SS lines aren't as much a performance mod as they are a safety mod. I've seen a few sets of stock rubber lines that have ruptured after tracking. The issues that some had with aftermarket lines have been addressed by the manufacturers and subsequent sets have been revised.

 

Agreed, no winner on the HPDE, but I enjoy modding things, and I'll be honest, I'd love it if I had bench racing bragging rights over my coworkers in their more expensive BMWs. But yeah, in the end we all have to go to work the following Monday, so getting home safe and sound is a priority.

 

I guess a CG lock is not needed to lock you in then, it's just a nice to have?

 

I have one and love it. I wish I would have purchased one for my passengers as they really take a beating. Maybe it would reduce the number of greasy palm prints on the outside skin of my door and roof of my car.

 

I've got a CG Lock that I used briefly in my Evo before getting a cage and harnesses. PM me if you are interested in it.

It will not hold you in the seat like a real harness and race seat, but it's much better than just the stock seat belt. Just don't think of it as a safety device. It only makes you safer in that it allows you to control the car better.

 

Amen. Not driving 100% all of the time goes a long way to solving brake issues, making the stock motor last, etc. And, if you can drive, you'll be faster than virtually everyone else who can't, regardless of what they are driving (short of a true supercar on R comps).

 

-Get a real suspension (i.e. coilovers).
-Get corner balanced
-Install white line's roll center correction kit (for better handling when lowered)
-I'd also switch the rear diff and transfer-case fluids to a synthetic fluid (I use amsoil). The factory fluid doesn't like to be cooked for too long.
-Don't crash and good luck!

As a side note: I just read that you can't afford coilovers...well I would seriously consider not tracking the car. Sway bars will reduce the roll, however your shocks and springs will still be soft and way too compliant. The stock evo suspension in my opinion is way too soft for serious competition on dry asphalt. With the stiffer sway bars you will not roll, but under braking your front end will compress way too much and upon corner exit your rear end will squat way too much. You can definitely drive the car in this way, but expect your lap times to suffer until you get an actual suspension. Also, I have run my Ebay intercooler on backroads for 15-60 minutes at a time going wide open throttle and I had no noticeable knock. I'm absolutely certain that a Buschur, AMS, or whatever real Garrett core will offer better performance, but you could get by on the el cheapo Ebay core. Good luck and have fun!

 

I ran the T.T. series with stock bilsteins with GT Worx. springs..slotted R.B. stock size rotors and R.B. 800 pads.with stainless lines- upgraded fluids..very mild road course tune from CBRD and r-comps from Hankook on stock wheels. At that level of prep the car is more than able to spank a bunch of more exotic cars on the track. Pete

 

Some notes ...

Go ahead and install some bushings while doing the sways/springs ... especially the front roll center kit and perhaps the the steering precision kit from Whiteline. If you want to do this eventually, you'll save labor doing them with the front subframe already dropped. The rear bump steer kit should give more grip in the rear and the differential mounts will keep you from slamming the diff on shifts.

ATE Super Blue is good fluid, but AMSOIL and Motul are better. The only reason to use ATE is for the ease of flushing (blue to gold) as it does have slightly lower heat resistance. Any of the 3 will do well, but why not get the best if you're doing it?

I'd also recommend upgrading the fuel pump if you're already doing this much. I'm pretty much maxing out my pump (100%+) at 21 psi at 7300 RPM. That's way beyond where you should be. I know you wont run this level of boost for a track car, but the extra safety margin is good to have.

It looks like you've got a good build coming up. Enjoy it!

 

I used to use ATE in my trackbike and have cans leftover...hopefully I'll burn through them and move on to the Amsoil....I've caught wind of that stuff in the threads as well.

I rode in SmikeEvo's ride w/out the roll center kit and steering precision kit. I'd have to read up on them and see if they are worth it, but yeah I guess if I'm going to have the car apart, this will be the time to do it, but still not sure. I thought the GTWORX springs with 20mm F and 15mm R drop wdidn't need the roll center kit as it didn't lower the car too much?

So the bushings will stop that big ~THUD~ when u are shifting WOT from gear to gear? (I remember the first time I experienced that, scared the crap out of me, thought I was breaking the car.) Or more so it will just protect the car when shifting hard? Don't those bushings make things noisier in everyday driving?

As for the fuel pump, I wanted to stay away from Injectors and Fuel Pump as I wanted my cake and eat it too...preserve the MPG when daily driving and have it rip ( to the best of the stock fuel system's ability) on the track. With my IX, I take it my injectors or fuel pump will be the limiting factor b4 the turbo or intercooler? I ~really~ don't want to be dumping more fuel when daily driving...Which gives out first, injectors or fuel pump?

If I leave the injectors alone, and just upgrade the fuel pump, will that still help? Then for daily driving I wouldn't be dumping more fuel with the street tune, just on the track I'd run the stock injectors at a higher duty cycle and bigger fuel pump.

I know little about tuning and fuel system at this point (bought ECUFlash, EVOSCAN and LC1, but haven't used them yet)

Thx,

 

sonicnofadz- it's not that I can't afford coilovers, it's that I already purchased HD Bilsteins, GTWORX Springs and whiteline front and rear sways. After speaking w/ friends who HDPE more than I, and a test ride, I am confident that will suit my needs, but thank you for your opinion.

I am researching hard core for an FMIC....I want a garret core, big time.

 

I've been debating whether to switch to Castol SRF this season. I've used only ATE gold so far (hate the way the blue stains the resevoir) and haven't had any problems, but I also pull through a 1/2 can of fluid every track day. It would be really nice to put the SRF in at the beginning of the season and just let it be for the season. My understanding is that all of the other fluids have low enough wet boiling points that you really need to bleed/change the fluid periodically.

 

Realistically, an adjustable coilover suspension with fairly stiff rates (10K+), good tires and an aggressive alignment will make your car faster on the track than adding HP. I'd rather have 300 whp and a set of Megan track colivers than 500 whp with lowering springs. Just look at time attack results and you'll see that the big HP cars often aren't the fastest.

 

A lot of the NE tracks are pretty bumpy so some give in the springs rates is a good thing for me I believe for complaince. I also chose the springs and bilsteins over the megans due to durability, quietness, less adjustments to screw my newbie self up at the track, and bigger fluid resevoir. We'll see how it works out. They are sitting in m garage just staring at me. haha.

 

Does anyone flip their " front camber bolts over will get you a tick over -2. maybe -2.2. really?"