beam rod is inherently weaker than a similar I-beam rod, but the tradeoff is considered to be acceptable by those who are looking for minimum possible mass. An X-beam (e.g. Pauter) is considered to be weaker still, and more susceptible to twist.
- Carrillo, Arrow, Pauter, etc., use a forging process that distorts grain structure around the large end, while Oliver uses a CNC billet process that retains it. The latter retains martensite grain structure, which is generally accepted as stronger and less prone to developing faults.
So what does all this mean? It means that Carrillo's H-beam rod is not the strongest available, contrary to what some here claim. However, since even the 'weaker' X-beam types and such are used in NASCAR, etc., this tells us the following:
- Put an appropriate quality rod in your engine, and you'd never know the difference from one brand to another. If sheer strength is the primary concern, I would consider an I-beam type.
- Subject any rod to sufficient abuse, and you will pay the price. No name in the industry will save you from the resulting carnage.
One more thing - an 800whp Supra is roughly equivalent to a 530whp EVO where the forces of specific output is concerned, and that shouldn't present enough stress to test the limits of any decent aftermarket rod. Even a stock EVO rod should handle that type of power.
- An H-beam rod is inherently weaker than a similar I-beam rod, but the tradeoff is considered to be acceptable by those who are looking for minimum possible mass. An X-beam (e.g. Pauter) is considered to be weaker still, and more susceptible to twist.
- Carrillo, Arrow, Pauter, etc., use a forging process that distorts grain structure around the large end, while Oliver uses a CNC billet process that retains it. The latter retains martensite grain structure, which is generally accepted as stronger and less prone to developing faults.
So what does all this mean? It means that Carrillo's H-beam rod is not the strongest available, contrary to what some here claim. However, since even the 'weaker' X-beam types and such are used in NASCAR, etc., this tells us the following:
- Put an appropriate quality rod in your engine, and you'd never know the difference from one brand to another. If sheer strength is the primary concern, I would consider an I-beam type.
- Subject any rod to sufficient abuse, and you will pay the price. No name in the industry will save you from the resulting carnage.
One more thing - an 800whp Supra is roughly equivalent to a 530whp EVO where the forces of specific output is concerned, and that shouldn't present enough stress to test the limits of any decent aftermarket rod. Even a stock EVO rod should handle that type of power.
Last edited by Ted B; Nov 30, 2008 at 11:14 AM.
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From: Markopoulo, Greece
Thanks for the replys guys.So Ted which one is the strongest in your opinion?I consider the strongests to be the Manley turbo tuff rods but they are 130 grams more than the Carrillos.What effect this extra weight would have?
I think his question was if it was a good rod not if it is the strongest. You where completely right though.
As far as the supra comment stock supra rods can usually handle 800hp no problem. Carillo H Beams with carr bolts is the most commonly used rod in 1300whp++++ supras though.
As far as the supra comment stock supra rods can usually handle 800hp no problem. Carillo H Beams with carr bolts is the most commonly used rod in 1300whp++++ supras though.
The strongest rod is a heavy rod, and therefore your question doesn't really have an answer that does any good for you. Why? Because you neither need nor want the *strongest* possible rod for your application, period. That's like saying you want to go deer hunting, and you want to buy the largest possible rifle, regardless of the cost, weight, or practicality. A set of Crower or Oliver 4340 billet rods will take anything you can throw at them and won't break the bank. And if you abuse them beyond reason, you will be in trouble regardless of whose name is stamped on them, or whose rod bolts you used.
Personally speaking, I try to stick with Oliver rods because I agree with the method of production, and because they tend to bend and not break (the mark of a good rod) when abused to destruction.
But again, you could choose from a dozen different viable rod options and you'd never know the difference.
The Manley H-beams are Chinese forgings. I'm not certain about the others, but wherever it is unclear, I am uninterested. The common tagline for Chinese forgings is "Machined in the USA" or "Finished in the USA". No amount of finishing or machining can fix an aberration in the metallurgy. Again, it's purely a personal consumer decision on my part.
Last edited by Ted B; Nov 30, 2008 at 03:10 PM.
- Carrillo, Arrow, Pauter, etc., use a forging process that distorts grain structure around the large end, while Oliver uses a CNC billet process that retains it. The latter retains martensite grain structure, which is generally accepted as stronger and less prone to developing faults.
I knew that the "distortion" in the grain structure makes the forged rods (and cranks,and etc.) stronger than the billet one.
I read this in a book,where there is an example image that show the increased density of the forged VS the billet.
