chad99evo-

I forgot the whiteline sways I have in the garage right now, good point/reminder.

Hrmm...on motorcycle trackbikes, we always did steel braided lines because the stock rubber ones contributed to fading. Not so w/ the EVO? *scratches head*

I plan to run the stock rotors til they are done, then just buy the blanks everyone talks about and more or less make them disposable but keep good pads and fluid in there.

 

Invest in your self, driver training is your friend

 

Comfortable? yes. Assuming expert drivers, no. Well at least not the 08 M3. I would feel reasonably comfortable running around with them, I have run with an M coupe and plenty of Porshces (GT3s still pound me) and was a tad bit quicker, though thats likely more driver than car. That was on stock tires. By next season I will have another 30whp, NT05 or Z1 SS, and perhaps a BBK (Im lazy) or a set of Endura Coils.

For 800 you will likely need to check out the used stuff for an IC and LICP. If you do buy from ETS (my recommendation), just understand that their piping is steel unless its the polished stainless steel.

 

*yawn* you are 'inneedof' reading the thread my friend.

 

For road racing, don't go with an eBay FMIC. They've proven to be "ok" at best. For road racing, you'll want something to control the heatsoak. So look at the top three: Buschur, AMS or ETS. They all make a great FMIC. I'd just order the matching companies LICP while you're at it.

Since you have a IX, I'd save you money and keep the stock turbo. Cams wouldn't hurt. P&P the stock exhaust manifold. eBay o2 housing has been proven to work VERY well, and then the EPM and JMF dumps are even better, but since you want to be quiet and remain a stock as possible, the dumps may not be a good choice. As far as an exhaust, there are MANY great choices for being quiet. For what I've read on the Forums, the COBB exhaust is decently quiet. Defiantly keep the stock cat or HFC. A drop in or cone filter (with heatshield) will do you some good too. The new Perrin intakes are doing pretty well according to CBRD testing. Up the boost a little too. Minor bolts on like what I just mentioned should put you in the 330-340whp range which will be good enough to hang with the cars you mentioned.

As far as suspension goes, again Megan coil-overs are a good bang-for-buck coil-over. Or keep it a little more stock and go with Swift or GTWORX springs with Bilstein struts, your choice of the MRs or HD's. HD's are a little stiffer. Sway bars would be good too. It's really recommended to do BOTH sway bars at the same time, but having just a rear is ok. You'll have great turn in with just the rear, but you'll have toruble putting power down with the inner rear wheel haning in the air if the sway bar is too tight. You really don't need to get too carried away with suspension mods, the car is great in stock form.

For brakes, good set or pads, rotors and heavy duty fluid should do the trick. Cooling duct kit never hurt anything.

 

The NT01s are a better track tire. But I would still learn on street tires. It will make you a better driver.

Add front are rear sway bars.

Technifit SS lines, about $85 for all 4.

Check the For Sale forums for the AMS or BR FMIC's - good deals pop up there!



Contact KingKyle for the BDCK - he has some of his still. Great price on them.

 

Yeah, no experts with me and my friends either. Thanks for the reference points.

How does a big brake kit help u be lazy? I'm all for being lazy too darnit!

As for $800 for FMIC kit... Buschur has their Race FMIC + LICP for $779 shipped til the 31st.

If I go ETS, I don't mind the steel as long as it does not rust. I figure it would over time?

 

Don't put a cage in a street car. Don't use a harness without a cage. Don't put people in the back if you have a harness bar or cage. Don't drive or ride in a car with a cage without a helmet. Padding will not stop your head from going splat.




What type of bike did you have?

 

I appreciate the advice MitsuJDM, but when I said "Mods that will go on the car in the Spring" those are the actual mods I have already purchased and have waiting in the garage unless otherwise stated, haha.

...so to restate.... yes on the Cobb, yes on cone, no on O2 dump, no on P& P stuff (I guess I have to draw the line somewhere? ), no on Cams (MPG), no on HFC (resonated test pipe), suspension has already been decided on.

 

Good deal CaliMR. I've owned plenty, but at the time of the crash I owned:

2001 Yamaha R6 (track only)

2001 Suzuki SV650 (track only)

1997 Honda ST1100 w/ 77k (1st touring bike)

2003 Honda ST1300 (2nd touring bike I kissed the deer on)


I miss riding big time, but the EVO and some hiking/camping is doing well to fill the void.

 

I am still looking for people's opinions on adding so much weight to the very front of the car vs. the cooling benefit of a good FMIC on a lightly modified DD/trackday car. thx.

 

Very worth it, I have never weighed a stock IC vs an aftermarket one, but assuming the material and general construction is the same or similar, the added size/ volume of the FMIC cant add a huge amount of front weight. Any such weight could be easily offset by a mini battery and the added horsepower from the FMIC.

 

Ahh, I apologize. I guess I can't read

 

nice... i used to have a 01 r6 street bike.. i luved it

 

Getting some good advice in here, but I'd suggest heading over to the MotorSports section for advice from more of the junkies. My advice would be to take the car to some HPDEs stock (save for maybe SS lines/pads/fluid). Learning the car's limits in stock trim is really priceless. After you've done that, I'd focus on suspension. Then after all that I'd start adding power. Good luck!

PS. I see that you're in Norwalk. Spent some time there as I do some work in Darien from time to time. Great downtown!
-Alex@ECS