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My 4G64 block after machine work *PICS*

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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #16  
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Looks good.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #17  
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Smile Rods???

Originally Posted by SeanC
The block came from a '99 Galant.

Oil squirters help keep the pistons cool which helps reduce thermal stress. What many people don't understand is that as aluminum gets hot, it gets softer (anneals). Over time at temperature, the piston will become softer (weaker) and can potentially fail. Oil squirters help keep the piston temperature down, therefore keeping stregth up!

I will be using the following components:

Brian Crower 102mm billet crank
Brian Crower 6.000" H-beam rods w/ ARP 625 bolts
JE Pistons (custom spec)
ATI Super Damper
ARP Main Studs
AMS/Titan ARP L19 Head Studs
more...

Since I don't plan on drag racing full time and making a large peak power number, I'd rather have more midrange torque for street/road racing. This is one of the reasons why I choose the longer stroke crankshaft.

Sean,

Check your rod dimension, because with that rod, you'd be lowering the pin position in your custom piston instead of raising it which would make your rod stroke ratio worse.
Let's just say, you used the stock style JE stroker piston that moves the pin up 6mm, then you should be running a 6.102 / 155mm Rod and gives you a rod stroke ratio of 1.519. If you called JE and had them make you a stroker piston that shifted the pin up 9mm, which is what I would consider a custom piston and is doable by them, then you would be able to run a 6.2204 / 158mm Rod. This would give you a better rod stroke ratio of 1.549 and allow you to rev the engine higher.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 01:39 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by miragevo
Sean,

Check your rod dimension, because with that rod, you'd be lowering the pin position in your custom piston instead of raising it which would make your rod stroke ratio worse.
Let's just say, you used the stock style JE stroker piston that moves the pin up 6mm, then you should be running a 6.102 / 155mm Rod and gives you a rod stroke ratio of 1.519. If you called JE and had them make you a stroker piston that shifted the pin up 9mm, which is what I would consider a custom piston and is doable by them, then you would be able to run a 6.2204 / 158mm Rod. This would give you a better rod stroke ratio of 1.549 and allow you to rev the engine higher.
I'm not too concerned about the rod to stroke ratio in this case or turning the engine past 7500 RPM.

Regarding the piston compression distance (pin location) if you assume a block height of 9.252", the compression distance of the piston will be 1.244" with 102mm stroke and 6.000" long rod at zero deck. A typical 4G63 stroker piston is around 1.130"...yes, the pin will actually be located lower but this may help the piston design by keeping the wrist pin bore out of the oil ring groove.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 02:10 PM
  #19  
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From: The Ham! Alabama
Looks really good.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
There are other sources of the 2.4...even non mitsu
Yep 4G64 blocks that bolt directly into the Evo 7-8-9's can be found in the following:

Mitsu Eclipse 2000 - 2005
Mitsu Galant 1999 - 2003
Mitsu Montero 2000 - 2003 (not sure on the years)
Chrysler Sebring 2001 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2001- 2005
Hyundai Sonata 1999-2001 (not sure on the years)

However it should be noted that some of the non-mitsu blocks have some small differences (like the oil dipstick tube being located at the front of the block).

Last edited by sonicnofadz; Feb 28, 2010 at 03:27 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:19 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jid2
Sweet. Mind sharing how much the machine work cost? The oil squirters look great.
Here's the pricing for some of the work I had done:

CNC machine block for oil jets: $150
Bore/Hone with torque plate: $206
Machine block for o-ring wire: $150
Install o-ring wire: $93.75
Surface deck true to mains: $150
Crack check block: $30

You may be able to find machine work for cheaper, but you get what you pay for. I am more concerned about the quality than the price. I talked with the guys at LESCO and they said they are willing to lower the price if they could do multiple blocks at once. $150 to CNC the oil jets in the block is very reasonable.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #22  
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Wow I would be interested in doing a build like this too to get a 2.4L build motor... I will be watching your build man
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SeanC
Here's the pricing for some of the work I had done:

CNC machine block for oil jets: $150
Bore/Hone with torque plate: $206
Machine block for o-ring wire: $150
Install o-ring wire: $93.75
Surface deck true to mains: $150
Crack check block: $30

You may be able to find machine work for cheaper, but you get what you pay for. I am more concerned about the quality than the price. I talked with the guys at LESCO and they said they are willing to lower the price if they could do multiple blocks at once. $150 to CNC the oil jets in the block is very reasonable.
So there must be a reason you chose LESCO as opposed to all the options available in LA and San Diego. Do tell
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
So there must be a reason you chose LESCO as opposed to all the options available in LA and San Diego. Do tell
After talking with a few local shops in LA area, I was disappointed with the equipment and tolerances they found acceptable. I had worked with LESCO in the past on other projects so gave them a call. After talking with them about the project, it was clear they were on the same page. Now that the work is done, I'm happy I called.

I'm sure there are other shops that could do the work, but very few if any would spend the time to write a CNC program to add oil squirters to a 4G64 block. Most shops would just do it in a manual mill. The same can be said about the o-ring operation on the deck. Well worth it in my opinion.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 01:30 PM
  #25  
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That makes sense. Even a layman like myself knows the details are what separates the men from the boys. I just wish LESCO was closer
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 02:06 PM
  #26  
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How much does the 4G64 Block weigh? I'd like to calculate the S&H costs of shippping one out.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 04:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by miragevo
How much does the 4G64 Block weigh? I'd like to calculate the S&H costs of shippping one out.
Don't know...I'll weigh it later.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 04:38 PM
  #28  
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What effect to oil pressure will adding your squirters have?
be wary of spun bearings...
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 04:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
Yep 4G64 blocks that bolt direction into the Evo 7-8-9's can be found in the following:

Mitsu Eclipse 2000 - 2005
Mitsu Galant 1999 - 2003
Mitsu Montero 2000 - 2003 (not sure on the years)
Chrysler Sebring 2001 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2001- 2005
Hyundai Sonata 1999-2001 (not sure on the years)

However it should be noted that some of the non-mitsu blocks have some small differences (like the oil dipstick tube being located at the front of the block).

question about blocks is the 99 eclipse spider 2.4 block the same also.motor looks just like the one in my 01 galant.im getting a great deal on a built 2.4 shortblock.it was in a 99 spider.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 4G63DSM
What effect to oil pressure will adding your squirters have?
be wary of spun bearings...
The 4G64 is not much different than a standard 4G63. The squirters should not cause oil starvation to the main bearings if the pump can flow enough oil. The oil squirters also have a valve that only opens after a certain oil pressure. This prevents oil startvation at lower RPM/oil pressure. Since every EVO we all drive has oil squirters with the same oil pump...I think it will be ok. Maybe I'll do a flow test to put this argument to bed.

In addition, I will be checking the clearances on the factory oil pump to make sure it's performing the best it can.
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