Help me mod my car for trackdays (road courses)
You have Conn.Auto.Racing.Teams=C.A.R.T. in your hood..E.M.R.A. in NY and PDA in NJ and there are more...all those guys run at all our "local" tracks. You will fit into one of their car classes no problems regardless of your mods, But if your car is modded to a level that makes it rough for you to drive..you may not have as much fun out there..and you might get frustrated that a "slower" car will run faster than you do..and then you will find it even harder to learn how to drive faster...But the bottom line is get out there!!!! that is the best way...everybody here who has gone tracking..loves it..can't wait to do it.. and thats when you learn the quickest. The best Mod. is still you..the driver! Pete
Nice bike collection you had
I was forced to retire my 900RR after and incident lol, bought the Evo to fill the void. Now I am getting back into it with sumos. I just ride around on one wheel really slow and try to avoid anything too stupid
I was forced to retire my 900RR after and incident lol, bought the Evo to fill the void. Now I am getting back into it with sumos. I just ride around on one wheel really slow and try to avoid anything too stupid
Just a few comments.....
1. SS lines aren't any better than stock rubber lines. They may protect the braking system from debris but performance is going to be identical. It should also be noted that I've seen more problems with aftermarket SS lines than OEM factory lines. Lose the factory fluid keep the factory lines.
2. For me, at 20-22 psi, I never found the stock FMIC to heat soak. Even on hot days the hot side would be warm and cold side would be cool. Running the stock turbo in the low 20s isn't going to turn it into a mini flamethrower. I upgraded to the ETS 3" for appearance purposes only and noticed no difference. At 80-100mph there is ample airflow to cool the stocker.
3. I still do not recommend an open element air filter. Sucking in hot engine bay temps is not better than the high pressure cold air snorkle force feeding the stock box. Though conical air filters show some gains (minimal) on a dyno with the hood open and a monster fan blowing on it I'm pretty sure those gains are less than actual during a 30 minute lapping session.
4. Buying cams for a stock turbo EVO9 is a waste of money. The stock mivec cams are comparable to HKS 272 EVO8 cams. They flow plenty for the stock snail.
5. The stock LICP is hardly a restriction on the stock turbo. We have yet to see a non-vendor dyno that shows any gain at all form an aftermarket LICP. I really don't see how you can claim the LICP as a restriction when the turbo outlet pipe is actually smaller. Furthermore, the stock LICP offers excellent mount points and wont be blowing off in the middle of your sessions.
6. An uncorked exhaust and tune will provide plenty of power. I was trapping 116mph with only those mods. I haven't seen much better with all the other bolt ons which to me speaks volumes. What more power... and a splash of race gas (highly recommended for safety).
7. (Other than driver) The three things that really matter.... Brakes, Tires, and Alignment. The grip of the contact patch affects everything. Take off to turn in to brake all rely on about 4 dollar bill sized contact patches. Find a place that will give you the alignment you ask for and do it right. Tires... lapping on your daily driver tires will catch up to you. Its better to have an extra set of rims and tires for track days. Multiple reason for this other than the obvious wear and downtime required for flip flopping you may want a much stiffer side wall and much stickier compound for the track. It is true that learning on street tires is better but driving on a race rubber hybrid (like NT01s) will enhance all aspects of the drive. If you request an instructor for your first couple HPDEs having sticky tires will not affect your learing curve. Do not cheap out on brakes get a dedicated track pad. Not having enough power won't kill you ... not having enough stopping power very well could.
7. The stock suspension is excellent. It may feel slow and sloppy but your lap times will be faster than you expect. Upgrades will help make the car easier to drive but I don't think the results will be much different until you really testing the limites and start throwing the car around.
1. SS lines aren't any better than stock rubber lines. They may protect the braking system from debris but performance is going to be identical. It should also be noted that I've seen more problems with aftermarket SS lines than OEM factory lines. Lose the factory fluid keep the factory lines.
2. For me, at 20-22 psi, I never found the stock FMIC to heat soak. Even on hot days the hot side would be warm and cold side would be cool. Running the stock turbo in the low 20s isn't going to turn it into a mini flamethrower. I upgraded to the ETS 3" for appearance purposes only and noticed no difference. At 80-100mph there is ample airflow to cool the stocker.
3. I still do not recommend an open element air filter. Sucking in hot engine bay temps is not better than the high pressure cold air snorkle force feeding the stock box. Though conical air filters show some gains (minimal) on a dyno with the hood open and a monster fan blowing on it I'm pretty sure those gains are less than actual during a 30 minute lapping session.
4. Buying cams for a stock turbo EVO9 is a waste of money. The stock mivec cams are comparable to HKS 272 EVO8 cams. They flow plenty for the stock snail.
5. The stock LICP is hardly a restriction on the stock turbo. We have yet to see a non-vendor dyno that shows any gain at all form an aftermarket LICP. I really don't see how you can claim the LICP as a restriction when the turbo outlet pipe is actually smaller. Furthermore, the stock LICP offers excellent mount points and wont be blowing off in the middle of your sessions.
6. An uncorked exhaust and tune will provide plenty of power. I was trapping 116mph with only those mods. I haven't seen much better with all the other bolt ons which to me speaks volumes. What more power... and a splash of race gas (highly recommended for safety).
7. (Other than driver) The three things that really matter.... Brakes, Tires, and Alignment. The grip of the contact patch affects everything. Take off to turn in to brake all rely on about 4 dollar bill sized contact patches. Find a place that will give you the alignment you ask for and do it right. Tires... lapping on your daily driver tires will catch up to you. Its better to have an extra set of rims and tires for track days. Multiple reason for this other than the obvious wear and downtime required for flip flopping you may want a much stiffer side wall and much stickier compound for the track. It is true that learning on street tires is better but driving on a race rubber hybrid (like NT01s) will enhance all aspects of the drive. If you request an instructor for your first couple HPDEs having sticky tires will not affect your learing curve. Do not cheap out on brakes get a dedicated track pad. Not having enough power won't kill you ... not having enough stopping power very well could.
7. The stock suspension is excellent. It may feel slow and sloppy but your lap times will be faster than you expect. Upgrades will help make the car easier to drive but I don't think the results will be much different until you really testing the limites and start throwing the car around.
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Jeff, lots of good points but only if you assume he's keeping the stock turbo and limiting power (and get stomped by some of those other cars)...with a bigger snail many of those theories go out the window.
The stock turbo should more than meet all of his straight line goals. Race gas is your friend. You can run 25psi and 100 octane all day long without issue. On a road course I don't think any of those cars would hang unless they were fully raced prepped.
I didn't really want to run race gas...how much is it? Do u just have it shipped from online? Do u just road tune for 93, and then run straight 100 octane on the track for detonation protection?
-Alex@ECS
I have an Innovate LC1 installed on the car (improperly by a very local shop, gotta troubleshoot that) as well as evoscan to tune....gotta find the time to learn. 
When is the next time u'll be in the Norwalk area? (congrats on the new shop)
When is the next time u'll be in the Norwalk area? (congrats on the new shop)
Just a few comments.....
1. SS lines aren't any better than stock rubber lines. They may protect the braking system from debris but performance is going to be identical. It should also be noted that I've seen more problems with aftermarket SS lines than OEM factory lines. Lose the factory fluid keep the factory lines.
2. For me, at 20-22 psi, I never found the stock FMIC to heat soak. Even on hot days the hot side would be warm and cold side would be cool. Running the stock turbo in the low 20s isn't going to turn it into a mini flamethrower. I upgraded to the ETS 3" for appearance purposes only and noticed no difference. At 80-100mph there is ample airflow to cool the stocker.
3. I still do not recommend an open element air filter. Sucking in hot engine bay temps is not better than the high pressure cold air snorkle force feeding the stock box. Though conical air filters show some gains (minimal) on a dyno with the hood open and a monster fan blowing on it I'm pretty sure those gains are less than actual during a 30 minute lapping session.
4. Buying cams for a stock turbo EVO9 is a waste of money. The stock mivec cams are comparable to HKS 272 EVO8 cams. They flow plenty for the stock snail.
5. The stock LICP is hardly a restriction on the stock turbo. We have yet to see a non-vendor dyno that shows any gain at all form an aftermarket LICP. I really don't see how you can claim the LICP as a restriction when the turbo outlet pipe is actually smaller. Furthermore, the stock LICP offers excellent mount points and wont be blowing off in the middle of your sessions.
6. An uncorked exhaust and tune will provide plenty of power. I was trapping 116mph with only those mods. I haven't seen much better with all the other bolt ons which to me speaks volumes. What more power... and a splash of race gas (highly recommended for safety).
7. (Other than driver) The three things that really matter.... Brakes, Tires, and Alignment. The grip of the contact patch affects everything. Take off to turn in to brake all rely on about 4 dollar bill sized contact patches. Find a place that will give you the alignment you ask for and do it right. Tires... lapping on your daily driver tires will catch up to you. Its better to have an extra set of rims and tires for track days. Multiple reason for this other than the obvious wear and downtime required for flip flopping you may want a much stiffer side wall and much stickier compound for the track. It is true that learning on street tires is better but driving on a race rubber hybrid (like NT01s) will enhance all aspects of the drive. If you request an instructor for your first couple HPDEs having sticky tires will not affect your learing curve. Do not cheap out on brakes get a dedicated track pad. Not having enough power won't kill you ... not having enough stopping power very well could.
7. The stock suspension is excellent. It may feel slow and sloppy but your lap times will be faster than you expect. Upgrades will help make the car easier to drive but I don't think the results will be much different until you really testing the limites and start throwing the car around.
1. SS lines aren't any better than stock rubber lines. They may protect the braking system from debris but performance is going to be identical. It should also be noted that I've seen more problems with aftermarket SS lines than OEM factory lines. Lose the factory fluid keep the factory lines.
2. For me, at 20-22 psi, I never found the stock FMIC to heat soak. Even on hot days the hot side would be warm and cold side would be cool. Running the stock turbo in the low 20s isn't going to turn it into a mini flamethrower. I upgraded to the ETS 3" for appearance purposes only and noticed no difference. At 80-100mph there is ample airflow to cool the stocker.
3. I still do not recommend an open element air filter. Sucking in hot engine bay temps is not better than the high pressure cold air snorkle force feeding the stock box. Though conical air filters show some gains (minimal) on a dyno with the hood open and a monster fan blowing on it I'm pretty sure those gains are less than actual during a 30 minute lapping session.
4. Buying cams for a stock turbo EVO9 is a waste of money. The stock mivec cams are comparable to HKS 272 EVO8 cams. They flow plenty for the stock snail.
5. The stock LICP is hardly a restriction on the stock turbo. We have yet to see a non-vendor dyno that shows any gain at all form an aftermarket LICP. I really don't see how you can claim the LICP as a restriction when the turbo outlet pipe is actually smaller. Furthermore, the stock LICP offers excellent mount points and wont be blowing off in the middle of your sessions.
6. An uncorked exhaust and tune will provide plenty of power. I was trapping 116mph with only those mods. I haven't seen much better with all the other bolt ons which to me speaks volumes. What more power... and a splash of race gas (highly recommended for safety).
7. (Other than driver) The three things that really matter.... Brakes, Tires, and Alignment. The grip of the contact patch affects everything. Take off to turn in to brake all rely on about 4 dollar bill sized contact patches. Find a place that will give you the alignment you ask for and do it right. Tires... lapping on your daily driver tires will catch up to you. Its better to have an extra set of rims and tires for track days. Multiple reason for this other than the obvious wear and downtime required for flip flopping you may want a much stiffer side wall and much stickier compound for the track. It is true that learning on street tires is better but driving on a race rubber hybrid (like NT01s) will enhance all aspects of the drive. If you request an instructor for your first couple HPDEs having sticky tires will not affect your learing curve. Do not cheap out on brakes get a dedicated track pad. Not having enough power won't kill you ... not having enough stopping power very well could.
7. The stock suspension is excellent. It may feel slow and sloppy but your lap times will be faster than you expect. Upgrades will help make the car easier to drive but I don't think the results will be much different until you really testing the limites and start throwing the car around.
1. The S2000 track guys found the same thing; no real difference.
2. It took about 24-25 psi on the stock turbo before I started to heatsoak the stock FMIC.
3. I disagree with you hear. Track, street, or otherwise I've never noticed any heat-soaking issues for the intake air. Once moving the airflow through the engine bay is very good to keep a fresh, cool, supply available surrounding the cone filter.
4. Bingo; I'm currently contemplating taking my aftermarket cams out and returning to the stockers.
7. I'd suggest at least a rear anti-sway bar upgrade for any Evo that will be tracked. Toss in a good set of performance lowering springs and you'll be set.
^ Noted.
As for race gas.... I've run at least a hundred gallons of 110 leaded (split 50/50 with 93) through my 9 without an issue. I run the 100 octane cocktail whenever I'm racing. Sometimes I run a race gas tune sometimes I keep the pump gas tune and run race gas just to be safe.
I get my 110 leaded turbo blue from the pump. It costs about $5 per gallon. You can buy it at the track to but its normally more expensive ($7). Either way after mixing it the cost is still half of the per gallon price.
As for race gas.... I've run at least a hundred gallons of 110 leaded (split 50/50 with 93) through my 9 without an issue. I run the 100 octane cocktail whenever I'm racing. Sometimes I run a race gas tune sometimes I keep the pump gas tune and run race gas just to be safe.
I get my 110 leaded turbo blue from the pump. It costs about $5 per gallon. You can buy it at the track to but its normally more expensive ($7). Either way after mixing it the cost is still half of the per gallon price.
Evolved Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 697
Likes: 1
From: Mitchigan
new brake lines/aggressive pads, nice brake fluid =worth it brake mods
CG lock is a waste of $$$. Just slide your seat all the way back, snug up the lower part of the belt then pull down hard on the locking mechanism on the top, slide your seat forward and your locked in big time, takes all of about 10 seconds to do.
its funny how people have such a difference of opinion when it comes to this stuff... some say SS lines, others say stock. some say drilled rotors, others say stock. some say GC lock, others say not. just goes to show you that you don't need anything but a good working car to have tons of fun out there.
Like others have said before, aside from making sure you have fresh fluids, enough pad material & plenty of tread on your tires. I would try tracking your car BONE STOCK first. its not a race its, an HPDE. you don't get any prizes for what you do out there.
Like others have said before, aside from making sure you have fresh fluids, enough pad material & plenty of tread on your tires. I would try tracking your car BONE STOCK first. its not a race its, an HPDE. you don't get any prizes for what you do out there.